u/D00M98

I am on Windows 11. I am running local LLM using llama.cpp. Using docker to run Hermes in sandbox.

I updated Hermes today, so client v0.21.5, commit 13dc3a7.

I did download qwen2.5-coder-14b-instruct LLM couple days ago. So it is relative new. I swore yesterday, I was able to write to /opt/data folder and execute codes. But today, it will only output snippets. It cannot even check the current working directory, or write a very simple test.txt file. It just provides snippet. It claims it did write the file, but there is no file. I ask if it can read the test.txt file, and it claims it can.

I tested 2 other LLMs (Qwen3.5-9B and gemma-4-12b), no issue on writing file and executing code.

Is there something I'm doing wrong with qwen2.5-coder-14b-instruct, or Hermes update broke something.

This is my llama.cpp call

"%SERVER_EXE%" ^ --model "%MODEL_PATH%" ^ --alias "Local Model" ^ --host %HOST% ^ --port %PORT% ^ --ctx-size 65536 ^ --cache-type-k q4_0 ^ --cache-type-v q4_0 ^ --device CUDA0,CUDA1 --split-mode layer --n-gpu-layers all ^ --main-gpu 0 ^ --flash-attn on ^ --no-mmap

Hi guys, in the past year, I have changed my tracking services film/tv watchlist multiple times. It is such a pain.

Right now, I'm using all 4 services: Trakt, Plex, JustWatch, Reelgood. This is temporary. Trakt, Plex, and Reelgood have 100% of my history. Justwatch is partial.

What I'm looking for:

1. Free tier only.
2. Able to download watch list. Can be either csv/json export, or API call.
3. Able to upload watch list. Can be either csv/json import, or API call.
4. Has subscribed or favorite streaming services, so I check if movies I want to watch are on my streaming services.
5. (Nice to have) Track by date, so I can run analysis and trends.

For 2 & 3, I can do this with Trakt and Plex. I use AI to manipulate the data, so I am ok with either data or API calls.

For 4, I was using Reelgood, but also started to use Justwatch last year.

For 5, this is nice to have, and very easy with Trakt.

Basically, I have to use 2 services to meet my needs. I was thinking about using Trakt and JustWatch.

Then I started to check around. I learned about Simkl. Any gotchas I should be concerned with?

I completed the Trek Century Challenge.

I got couple emails stating from Trek to pick up the stem cap gift from LBS. But LBS did not receive the stem cap shipment. I was looking forward to this.

Did anyone else didn't get the stem cap?

Just want to share some cycling photos from summer. This summer is a bit different. It seemed to be cooler with more clouds than typical. Clouds are great for dramatic photos.

Morning commute on SF Bay Trail in Mountain View

Had to stop to capture the sun rays

Always Like this \"No Name Trail\" sign in Coyote Hills, Fremont

Sun bathing turkey vulture, Shoreline trail, off Dumbarton bridge

Close up of turkey vulture

Shoreline Park, Mountain View

Canada geese in Shoreline Park, Mountain View

Salt pond at Alviso Marina County Park

Another salt pond at Ravenswood

My Checkpoint ALR 5 Gen 3 came with Bontrager Girona Pro 42mm tires.

I know they are not fast. But I just assumed my heavy bike also contributed. Bike rack, pannier, and backpack with notebook computer.

I have ridden Girona Pro 2000 miles in past 6 months. On weekends, I have another bike with WTB Nano 40mm tires. Girona Pro just felt so slow in comparison.

My commute is 13.5 miles 1-way. 14% paved road; 42% paved multi-use path; 32% sandy dirt; 12% gravel (roughly cat 1 & 2).

I have Schwalbe G-Pro Allround 34/35mm that came with another used bike. One tire was worn and had punctures; other was only around 50% worn. I was kind of doubtful with narrow 35mm tires. That was the reason I bought Checkpoint gravel bike, because I wanted to fit wider tires. But I am curious how the 35mm will perform.

And I'm also a cheapskate. So I figured I will buy another cheap 35mm tire. So I ended up buying 1x Vittoria Terreno Dry 2C 35mm for $35.

I put the G-Pro on the front (measures 36mm); Vittoria Terreno in the rear (measures 39mm). Both with TPU inner tubes.

https://preview.redd.it/xezt5ylx2okh1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=184448b3739484cb2c2fb55fd5ddb4c3c82a5c6e

These tires feel much quicker and faster than Girona Pro. They felt great on paved road and multi-use path, which is not surprising. These also felt much faster on the sandy dirt; not sure if due to rolling resistance or the narrower width. On the gravel, some sections are fine, but other sections definitely do not feel as nice 42mm. Fortunately, my commute only has 12% or 1.6 miles of gravel, so very manageable.

