u/Conspirologist

I accidentally clicked on this link. Norton says it's botnet.

https://www.virustotal.com/gui/url/72371df0c385be913ce73e0169cea089205ed04cd2c962a2079c66e2403a7397?nocache=1

Hackers are using stealthy programs called Droppers and Loaders to avoid AV detection.

Droppers hide the actual malware inside, extracting and installing it secretly later.

Loaders are mini codes, later secretly connecting to internet to download the real malware.

They have low detection rate, from 5% to 25%.

They use fileless execution running only in system memory/RAM and encryption to look harmless and avoid detection.

AV scanners are not enough. Unlike AV, Endpoint Detection and Response (EDR) or behavioral monitoring tools react to what a program does, like unauthorized memory injection, rather than what it looks like.

When I tried to access a site with a VPN extension, it was detected.

With Firefox VPN it worked, no detection.

Can somebody explain why?

Portable Tails OS on USB stick. It doesn't save any data.

All browsing data and downloads disappear after the end of session.

I don't know any browser offering the same browsing security.

I was told iPhone doesn't have automatic multi switch between Bluetooth audio devices like Android does.

Is this true, or bullshit?

It's funny how Google AI is not defending Chrome. Highly likely they will fix this sooner or later.

Chrome is accused to be anti privacy. Are other browsers really better, or it's all the same?

>No, it is definitely not all the same. The anti-privacy fears surrounding Google Chrome are valid. Because Google's primary business is behavioral profiling and advertising, Chrome natively tracks your habits. Other browsers are functionally and fundamentally better because they block trackers by default and do not monetize your data.

> Brave Browser. > >Why it’s better: It blocks third-party ads, tracking cookies, and fingerprinting automatically the second you install it. > >Compatibility: It is built on the same open-source engine as Chrome (Chromium), which means you can install all the same extensions from the Chrome Web Store. > >Pros: Doesn't require hours of tweaking to be secure. > >Cons: Includes optional cryptocurrency/rewards features that some users feel clutter the experience.

>Mozilla Firefox

>Why it’s better: It is entirely independent of tech monopolies (using its own Gecko rendering engine), making it the best defense against Google controlling how the web works.

>Pros: Highly customizable. It allows you to use highly effective blocking extensions (like uBlock Origin) that are difficult or impossible to run properly on Chrome-based browsers.

>Cons: Out of the box, it is not as aggressively private as Brave; you have to adjust settings to disable telemetry.

> Tor Browser:

>Why it’s better: The absolute gold standard for true anonymity. It bounces your web traffic through a decentralized network so your browsing can never be traced back to your location.

>Pros: Maximum security.

>Cons: Because it bounces your connection globally, websites will load much slower. It is better used for specific, highly sensitive browsing rather than everyday web tasks.

If you have Bluetooth dropouts, switch off Smart Audio & Video on JBL Headphones app.

I tried ESET free trial. It's asking only the email to receive the code for activation. When I enter the email, it says error and asks if I want to buy it.

I checked the site. It's the official ESET site.

Is this a scam, or a bug?

Norton has a good customer support technically, by phone, chat, and remote computer connection, but the technicians are not skilled. After a lot of time the average technician was unable to fix the problem, he had to call their chief who resolved the problem in a few seconds.

I just learned that only ESET and Defender can scan UEFI from the top AV available.

I wonder why nobody else can. AV is useless without UEFI scan.

I don't need detection specs, they are freely available everywhere.

I need an AV form the top list that has most tools and is compatible with secondary scanners like Malwarebytes and HitmanPro, and not causing problems to OS.

As far as I know, Kaspersky has a lot of problems with OS.

Obviously I don't need clones owned by Norton or other brands.

Bitdefender has problems with secondary AV scanners.

The only I know is ESET that don't have these problems.

Norton has all the tools and doesn't have problems with OS. But it always trying to make buy useless addons and to scam on renewal with credit card.

Is there another AV that is full loaded like Norton, but without problems, like ESET seems to be? Or only ESET is left?

Archive.today (archive.is, etc...) inserted malicious JavaScript into its CAPTCHA pages. Whenever users loaded the CAPTCHA to verify they were human, the site forced their browsers to unknowingly flood websites with repeated search requests in a distributed denial-of-service (DDoS) attack. Wikipedia blacklisted all archive.today links across its platform.

Norton just blocked one of the pages on Reddit when scrolling for new posts from my subscriptions. It says fake Captcha. Norton made the Reddit page freeze without loading full to the bottom, so I can't go to the next page.

When some cassette tapes sound great on certain decks but dull or overly bright on others, it's not just wrong settings. There really were different standards between Japanese and European manufacturers.

