I don't want to use adaptive brightness. It cranks up the brightness when I wouldn't personally choose to.
Any idea if I can stop it asking if I want to turn it back on every time (or several times per week) when manually increasing the brightness to a high level? It's like it won't take no for an answer.
I'm trying to help a pub that's been (needlessly) struggling with Shaw Direct playback issues on their TVs for years.
Yesterday was particularly bad. There was a storm and their Shaw Direct only worked about 50% of the evening. TV screens kept throwing up weak or no signal errors, and their main background music feed kept stuttering and going silent whenever Shaw Direct errors appeared on the TVs.
So for whatever reason, they're obviously relying on the same flaky satellite service for their music. This makes no sense as they already have 100% stable fibre internet from another company and could be streaming through that instead. Obviously no one on staff or management is particularly tech savvy.
I have a few of questions. Any advice would be appreciated!
Why would a pub in a normal urban area (not remote/rural) choose to rely on satellite in the first place? Am I missing something? I connected to their customer WiFi and got 150 Mbps up/down from their SaskTel fibre service with 5ms ping. It was rock solid all through the storm. They've already got fibre, so why would they use flaky satellite for TV? Why didn't Shaw techs advise them when troubleshooting the flaky service: "Why don't you guys use a regular Shaw DCT from a Shaw coax drop instead? Satellite is much less reliable and should only be a last resort."
Looking at the building from every side (and above using Google Maps), no Shaw Direct dish is visible anywhere. How is that possible? Could it be inside the building?!
I used to be a Shaw TSR myself (long ago) and initially mentioned bypassing splitters when everything ground to a halt during the thunderstorm. They told me they'd already spoken to Shaw multiple times were basically told: "This is satellite, so you'd better get used to it failing when it's cloudy." (I'm paraphrasing but that's pretty much how it went.)
Is there some benefit to Shaw Direct over regular hardwired Shaw TV that I'm missing here? They had excellent coax and fibre options but instead chose the same flaky tech that farms in the middle of nowhere are forced to use. Could this have been cheaper? I would've expected Shaw to steer them away from satellite if it wasn't necessary, right at the beginning.
Any thoughts would be appreciated!
I noticed an old Aironet 3502i on the ceiling of a local restaurant recently. It has an LED sequence that doesn't exactly correspond to anything in the manual.
It's been doing the same thing for months that I'm aware of (and probably years) and is the only AP visible in the entire dining area.
Here's the sequence:
- flashing green (approximately 50 times)
- steady green (approximately 20 seconds)
- steady pale blue. Sort of a teal colour (2 seconds). Edit: I think this is supposed to be WHITE, not blue.
Then it immediately restarts the sequence with flashing green all over again.
Flashing green corresponds to "boot loader status sequence", but that doesn't explain the two seconds of blue before restarting the sequence. There's no mention of that in the manual. (The red LED never illuminates.)
They do have an SSID being broadcast from somewhere (back office use according to staff, not guest WiFi) and aren't aware of any problems, however the staff mention that none of them use it as no one knows what the password is. Everything seems to be hardwired (not using WiFi), including their POS system.
My guess is this old Aironet 3502i was taken out of service a long time ago (EoL since 2016) but was never physically removed, and the flashing green is it getting stuck at "Initializing Ethernet" or something along those lines.
Thoughts?
I'm really struggling to choose what digital piano to buy. Please help me to narrow it down!
The goal is to get something with a good quality sound, good polyphony, 88 full-size weighted keys, and a key action that will (most importantly) allow me to sit down at an acoustic piano and perform easily, with minimal adjustment.
It would probably need graded hammer action and various other features in the key mechanism, as well as features like continous pedaling.
I'm in my early 40s now and haven't played since I had piano lessons back in high school, so it's been more than 20 years but I do know the fundamentals. My goal is to get back into playing in a really serious way.
My budget is fairly flexible. I started off looking at the Yamaha P45 ($600 CAD), then the Yamaha P225 ($1,000 — which I was close to buying and went to check out in a local music store).
The store also had a Yamaha YDP-145 for $1,500 (demo model with $100 discount). They also had a Yamaha YDP-165 ($2,100 CAD).
My budget kept increasing as I kept justifying better and better models to myself.
Then I realized the YDP-165 was the previous model and the current YDP-166 ($2,300 CAD) was much better, for not much more than older model.
Then I looked into Yamaha Clavinovas: CLP-825 ($2,800) are in a different league to the YDP range, with CLP-845 ($4,200) sounding like essentially my dream digital piano.
So my budget has crept up from $600, to entertaining the idea of spending $4,000 in a few months.
I basically want something that will give me the feel and sound of an acoustic piano at a reasonable price. Obviously, you get what you pay for and there will be some compromises.
I hated the feel of the P225's keys (didn't feel anything like a real piano) in comparison to the YDP-145. Is the P225's key mechanism generally considered bad in terms of preparing to play on an acoustic piano?
Is the YDP-145 considered pretty good for the price?
Is the extra $1,000 to go from a YDP to an entry-level Clavinova worth it?
Any advice would be much appreciated!
I'm trying to find something my Samsung charger can technically do at least _slightly_ better than my third party Anker charger (when charging my Samsung Galaxy 26U).
So far, the Anker (83g) seems to be whipping the Samsung's (103g) ass in every respect. 🤔 Retractable pins, smaller size, lower weight. Cheaper!
Both support SFC 3.0 but I was thinking maybe if I looked _really_ close, I'd be able to find a slight theoretical benefit to using a Samsung charger with my Samsung device. But nope.
So far, all I can see is an extra charging profile that the Anker 715 (Nano II 65W) doesn't have. Also the Samsung is PD 3.1 versus the Anker's PD 3.0.
Does the Anker just totally spec mog the Samsung charger and make its existence redundant? 💪🏻☺️
My Anker 715 (Nano II 65W) charges my S26 Ultra using Super Fast Charging 3.0 (65W max from its only USB-C port).
The supposedly more advanced Anker Prime 67W only charges my phone using SFC 2.0 (same result from the "phone" USB-C port (67W max) and the "laptop" USB-C port (also 67W max).
I've looked at the specs for both chargers but can't see why the Anker Prime doesn't support SFC 3.0.
My Anker Prime 67W was an upgrade to my older Anker 735 (which also has 2x USB-C + 1× USB-A). Both models charge my S26U using only SFC 2.0.
Any ideas?
He and three others are managing a charitable trust for religious beliefs in saskatoon!!! Go figure