Some websites have Panaracer Gravelking SK+ Protite TLC (tubeless compatible) on sale for $20-$40 each. Legit website are around $40 each. Not sure if the $20 ones are scam sites or not.

However, these models are not on Panaracer's website. Website currently list TLR (tubeless ready) models.

Are the TLC older, discontinued models? Any difference in performance (like rolling resistance, puncture protection, or longevity)?

Hi all, I just want to gather as much information as possible before moving onto the next step on taking medication.

56 M. I have had urination problems for 5+ years. And right now, it is at a point that I want to start medication use.

Talking to the doctor, I suspect I have BHP. And I got prescription for Terazosin today. I have not started using this medication yet.

But I just found out there is also OAB, which is not the same as BHP. I didn't discuss OAB with my doctor, because I just read about after doctor's appointment.

My symptoms: This is sorted in terms of impact, not frequency.

1. Urgent need to urinate. Does not happen all the time. But when this occurs, it impacts me the most. Sometimes, when I realize I have to urinate, I have to go within minutes; I cannot hold it in. When I'm in a meeting at work, this is very stressful. Do I wait until end of meeting? Or do I step out to use the restroom during the meeting? Now, I typically go immediately before meeting, which helps prevent this issue. At home, because I have access to toilet, I just kind of ignore any urge until last minute. And when I have to go, I got to go immediately, then find the toilet occupied. Ugh, frustrating. At least family is understanding.

2. 2 and 3 are likely related. Also does not happen all the time. At the end of the urinating process, the flow is slow down to drizzle or trickle. And I suspect my bladder is not fully emptied. I don't know why, but sometimes my flow is perfectly fine; other times I have this drizzle or trickle issue.

3. Having urge to urinate after just urinating. Sometimes after I just urinated, then within 10-15 minutes, I have the urge to urinate again. I typically just ignore it, until I really have to go again.

4. Waking up at night to go to bathroom. This occurs daily. I typically go at least 3 times, sometimes 5 times, during the night. 1-2 hours after I go to sleep. Again couple hours later. Then again in 3-4 hours. This is not great for sleep. But it doesn't really bother me and doesn't cause me active stress.

5. Sometimes when I have very strong urge to urinate, but I don't access to bathroom, so I have to hold it as long as possible. Then right before I get to the toilet, there is some urine leakage. Does not happen a lot, but it has happened.

Based on online check, BHP symptoms describes #1, #2, #3, #4. OAB symptoms cover #1, #4, and #5.

My question or concern is that BHP and OAB are quite similar. Is it possible I might have OAB and not BHP? Or I might have both? Just want to make sure the Terazosin is the right medication to proceed with.

TLDNR:

**If you have visited Antarctica, can you share any tips that are non-standard or not obvious.**

**Which camera focal lengths do you find useful or must-have? And are there different focal lengths used from ship versus on-shore?**

Details:

There are many places that I have visited that I consider once-in-a-lifetime visit. Not because I cannot go again. But due to time limitation and with so many other places I want to go, I will very unlikely visit again. Couple examples are Egypt and Peru.

We just booked Antarctica trip for 2028. This for sure will be once-in-a-lifetime visit, due to the cost and logistics. It is still more than 1 year out, but I like to start planning.

**If you have visited Antarctica, can you share any tips that are non-standard or not obvious.**

Expedition company already provided checklist:

* Clothing
* Eye protection, UV protection, Moisturizer
* Seasickness medication
* Re-usable water bottle
* Binoculars
* Waterproof cell phone case
* Camera gear

I do enjoy photography. Although I have Sony a6400 mirrorless camera, I do not bring this camera on most of my trips. I already moved from FF to mirrorless, but I still find camera too bulky. And my iPhone can do 95% of the travel photos easily. But for this trip, I'm considering bring my camera.

**Which camera focal lengths do you find useful or must-have? And are there different focal lengths used from ship versus on-shore?**

I do not have telephoto lens. These are the lenses I have:

* 16-50mm kit lens
* 35mm F1.8 prime lens
* 10-18mm F4 wide angle lens

Since Ozark Trail is very popular, I just want to share my experience.

I started cycling just around 2 years ago. Started with recreational rides. Then commuting when company required going to back to office 5-days a week.

I started with flat bar hybrid bike, which is very typical of newbies.

In July 2025, I bought Ozark Trail G.1 Explorer. I wanted drop bar because I had to commute into 20 mph headwind. Commute is not short, 14 miles 1-way, and riding 1 hour into strong headwind was very difficult.

