Incorporating the Campus Board
Hi all
Looking for advice on beginner campus board workouts for a non beginner climber. I’ve been bouldering for 5 years, actively trying to improve and train for bouldering for only the last 15 months though. Currently max grade on gym boulders and Kilter board is v7, I typically flash gym/kilter v5s. I’ve been outdoors maybe 8 times total and have sent 4-5 V4s outside.
I feel as though campus board training is low hanging fruit for me to milk “noob gains” on to improve my climbing power, as I have never used this for training and I struggle with contact strength and dynamic lock offs. I’m not a very powerful/dynamic climber, my strength is my static full crimp strength which is disproportionately strong for my climbing level imo (I can hang full crimp on 15mm at 120% BW for 7sec).
My gym has 5 different campus ladders - full jug, sloper logs, 30mm crimp bar, 20mm crimp bar, 15mm crimp bar. I’m looking to improve my outdoor climbing so I don’t think the jugs will be too helpful. I’m thinking the 30mm crimp bar is probably the best place to start, yeah?
How do you structure your campus board workout (eg sets/reps of what exactly)? Do you do it before you climb? Or do you do it on a non-climbing day? How do you address a weaker left/right side? (eg Do you train both at the weaker side’s limit or do you train both sides at their individual limit?)
Thanks in advance.