u/ConfidentlyLearning

I recently bought a replacement toner cartridge for a HP Neverstop Laser MFP 1202w.

I believe it was completely empty or unuseably dry, and after several attempts to load toner from it (all jammed), there's no indication from the printer that its toner level has changed.

Symptoms:

- when I pre-shook it to loosen the toner, the ball inside it was very hard to break loose so it would move around, and eventually stuck again (stopped making noise even as I continued shaking it).

- the cartridge inserted OK, but the plunger was extremely hard to push down. I put my whole body-weight on it and it finally went down and 'clicked', but the toner level indicator light did not change.

- the cartridge would not rotate after the plunger was down. I had to 'cancel' the process to get the printer to release the cartridge. When I tried it again (each time, several times) it behaved the same.

- the instructions recommend, if the plunger doesn't push all the way down, to pull it up and try again. When I tried to lift the plunger back up to re-try the push-down operation, the top came off the plunger. I had to use a tool to get a grip on the plunger sufficient to lift it up so I could push it down again.

After all this, a test-page shows streaks on it that weren't there before, but the toner-level shows exactly as it was. Is there any way to contact HP (I don't have a support contract) about the failed toner cartridge? Note - the problem is not with the printer, but with the cartridge.

Thanks for any advice you can offer.

Dear kindly chemistry wizards,

I'm trying to rebuild a fitting made of a PVC pipe glued to an aluminum fitting. I'd like to remove the PVC pipe and re-use the machined aluminum fitting. They have been glued together for likely 30-40 years. The PVC pipe fits through a hole in the aluminum, and is glued inside. (If the PVC was glued to the outside of the aluminum I could grind it off, but since it goes through a hole, I don't have the tools to clean it out.)

Are there any commonly-available chemicals that will safely soften or dissolve the PVC without damaging the aluminum?

Thanks!

I've decided that, if I turn the printer off before I remove a new job (and get my oily fingerprints all over the print sheet), then the printer won't notice the mess I made, and I won't have to clean the print sheet before the next print.

That should work, right?

I'm in a one story house in the upper midwest, with an unfinished attic/crawlspace above the kitchen. Low pitch roof. I'd like to add a 24" vent hood over the stove (small kitchen), running up through the cabinets above, through the ceiling, about 5' of ducting vertically in the attic, then through the roof. I can do the vent hood install, the electrical and the ducting in the kitchen.

I'm concerned about:

- flexible vs rigid ducting in the attic?

- supporting the ducting in the attic (ceiling joists and bat insulation below, uninsulated rafters above). I don't know local code requirements. Strapping required/recommended?

- installing the roof vent without damaging the integrity of the existing shingles.

Is this an HVAC job? Or a roofer's job? Or should I pull a permit and ask a county inspector what the requirements are? Or - some other approach?

All advice is much appreciated.

My goal is to print some cardiac-trace amulets.

So - I found a trace image, used GIMP to convert the line to an .svg, and imported the .svg file to make the cardiac-trace line in OpenSCAD, like below, but... it's too thin.

Is there any way to make the trace line thicker in both the Y and the Z axis? I'm playing with Minkowski and Hull, but I haven't had any luck yet.

Thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/b52zonvrizwg1.png?width=769&format=png&auto=webp&s=958d6e1493f2abc1abca4336d76e7d2fba0d1ee3