The drop bar bike shifted my cycling into different gear (pun intended).

Since then, I have bought 2 additional bikes, neither are budget bikes:

• Trek Checkpoint ALR 5 Gen 3 (now used for commute)
• Trek Checkpoint SL 5 (for weekend recreational rides)

I have ridden G.1 Explorer around 2000 miles in around 6 months, from July 2025 to January 2026. Then for past 6 months, G.1 Explorer is downgraded to the garage. I only use it occasional, when I have to go to library and have to park my bike outside.

https://preview.redd.it/dopqftnm9efh1.png?width=542&format=png&auto=webp&s=810f7f2f7d3a6506c660d14acee7bf744869e17a

Some eye candy of my G.1 Explorer:

Although this was set up as commuter, this was on weekend recreational ride.

Early morning commute. I'm am lucky to ride this very day to work.

SF Bay Trail, with Google and Moffett Field hangar in background.

Same location, but different day. Winter clouds added more dramatic scenery.

I upgraded my commuter setup. I was using backpack tied down to bike rack. Then upgraded to pannier. Soon after this, I retired G.1 Explore as I upgraded my commuter bike.

I'm just curious about Trek OEM saddle that came with my bike.

I purchased Checkpoint ALR 5 Gen 3 last year. Per spec, it should have Verse Short Comp saddle. But it doesn't look like Comp. Instead, it looks like regular Verse saddle. I do like the fit, so last week I purchased retail Verse saddle. But the retail Verse is not exactly the same as the OEM version that came with my bike.

This is the saddle that came with my Checkpoint ALR 5 Gen 3:

• Part number on the rail: 5298136 Chromo.
• Weighs 260g.
• Appearance looks like regular Verse. There is Verse only logo.

https://preview.redd.it/uw7q1cioz3fh1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6a16e884c872039d22295574f58d09a96e032bb3

https://preview.redd.it/par3rszsz3fh1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0f18ccf02b540fce23e127653405895e56d1d566

This is link to Verse Short Comp retail version.

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/cycling-components/bike-saddles/performance-bike-saddles/trek-verse-short-comp-bike-saddle/p/44984/?colorCode=black

This is the retail version of Verse saddle that I bought.

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/cycling-components/bike-saddles/performance-bike-saddles/trek-verse-bike-saddle/p/51461/?colorCode=black

• Part number on the rail: 5333089 Steel
• Weighs 300g (with the light mount removed).
• Side profile of the saddle (viewed from top) is very similar. The top profile (viewed from side) is a bit different. My OEM version has more curvature; retail version is flatter.

Difference is not significant. Just curious what is the OEM saddle that I got.

My Trek Checkpoint ALR developed a clicking noise after around 6 months and 2000 miles.

It has SRAM Apex crank and SRAM DUB Wide/T47 threaded/internal bearing bottom bracket.

LBS did free service and resolved the clicking noise, by greasing the crankset axle.

I'm just wondering how often this needs to be done. Is it something that should be done routinely? Or only when issues (or noise) pop up?'

I'm just thinking about my other bike, which I purchased used. It is 5-6 years old, and I don't know the service history. It doesn't have any issue. Does it make sense to preemptively do preventative maintenance on the crankset axle.

Also, I rarely wash my bike, and I ride on dirt and gravel a lot, but not mud. In the 6 months and 2000 miles, I think I only washed the bike once. So the outside of the bottom bracket is caked in dust. Is it better to wash this area? I believe water can be an issue if it gets in?

I bought KTC A32Q8 Smart Monitor on Amazon Prime Day deal (June 2026) for $216. That is a very good price for 32" 4K UHD Smart Monitor.

I worked on Display at a large computer/phone/electronics maker called A* that makes many products called i*. So I have a lot of experience evaluating displays and monitors, though my experience are IPS with LED or mini-LED backlight.

In terms of display performance, this monitor is actually very good.

• I didn't detect any dead pixels. (I'm quite good at catching dead pixels by eye.)
• It is VA panel. Excellent contrast. Backlight uniformity is good. Compared to IPS.
• I didn't play game on this monitor, as this monitor is for media consumption. So I cannot comment on refresh rate or ghosting. But since this is VA panel, it will not be great for gaming.
• It is not very bright. It is HDR10, which is just marketing BS. Cannot watch HDR content as it is not bright enough. Very typical of budget monitors.
• Color accuracy: I don't have measurement device. There are reviews at cnx-software.com and displayninja.com.
• No. of Colors: The spec info is limited. It seems this monitor is 8-bit+FRC, which is simulated 10-bit but not true 10-bit.

