u/CobaltBlue888

Hello. I was hoping to know if it's safe to remove the digitizer in the Dana's touch-screen display? I was gonna get an AlphaSmart Dana, and I've seen some folks on this subreddit removing the digitizer in order to improve the screen's contrast. Is there a real glass layer underneath the digitizer? And is there any risk of harm to myself or the device by doing this? Thanks

(More pictures from another poster doing a removal)

If you can't show up, leaving a comment still has an impact.

Several council spots are going up for reelection soon, and considering all the traction that the deflock movement has picked up as of late, this may be our greatest chance at getting council to end the contracts.

If we can stop a data center, and get rid of red light cameras, we can do this too!

I just got my cross plush delivered and was disappointed to find that a lot of the white edges have this gross yellowish tint/crust to them. No idea what this stuff is or how it got like this.

If it were a one-off thing, it'd be bad enough, but this has happened to another plush I ordered a long time back too (also white edges being yellow). Anyone else also experience this, or know what might've happened?

There was a flock representative at this meeting and his only response to John Hamilton was "his data is from a Youtuber" and "We have never been hacked"

The whole video is from the College Station Tx City Council meeting on July 23rd. We had over 20 speakers for this event so check out more in the whole video.

Just thought I'd share this here and vent a little, and maybe see if anyone else had a similar experience with this software.

For context, I'm still running an old Dell laptop. Windows 11 is slow as molasses on it, but I want to save some money and continue using it, so I opted to install an LTSC version of Windows 10.

The great thing is, it does run noticeably snappier and smoother after setting up and updating everything. The one problem is just that, when I install my school's lockdown browser to do an assignment, it keeps giving me this error and refuses to start. Supposedly, a required background service is not running.

Lockdown browser worked on Windows 11, and it worked on Windows 10 before I upgraded to 11. I don't see a good reason why it can't run here too. It's not like I'm denying it administrator privileges or anything. I just think it sucks that I now have to choose between an unsupported Windows 10 install, a bloated choppy Windows 11 install, or throw this laptop away as e-waste. I've taken good care of this thing for a long time, and besides performance, it's still in pretty nice shape. FML

Edit:

See my comments below, lockdown browser doesn't work on 2021 LTSC either. Curiously enough, it does work on a fresh install of 2021, it's just that it starts giving this error after doing system updates. Either Windows 10 updates are screwing up lockdown browser, or it's something that the MAS script is doing.

Edit edit:

Windows 11 LTSC works. Thank god. It's a little slower than Windows 10 LTSC, but not as slow as stock Windows 11. Maybe in the future I'll get an SSD too to help speed things up. Thanks y'all!

Hi guys. So I was closely following the Kindle Modding Wiki guide for jailbreaking my Kindle DX Graphite, but I ran into some issues with KUAL.

I got the install file for the jailbreak, updated, got a U006 error (which the guide says is to be expected), installed KUAL, and then skipped straight to installing KOReader like the guide instructed.

But I'm stuck on step 6/7 of installing KOReader bc I can't open KUAL It just shows me the error message in the pic above. I'm also not sure if my Kindle was actually jailbroken or not bc typing ";log" or ";log mrpi" into the search bar doesn't do anything.

Not sure where to go from here. Any advice/pointers would be much appreciated

Edit: I should probably also mention that my kindle's version number is 2.5.5

I was going to buy some kapton tape and I found this roll selling pretty cheap on mouser.com

Does anyone have experience with this brand? Is Soldered known to be a reputable/trustworthy company to buy from? Thanks.

Just wanted to do a follow-up post and share some highlights from the last city council meeting (4/23) where Flock was finally brought up again in agenda item #7.4

Link to the full video is here. Resident comments start at around 46:15, and city council discussion begins at 56:47

The agenda item discussed was for a grant application aiming to use federal dollars to pay for the city's contracts with Flock. The project's cost (per year, I believe) comes out to $370,452 and the city currently has plans to install 72 cameras throughout College Station.

Some key points from the meeting:

• More residents went up to speak against Flock this time around
• The police chief was the sponsor of this item and defended the cameras, assuring the council of their effectiveness, security, and data-sharing practices
• 4th amendment/privacy concerns were largely dismissed by the city attorney.
• The grant application was written in such a way that the grant funds could not be used for any other public safety item besides Flock cameras.
• One council member asked about our current ALPR provider and why there's a need to switch. According to the police chief, Vigilant Solutions, our current vendor, offers mobile units, whereas Flock is the first to offer fixed-unit installations
• Some members, like Melissa, seemed open to further discussion of these cameras and possibly their cancellation at a future meeting
• Ultimately, the council went ahead and voted to approve this item

I can understand why the council approved the grant (it was made clear that whether this item was approved or not, it wouldn't change the city's current contracts with Flock), but it doesn't change the fact this is all still being paid for with our taxpayer dollars, whether it's collected by the city or the federal government, and as such, we deserve a say in whether they stay up or not.

I want to thank everybody who showed up to speak, y'all did great! A lot of good questions were raised by both the council and residents, and if you want to join us at the next city council meeting today (5/18) at 6 PM, you can sign up to speak here. The deadline to sign up is at 2 PM.

Hi y'all. So I've been gathering supplies to get started soldering (gonna be recapping surface-mount and through-hole capacitors) and I've been a little overwhelmed with all the information online, with all the different suppliers and tools/materials needed, on top of having to avoid counterfeits.

Right now, I'm trying to figure out which flux to get. I've seen many recommendations for NC-559. But there seems to be a bunch of rebranding & legal shenanigans going on with this brand, as well as a lot of fakes out there. When I went to the page for Stirri-V2-TF (formerly 559-V2), it's described as though it's only meant to be used with hot-air, not a soldering iron.

I've also seen recommendations for SMD-291 as a clear, easy-to-clean flux, so I'm leaning towards this one.

I get that the flux inside the solder cable is usually enough, but if I ever need flux on its own, which should one I get? Is ifixit.com a good site to get solder and flux from?

I was disassembling my steam deck, but this little yellow spot caught my attention. There's a little hole in corner of my battery, not sure if it's just some outer wrapping, or if the battery is actually punctured. Is it safe to continue using?

I really don't want to replace it if I don't have to. The battery was working just fine before disassembly, and iFixit replacement kits for the LCD model are out of stock (and also cost $135). No idea when they're going back in stock, if ever.

Anybody else have this issue when upgrading their SSD?

I tried replacing my storage with a 256 GB SSD, and though it was a struggle to slide the EMI shield onto the new SSD, I was able to get it on. I screwed the SSD in place, reassembled everything back to the way it was, and when I was nearly done, I noticed that one of the backplate screws wouldn't screw. That, and the case wouldn't seal on the edge near the microsd slot. I tried hard to force it together, but I don't want to try any harder, lest I break something inside.

I know that this SSD is a little thicker, but is it really thick enough to be an issue here? Or did I mess something up in reassembly?