Found some USB C Ports for the NDSL on Aliexpress and I thought I'll give it a try. It took a while since I'm inexperienced with soldering. I also got a bit lucky that the port allinged that good, so I didn't have to grind material from the shell. I'm pretty happy with the result, it fits very good. 👌
So I am using manual pump, soldering iron and I also have wick.
Im trying to desolder. I pretty much got most of it but these joystick frame has 4 legs that are big and even after applying lead solder and sucking using manual pump. It still has some left. I am trying past 30 mins. I am afraid I will burn something else now.
Any tips?
Edit: Thanks everyone for your suggestions! With your help, I was able to cut the joystick frame and apply extra solder. I then heated it up and pried it from the other side, and it worked. Now I have TMR joysticks on my controller.
Hello,
I am a HVAC tech with county maintenance. The last few years we have been installing more and more mini split systems. If you don't know mini splits often have multiple pcb in them. They usually also have soldered on fuses. I have a power supply board thats only issue is a blown fuse. I found the short in another part of the unit. But can't really test the unit do to the powers supply fuse being blown. The fuse is soldered on to the board. Does anyone have some advice on replacing soldered fuses. I have never soldered pcb before.
I have attached some photos of the board in question.
I've tried a thick chisel tip at 365°C with a flood of flux and some unleaded solder, after this wasn't working I just went to the hot air gun. Had it set to 350°C and 40% airflow, had it at 365°C and 50% airflow. I just can't get this port off for the life of me. I don't want to ruin this board, as it's not very replaceable, but I've heated it and let it cool a couple times now with zero luck.
It's clear that I'm not getting a very good heat transfer from the iron, so the hot air station is the obvious next move. But if this can't get it either, I'm not sure what to do now
Hey yall , trying to replace the USB-C port on my friends laptop. I’ve nearly got it square except I can’t get the solder out of the last few through holes. I’ve tried wicking with a chisel and conical tip, using low melt solder, I’ve tried my de soldering gun and using hot air, my last thought is to use a wire to poke through and then try to wick it up with my desoldering gun but it’s frustrating to be right there and it not work
Criticism welcome!
I've seen people say that these things create a lot of static, but I've also seen a lot of youtubers use them anyways when soldering and working on electronics.
Do I need to get an ESD-resistant mat like this? Or would any silicone mat do just fine? Thanks.
as of now it doesnt connect to fm radio and only functions as a way to count to 9 touching the volume buttons causes it to cease life but im working my way back from the schematics to see what i f'd up
to give context this is after watching one 5 minute youtube video and soldering for the first time ever. i wanna have a good laugh and something to look back on if i understand what im doing someday so dont hold back 😂
The rest of the solder melts and wicks up just fine, but I'm left with a flat spot now. Touching the flat spot with the iron just scuffs it under the microscope, and it doesn't seem to melt no matter how long the tip is held. Any assistance would be nice.
Swapping the joysticks on my ps4 controller. I got the old one off but was impatient and didn’t properly remove all of the old solder before dropping in the new joystick. Instead I heated up the prexisting solder that remained and now it is in crooked and won’t budge? What’s the best way to get it the rest of the way in. I don’t have a hot air station.
Hi, a while ago I posted my PS5 controller repair here. Today I was working on another one, and I think the soldering looks much better this time. However, a problem came up. After plugging it in, the analog sticks work great, but the up button on the D-pad is constantly registered as pressed. I'm attaching a picture of the contacts on the motherboard. Did I overheat it, and is that why?
Hey everyone,
I’m in Türkiye and trying to DIY repair my PS5 HDMI issue. The console powers on but shows “No Signal,” and I already tested different HDMI cables + displays, so I think the HDMI port itself may be damaged.
I want to learn and try fixing it myself instead of immediately taking it to a repair shop. I’ve been looking at Trendyol / Hepsiburada / local electronics shops but I’m not sure which materials are actually good quality and necessary.
What I currently think I need:
Questions:
Also if anyone in Türkiye has done this repair before, I’d appreciate recommendations for where to buy decent electronics repair tools/materials locally or online.
Thanks 🙏
Im looking for my first iron for smaller electronic stuff (hobby stuff) that is wall powered and is durable long term and works well enough, my budget is roughly around 60 usd, if anyone can point me in the right direction i would hugely appreciate it.
Also what kind of things should i get with it?
Hi everyone,
I have soldered in the past, maybe 5 times, very badly, so I am basically completely inexperienced.
Some context:
I have a very good soldering iron, flux, desoldering wick.
My main target/hope is to become good enough at soldering so I can solder my hobby electronics projects on perfboard, build and assemble a drone, repair my electronics, that kind of stuff.
I've been doing a couple of practice kits (astable multivibrator, christmas tree with leds, that kind of stuff) and they went OK, they don't look good but they work.
I have consumed much, much, much well reviewed youtube content about soldering. I felt prepared
What I tried:
I have a project that works on the breadboard, it includes a raspberry pico, a waveshare eink display, some transistors, leds and resistors. I felt ready to solder it , had a plan, wiring diagram:
- Step 1: solder a 40 pin GPIO header on the perfboard - worked ok
- Step 2: solder pico female headers on the perfboard - worked ok
- Step 3 start connecting wires from the 40 pin GPIO header to the pico ...
I completely failed at this step, broke down at the first wire.
- I tried to make a solder bridge from the header to the unstripped part of the wire .. failed
- I used the wick to remove most of the solder and tried to solder the wire directly to the very small pin of the female headers. Horrible failure, I can get the wire stuck to the pin, but as soon as I come in to add more solder, I melt everything and the wire falls off.
- I repeated the above 2 attempts many times
I tinned the header first, I tinned the wire, didn't help. I used a 1.6 mm chisel tip for this.
Everytime I tried something, I ended up creating a bigger and bigger blob around my work area. I would then wick it away, try again, same result.
So obviously I am very bad at this and need more practice. I cannot try to solder my project because I will have more failures along the way, I am sure.
Thank you for reading all this way, the subject of the post follows only now:
So how do I train? I will do more practice kits, I have a few of them, they will help but they are all for through hole or smd components.
I seem to fail miserably at point to point connections.
Should I just take a lot of wire, a perfboard and do endless connections between wires and headers until I am good at it? Then maybe I can experiment with more methods of holding the wires down in place? maybe tie them to the perfboard with wire-core so that they stay perfectly put?
When I watch youtube videos, it looks like everyhting just falls into place, the author just uses tweezers to lay the wire, touches it with the souldering iron, BOOM, done.
When I do it I lay the wire in place, touch it with the soldering iron and everything moves away, gets stuck to the wrong thing, meanwhile the blob just grows.
Do I just practice for hours on the exact thing I need?
Thank you for reading all this, I appreciate any tips.
I started a job where everyone has a piece of glass that we lay masking tape and clear tape down and cut pieces to hold wires down while soldering, typically 36 gauge and smaller. I thought it was pretty cool and something I'm going to add to my home workstation. I also cut little pieces of masking tape to prevent bridging on the tiny pads I have to solder
didnt plug it in as chat gpt said it could fuse its pi 0 2w and without headers and as we need to solder he did this, please help should he take it to someone who knows to solder?
Photo 1 - conductors pre-tinned
Photo 2 - 23ga solid and 24ga stranded are lashed with 30ga - 8 wraps
Photo 3 - Soldered
Not Shown - Heat Shrink