Obviously, as smart monitor, it has build-in TV feature. It has monitor resolution/pixel size, so you can use it as a computer monitor close-up with text. It has smart TV (streaming thru Wifi), like Netflix, Disney+, AppleTV, etc. Only difference between smart TV and regular TV is lack of tuner; so cannot watch broadcast TV. The interface or OS is Google TV. It worked fine.

It can be used as a hub. Has USB-C with display capability, and 4 USB ports (for input accessories and storage).

Onto the negatives. There are couple design or implementation issues affecting user experience. And ultimately, I will return this unit for these issues.

• Unit will go into infinite and repeated power-on loop.
• Monitor periodically cannot be recognized on HDMI or DisplayPort.

Every few days, unit will go into this mode where it will power up by itself. I turn off the power, it will turn on after 1 minute. And repeat. Note this is not due to HDMI CEC, as I have that turned off, and I know how CEC works. The fix is to unplug the power source. So I basically use a power surge protector with on/off button on my desk, so I can easily cut power to the device.

Then other issue with Windows detection is extremely frustrating. Often when computer boots up or goes to sleep and wakes up, monitor is no longer detected. This is not ideal, but I can work around that.
The worst case is that when I'm using Windows and the display will lose connection during use. This is such a pain in the butt.

Sometimes, this can be resolved by turning on/off power or cycle thru inputs. It works sometimes, but not always. But I found that power cycling (cut power to the outlet) will fix this. Since I have the monitor connect to surge protector, I can power cycle the device easily.

But the fact that monitor just randomly disconnects while in use is just not reliable.

Hi, I have question regarding Creatine versus Whey Protein. I'm using creatine right now (5g per day). Should I also take whey protein? In the Wiki, it only talk about protein; there is no mention of creatine.

I'm 56M. 2 years ago, I had T2 diabetes and started strict keto. I lost 35 lbs in 4 months, from 205-210 lbs to 170 lbs.

Then for past 2 years, I was on relaxed keto:

• Around 80g Net Carb
• Around 130g Protein
• Around 120g Fat

My weight has dropped another 5-10 lbs since, to around 160-165 lbs now. The good news is that even though the weight drop is minimal, I noticed my tummy fat is significantly reduced and my muscles are more toned now.

My goal is to prevent muscle loss as I get older.

My current activities:

I bike to work. Around 26 miles each day; 125 miles each week.

I lift weights around once a week. Not really hard core. Something I do within 20-30 minutes.

• Bench press: 125-135 lbs x 50
• Lat pull: 70-80 lbs x 50
• Bicep curl: 20-25 lbs x 50

I have been using Creatine supplement. 5g per day. My understanding is that Creatine can provide some energy boost. But Creatine might not be sufficient for muscle gain (or maintaining muscle). If I'm eating 130g Protein daily, should I supplement with Whey Protein? And should I focus more on Creatine versus Whey Protein?

I have Raceface Chester pedals, ridden around 5000+ miles. One of the pedals (left one) has developed a click. When I jiggle it, it has a slight play, maybe only couple mm along the axle direction.

Is this something that can be fixed just by disassembling and then repacking with grease? Or will it require replacing parts? Or it can be either, so only way to know is to try?

I don't plan on buying the rebuild kit. These pedals cost $25 on sale. The rebuild kit cost more than that.

Over 1 year ago, I upgraded from hybrid bikes to Ozark Trail G.1 Explorer drop bar bike. Then 6-9 months ago, I upgraded to aluminum and then carbon frame gravel bike. I just want to share my experience and my view point.

When people say G.1 Explorer is exceptional value, there is a caveat.

To me, it is the drop bar that provides the exceptional value. The flat bar is still well priced, but not a killer deal.

The drop bar G.1 Explorer is truly exceptional value at $288. If you buy new drop bar gravel bike, you are looking at $900-$1000 for direct to consumer gravel bike. If you buy big bike brands (Specialized, Trek, Giant, etc), you are looking at $1600 minimum. If you buy used, you might get lucky and get a nice drop bar gravel bike at $700. Yes, what you get can be better than G.1 Explorer. But you are looking to spend 3-6x more for new bike, and 2x for used bike.

What about the flat bar G.1 Explorer at $258? If you compare this versus hybrid bikes, the value differences are less. You can buy direct to consumer hybrid bike for slightly more. Even new Trek and Specialized, when on sale, cost $500. And on the used market, you can buy much better hybrid bike (hydraulic disc brakes) for less than $250.

For instance, I bought an used Trek hybrid bike with 3x9 Deore groupset with Shimano hydraulic brakes, with fenders and bike rack, for $225.

