r/soldering

if you want rate them 1-10, or just give any constructive criticism you have please and thanks

Joystick from the Backbone One, used a desoldering pump and some 2mm wick with some flux that i got a long time ago, leaded cynel solder 60/40.

I hate the tiny I tip that came with the T12X, this was just a test before putting a new one into my valve index controller, decided to wait for the geeboon tc22 because i just can't risk it with this tip, I'll live with the broken one a little longer :)

(we do not talk about the last photo, I couldn't get it to be a nice ball, all the solder just kept sticking to the tip.)

Im sure you can tell that I did pins 1-8... I've tried to follow all the videos I've watched for instructions and tips. Am I doing something wrong or do I just need alot more practice?

Decided to fix up an old strat clone and bought a new soldering iron and a bunch bunch of parts. I think it went pretty well.

This might be the worst soldering job you have ever seen but it’s the best I could do with this being the first pcb I have ever built. None of the soldering points touch each other and the bypass works fine so there shouldn’t be a problem with the input output. The LED works fine it’s just the rest. I did nick the cream coloured rectangle thing with the iron so if anyone knows where i can get a replacement in London it would be greatly appreciated! thanks

Hello, i got these lamps second hand. They are copper sheets attached to wood. The copper is peeling off and I was told maybe soldering would be the best route to fix the lamp. I am looking for a seamless look, i dont want it to look soldered. I also have no experience soldering and was hoping to get a bit of guidance here! Thank you So much

Now I can check small devices such as LEDs, relays and something!

I'm so proud of myself because it is works and nothing exploded!

Features: variable output voltage(0 to 15V) with graphical display. Used old laptop power supply(19V 2.3A).

P.S. schematic on the last photo

https://snescentral.com/pcbboards.php?chip=SHVC-1A3B-13

So this is the board from Final Fantasy Mystic quest. If anyone could help me identify the resistor next to D1 or D2, it's the short one near the button battery. On my actual board, one of the leads is broken and even Chatgpt can't identify it because of it discoloration. Its basicially a single yellow or orange band.

thanks in advance.

Entire backside under cpu socket was stripped when the board slid... didn't even realize until after I finished🤣

For my first few projects I used a very cheap Toolcraft soldering iron. Now I wanted to upgrade (and also free some space in my apartment) and bought an Alientek T90B. As I am currently only solder THT parts I looked online which of the tip options on AliExpress would be the best fit for this and it said KU tip.

When I first heated up and tinned this knife tip the solder only stuck to the front edge of it and the side faces turned dark black immediately like you can see in image 1.

I then asked Gemini (I know that probably wasn't the smartest move...) if this is what it should look like and it said "No not at all! The sides should also be tinned." And advised me to buy tip tinner.

I did and used it on the tip and now it looks like the second image. So not that black anymore but with a strange dot on it that won't take any solder. I then uploaded that image to Gemini and now it said the side faces should be black and only the front edge of the knife should hold solder.

Obviously now I'm super confused. Also I couldn't find any good images of how it should really look like. So I would really appreciate if someone could tell me which of the two versions (or a different third one 😃) is the correct look for these knife type tips.

I cleaned the area with alcohol and applied flux, tinned the iron tip and set the solder to 350c. But for some reason always end up with cold solder joints.

What could be the reason??

Figured you guys would appreciate a post that isn't "halp, I destroyed my dualsense" 😅

First photos show the aftermath, the last two – preparation steps, diluting factory solder

Photo 1, 2, 3: macro shots of removed stick module through-holes

Photo 4: most of factory-solder sucked out using a desoldering pump, before wicking and hot-air

Photo 5: diluting factory solder with lower melting point solder

Hey!
This is my first time using hot air and this Tomlov DM9 digital scope. I used the AIFEN-868D at 370°C and low-medium airflow. I tried soldering, desoldering and resoldering SOP14 on a practice board. I used some Sn99Ag0.3Cu0.7 Solder paste. Do you have any tips to avoid forming those clumps of solder while still having enough for each pin ? Thanks.