Why this happened:

European BASF (with DuPont technology) pioneered true chromium dioxide tape in the early 1970s. Licensing the chrome pigment was expensive and restricted (Sony had exclusive rights in Japan). Japanese companies like TDK and Maxell therefore developed their own cobalt-doped ferric formulations as a cheaper, patent-free alternative.

These cobalt tapes performed well with the bias settings common in Japanese decks, which dominated the global consumer market. As a result, most decks worldwide were calibrated for Japanese-style tapes rather than pure European chrome.

The Core Difference (Type II "Chrome" Position):

Japanese tapes (TDK SA, Maxell XLII, Sony UX, etc.) → Mostly cobalt-doped ferric (ferricobalt / pseudo-chrome). They became the dominant Type II formulation. Japanese decks were almost always factory-calibrated for these tapes.

European tapes (especially early BASF Chromdioxid, Agfa, etc.) → True chromium dioxide (real chrome). European decks were typically aligned for these.

Both are labeled "Type II / Chrome / High Bias" and use the same 70μs EQ, but the magnetic properties (bias needs, sensitivity, high-frequency response) are different enough to cause real-world compatibility issues on fixed-bias decks.

What This Means in Practice:

Playing an European Chrome tape on a Japanese deck (without bias adjustment) often sounds duller (over-biased).

Recording on Japanese cobalt tapes on a European deck can sound brighter/harsher or have higher distortion.

Japanese manufacturers dominated the market, so most decks worldwide ended up tuned for Japanese tapes.

When some cassette tapes sound great on certain decks but dull or overly bright on others, it's not just wrong settings. There really were different standards between Japanese and European manufacturers.

Why this happened:

European BASF (with DuPont technology) pioneered true chromium dioxide tape in the early 1970s. Licensing the chrome pigment was expensive and restricted (Sony had exclusive rights in Japan). Japanese companies like TDK and Maxell therefore developed their own cobalt-doped ferric formulations as a cheaper, patent-free alternative.

These cobalt tapes performed well with the bias settings common in Japanese decks, which dominated the global consumer market. As a result, most decks worldwide were calibrated for Japanese-style tapes rather than pure European chrome.

The Core Difference (Type II "Chrome" Position):

Japanese tapes (TDK SA, Maxell XLII, Sony UX, etc.) → Mostly cobalt-doped ferric (ferricobalt / pseudo-chrome). They became the dominant Type II formulation. Japanese decks were almost always factory-calibrated for these tapes.

European tapes (especially early BASF Chromdioxid, Agfa, etc.) → True chromium dioxide (real chrome). European decks were typically aligned for these.

Both are labeled "Type II / Chrome / High Bias" and use the same 70μs EQ, but the magnetic properties (bias needs, sensitivity, high-frequency response) are different enough to cause real-world compatibility issues on fixed-bias decks.

What This Means in Practice:

Playing an European Chrome tape on a Japanese deck (without bias adjustment) often sounds duller (over-biased).

Recording on Japanese cobalt tapes on a European deck can sound brighter/harsher or have higher distortion.

Japanese manufacturers dominated the market, so most decks worldwide ended up tuned for Japanese tapes.

If you own a Hi-Fi device with VFD display, pay attention.

Most of devices use Vacuum Fluorescent Displays (VFD). They look nice and bright when new, but they wear out over time, the display gets blurry and dark with age, becoming unreadable. This is a common issue.

The dying fast for these displays is caused by leaving the display always on Brightest. The filaments and phosphors burn out fast with constant use and highest brightness.

How to make VFD displays last much longer:

1 - Set the display to “Off”. It lights up only when needed.

2 - For when it turns on, use the lowest brightness setting.

This setting can multiply the life of the display by 5 to 10 times. Many people report their displays still look good after 10 to 15+ years.

Stop leaving VFD displays on Bright all the time. Set it to Off + lowest dim when on, and you’ll avoid, or greatly delay, the display to die fast.

If you own a Hi-Fi device with VFD display, pay attention.

Most of devices use Vacuum Fluorescent Displays (VFD). They look nice and bright when new, but they wear out over time, the display gets blurry and dark with age, becoming unreadable. This is a common issue.

The dying fast for these displays is caused by leaving the display always on Brightest. The filaments and phosphors burn out fast with constant use and highest brightness.

How to make VFD displays last much longer:

1 - Set the display to “Off”. It lights up only when needed.

2 - For when it turns on, use the lowest brightness setting.

This setting can multiply the life of the display by 5 to 10 times. Many people report their displays still look good after 10 to 15+ years.

Stop leaving VFD displays on Bright all the time. Set it to Off + lowest dim when on, and you’ll avoid, or greatly delay, the display to die fast.

Malwarebytes finally updated the AV with adding WebCam alert. It warns you if any app is trying to access your webcam.