Incorporating the Campus Board

Hi all

Looking for advice on beginner campus board workouts for a non beginner climber. I’ve been bouldering for 5 years, actively trying to improve and train for bouldering for only the last 15 months though. Currently max grade on gym boulders and Kilter board is v7, I typically flash gym/kilter v5s. I’ve been outdoors maybe 8 times total and have sent 4-5 V4s outside.

I feel as though campus board training is low hanging fruit for me to milk “noob gains” on to improve my climbing power, as I have never used this for training and I struggle with contact strength and dynamic lock offs. I’m not a very powerful/dynamic climber, my strength is my static full crimp strength which is disproportionately strong for my climbing level imo (I can hang full crimp on 15mm at 120% BW for 7sec).

My gym has 5 different campus ladders - full jug, sloper logs, 30mm crimp bar, 20mm crimp bar, 15mm crimp bar. I’m looking to improve my outdoor climbing so I don’t think the jugs will be too helpful. I’m thinking the 30mm crimp bar is probably the best place to start, yeah?

How do you structure your campus board workout (eg sets/reps of what exactly)? Do you do it before you climb? Or do you do it on a non-climbing day? How do you address a weaker left/right side? (eg Do you train both at the weaker side’s limit or do you train both sides at their individual limit?)

Thanks in advance.

reddit.com
u/Cremaster_Reflex69 — 5 days ago

Affordable Nigiri / Sashimi experience

Hi reddit

I am a huge foodie and normally eat at fine dining / $$$$ restaurants - it is my guilty pleasure. However I just got back from vacation where I spent WAY TOO MUCH money on food.

This weekend is my birthday. I am looking for a place where I can order a couple pieces of nigiri/ sashimi at a time and just keep going until I’m full (usually ~25 pieces). Usually I would do this by sitting at a sushi bar and order directly from the chef - but most places I have done this were around $20-$25 per piece of nigiri.

I am looking for this experience but at a more affordable price. It doesn’t even have to be at a sushi counter - I’ve seen places with ipads to order and robots or conveyer belts delivering orders.

So in summary, are there any more affordable places (eg not Royal Izakaya, Morimoto, etc) where I can order 5-6 pieces of nigiri/sashimi at a time for a total of 25-30 pieces at a more reasonable price? I fully expect to spend >$200 for this but that is much cheaper than what I spent on this vacation for the same experience.

Thanks in advance

reddit.com
u/Cremaster_Reflex69 — 2 months ago

Hi all,

About to depart O’ahu for Maui. Staying at the Four Seasons in Maui. We’re on our honeymoon.

We have plenty of bougie, fine dining dinners planned. But we have a couple nights for more “casual” or quick bites - we love grabbing it to go and setting up on the beach or our hotel balcony to eat.

Looking for recs in the Wailea area for good options to do exactly this - grab food to go and take to the beach to eat.

Poke and sushi are at the top of the list, but any other recs are appreciated. It seems there is a foodtruck park maybe 10 minutes away that also might be a good option?

Thanks in advance, Mahalo

reddit.com
u/Cremaster_Reflex69 — 2 months ago