Hybrid bikes do have less tire clearance. So typically can fit 28-38mm wide tires. G.1 Explorer does have the advantage that it can fit 45mm tires.

And of course buying new versus used does have time requirement. You can buy new bike anytime (almost, unless it is out of stock). Buying used (right bike, right size, and right price) takes time and effort.

How do we translate bike tire rolling resistance wattage to speed? Do I look at the difference of tire resistance as % of my output? And then apply that % to my speed?

For instance, if I compare 2 tires, one with 25 watt rolling resistance and another with 20 watt. Difference is 5 watts.

Let's say I output 100 watts and ride 15 mph. Then 5 watt difference is 5% of 100 watt output. Does that mean I can ride 5% faster, which means I can increase my speed from 15.0 to 15.75 mph.

I have 2 bikes. Bike A is weekend bike with WTB Nano gravel tires, which has 25 watt rolling resistance. Bike B is commuter with OEM Trek/Bontrager Girona tires. Girona RSL GR retail version has 32 watt rolling resistance; and OEM version is likely even worse.

I get less tired and I can ride faster on Bike A. I don't know if it is due to:

• Bike difference (carbon frame versus aluminum frame)
• Tire difference (25 watt versus 32+ watt rolling resistance)
• Weight difference (commute bike is 15 lbs heavier with bike rack, pannier, backpack, notebook computer, etc)
• Or usage difference (more incentive on fun recreational ride versus commuting to work).

I am thinking about upgrading the tires on Bike B commuter bike.

I'm debating if I should buy Maxxis Rambler gravel tires (25 watt rolling resistance) on sale for $36 USD each. Versus spending 2x more (around $70 each) to buy tires with lower rolling resistance (<20 watt).

[Edit: added more info on the Bald Eagle]

Just want to share some photos from this week's rides. Great weather; perfect for outdoor sports. And beautiful scenery.

Memorial Day: Coyote Point (San Mateo) with View of SFO and Downtown SF

First Time Seeing Bald Eagle in the Wild

Yes, this is my first time seeing Bald Eagle in real life.

This was in Ravenswood in East Menlo Park. Eagle was actually on the trail. When I saw it, I was around 75 feet away. I stopped immediately and try to get my phone out. The eagle is likely not used to humans. When it saw me, it immediately flew away and landed around 300-400 feet away. And even that far away, it kept on glancing toward me. And this photo was taken when it was looking directly at me.

I was surprised on the size. It has massive wingspan. My wingspan is just under 6'. This eagle's wingspan is likely similar to mine. It is definitely the biggest bird I have seen in real life.

View of Coyote Hills (Fremont)

View of Coyote Hills (Fremont)

No Name Trail

Coyote Hills (Fremont)

TLDNR: When I look on Amazon, most seatposts do not list the offset. I have to look at photos. But I have no experience buying or evaluating seatpost. Is there any way to determine the offset from photo? Any recommendations for cheap seatpost that has zero offset?

Details:

Relative new rider (started October 2024), but I have been riding a lot (8k+ miles), most commute miles.

I have been doing my own fit, because I'm too cheap to pay for fit.

When I buy a new bike, I have to adjust the fit, and I gradually get more comfortable.

I bought Trek Checkpoint SL 5 used in February. I recently re-adjusted and dialed in the fit. I lowered the saddle slightly and also move the saddle forward. It now feels really good. Monday was Memorial day holiday. I went for a casual bike ride. I didn't plan on going far. I ended up riding 64 miles, which by far is the longest I have ridden.

Now, I'm dialing in bike I purchased last year (Trek Checkpoint ALR 5 Gen 3) that I use as commuter. I adjusted this ALR 5 to emulate SL 5 geometry, which also means lower the saddle and moving it forward. It is not apple to apple comparison, because the saddles are different and crank lengths are also different. SL 5 has 172.5mm cranks, whereas ALR 5 has 170 mm cranks.

On the ALR 5, I now have my saddle all the way forward, but I think I still need around 2-5mm more. ALR 5 has this seatpost: Bontrager alloy, 27.2mm, 12mm offset, 330mm length.

Any recommendations for cheap seatpost that has zero offset? On Amazon, most seatposts do not list the offset. So not exactly sure how to determine the zero offset or straight seatpost, other than looking at sample photos.

I saw this sales listing this past week.

Noticed the odd handlebar and hood setup. I have seen some people rotate the handlebar upwards. But I have not seen this setup where the handlebar is rotated forward & downward. I wonder if it is for aerodynamics 😉

https://preview.redd.it/mbu29mufez2h1.jpg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b70df381c19b74d81f48f00f48bfefbd9f90d781