
My first perfboard PCB
Ik it takes a lot of solder but
What do y'all think?

Ik it takes a lot of solder but
What do y'all think?
Idk why but all of my tips just oxidised so fast. I mean like 3-4 in 5 hours of working. The end of the top gets dark and stop working.
I use a 110V-240v/90w soldering at 330-290 c heat. And idk why it’s happening to me.
“Now they are 4 tips completely burned out.
I don’t have a brass wool cleaner.
I need <1mm thick solder for circuit boards, and all the big box stores seem to have is giant-size plumbing solder. Where can I quickly get fine electrical solder today? Close proximity to Eagle Rock preferred. Thanks!
UPDATE: Harbor Freight to the rescue today, but I am VERY pleased to know about PacRad for the future. Thanks, everyone!
Good Afternoon Gents,
My manager gave me permission to get a tier list for the Basic, Mid, and Top tier of the hot air guns. Pictured is the hot air gun that I ordered. The first one we had was garbage. It was the hot air gun wit the fan on the handle. Was garbage. So i improved upon it by getting the tube one, but where I messed up at as you can see is that the air and temp are on the same nozzle. So i'm allowed to get a new one but he wants a tier list and also for me to explain the differences of them all.
I deal mainly with laptops and micro pcs like the Optiplex 7000 series. And laptops are Dell, and Lenovo and some HP. The ones for businesses so for dell it'll be the latitudes and Thinkpads like T14s and etc. The main project I will be doing when I do get the heat gun is We about 11 Optiplex 7000s that have bad front USB ports and since those connectors are hard to find, I need to take them off some bad units and replace them. Since I cannot control the separate nozzles, I end up burning the piece even tho I do get the usb connector off. What I did learn about the hot air guns were that there were two types. Helical wind and straight wind, I knew nothing about a week ago. But yeah I would love to hear you all thoughts on the topic on what you guys recommend. You guys already helped me a lot with the flux/solder situation as well. So thanks again in advance!
Hi yall! i bought a soldering iron, a thing of soldering paste, and a roll of soldering lead just yesterday. I used it to repair my old sewing machine pedal's connections.
So now i have an entire roll of soldering iron, an ironing rod, and a thing of soldering paste just sitting around about to collect dust. I'd like that to not happen but i dont know what else to use it for since i only had that one thing to repair. Any suggestions welcome, but it'd be preferred if it's beginner friendly i guess lmfao
Purchased off of Amazon really just wanted to get the smoke out of my face. I do mostly hobby soldering at home but after a 200+ joint project I figured I'd move some air. The fan is 110v @ ~ 1/4 amp
This is the best selling "Soldering extractor fan" on Amazon.
Upon unboxing I checked with a multimeter and found no continuity between the steel case, the fan surround which is also metal and the mains plug ground pin. The yellow paint and fan paint was insulating the ground ring terminal at the case.
After sanding down both painted areas at the ring terminal it now has continuity to the mains ground pin.
Be safe out there.
I'm doing a lot of soldering recently, and I noticed something peculiar - most of the time, it's a non-issue to solder a wire onto a PCD tab or into a through-hole (non-english speaker, not sure what the exact terms are). But with a few modules, it seemed almost impossible to make the solder "connect" to a tab. I tried flux as well, but it took many tries, and I even ruined one module by my continued attempts.
I cannot remember anymore what those components were (I think it was some buck-boost thingy where it was really bad) - so more generally asking, are there some differences in tabs I should be aware of? Can I spot them somehow? Any different techniques I should use?
And I'm sure it's not the iron. I can move on from a "problematic" components one to another and solder just fine.
Hi, do you think this would be a good soldering practice desk? With some resistors and stuff of course.
https://pajenicko.cz/prototypova-univerzalni-deska-50x30mm-oboustranna-1.27mm-2.54mm-smd-tht
First off, Im a total soldering noob. I do analog camera repair as a pasttime hobby and this ancient PCB had battery corrosion over part of it. Cleaned that off but how do i go about this now? Should i remove all the old solder and do it all new? Or only redo the black parts and solidify others that became weak overtime?
This board is from a praktica mtl 3 btw, made in the 60s or 70s presumably.
Thanks in advance for taking the time to read this and help out a newbie 🙏
I'm trying to replace all of the capacitors on my Sega Genesis Model 2 with new ones. They are all through hole, but these boards are getting pretty old at this point. I guess i am thinking about very specific things such as: should I cut the old capacitor flush with the board PRIOR to desoldering the remaining pieces of each leg? Should I use a solder sucker first, and then soldering wick after to clean up the remnants, then once I think I've gotten all the solder, apply heat and using tweezers remove the 2 remaining leg pieces? I really don't want to harm these pads and some guy at the retro game shop said its very easy to rip the pads off of these things when replacing the capacitors. I just want to learn how to do this the correct way, with everything in the correct order.
this was the last straw, nobody can do a worse job than this
I'm beginning to learn how to solder and have no experience yet. I'm learning so I can eventually repair controllers and consoles. My budget is around $100.
What soldering station or soldering iron would you recommend? Also, what other tools/accessories should I get to get started?
I'd appreciate any advice. Thank you!
I'm more interested in buying a quality iron/station that will last rather than getting a cheap kit with a lot of accessories.
This might definitely be answered beforehand. My question is what are the bare minimal tools required to setup a soldering station. I would like to work on raspberry pi, esp32 etc
Edit: Thanks for your response, highly appreciated
Looking for critique.
First time soldering after consuming loads of content online.
it took me an 1 hour to take them off. I used a solder sucker and hot air gun.
theres a tiny piece of leftover connector in the board. That was my first instance of trying to take it off two months ago. And I failed miserably.
With each passing day I have refined my soldering and today I gave another try and this is the results!
There is a typo in the title and I can't change it, the watch model is supposed to be: Casio w800h, w800hd, W-800HD-1AV
I hope google picks up on this and it gets indexed properly so future readers and see this post and do the mod themselves.
==========
Back then I posted about asking how to solder a blob without any soldering experience. I am happy to report back that I did it and it worked!
Using this info here: https://ianrees.nz/tech/2019-09-13-casio-w-800h-extras.html
I need to add a blob to point 5 to disable dual time, which was useless to me, I didn't want keep pressing an extra button to switch modes.
At first I thought about doing it the easy way by buying conductive paint and painting it, but then I read the reviews and it says I have to bake the watch in the oven, so that was a no go.
So I took the courage to solder it (For reference I set the soldering iron to 325 degrees C) and now I did it! It looks a bit messy, but it works and now my watch is modded!
I recently changed tips on my soldering iron, but I had this issue before. The solder pools up not at the tip. Any recommendations to fix? Different tip shape, better tinning process than flooding fluxed solder?
I had purchased a 5G module for my DIY modem, but the fourth U.FL is missing the grounding ring that the receiver snaps on to...
Is this salvageable? Figure if it is it may be a good excuse to finally learn how to solder?
Hello folks. I am thinking to get Geboon TC22 soldering station since it is so often recommended. I have few questions for you.
Last 3 irons i’ve had oxidised practically instantly cause of the “perfectly fine solder” i was using that was ruining everything and rendering them useless in less than 3 days