u/DaSettingsPNGN

I keep the tools, testing, updates, and community through my socials. My community server is where my bot and the commands live. You can find my server link under my profile.

For quick browser access, just search CNTRL Rivals. That’s where I’m putting the browser versions of the tools and the rest of my controller settings work.

I’ll still make the long guide posts because I like documenting what I find, but the tools are there so you don’t have to do the math yourself.

IMPORTANT: Season 10.5 has reintroduced a bug where having Disable Aim Assist at Max Deadzone turned on makes your aim glidey and uncontrollable. Turn this setting off until they address the bug.

I’ve spent a lot of this season rebuilding how I approach controller settings in Marvel Rivals.

The biggest change is that I’m thinking less in terms of individual numbers and more about how the different systems interact.

For me, that starts with my Dynamic / Classic-Feel curve.

The goal of the curve is simple:

Keep normal aiming controlled and predictable, then save the really fast camera movement for when I deliberately push the stick out to turn.

My Classic-Feel curve gets into the aiming portion of the response relatively early, then holds that response across a large part of the stick.

That gives me a broad area where tracking and corrections stay consistent instead of constantly accelerating underneath me.

Then near the outside of the stick, the response ramps hard into your maximum turn speed.

So I think of it as separating two jobs:

Aim through the middle of the stick. Turn at the outside.

That separation has become even more useful this season because New Aim Assist feels stronger than it did before.

The slowdown can get very heavy, and the camera-follow behavior can hold onto a target extremely well.

More aim assist is not automatically better.

Once the assist becomes too aggressive, your own right-stick input starts competing with it. Corrections can feel heavy, target switching gets harder, and you can end up fighting the slowdown when you’re deliberately trying to move your camera.

Because of that, I think higher Ease-In, lower Strength, or a combination of both makes more sense this season.

How I think about the three main Aim Assist settings

Window Size controls where around the target aim assist gets to interact.

A smaller Window does not necessarily mean weak aim assist. The assist can still be extremely strong once you’re actually on the target. It just keeps that interaction contained to a smaller area.

Strength controls how much influence you’re giving the system.

I don’t think of it as one simple master volume because the different parts of New Aim Assist do not appear to scale identically. Lowering Strength can loosen some of the braking without necessarily making the entire system disappear.

Ease-In controls how aggressively that influence develops.

Lower Ease-In gives you a quicker, harder interaction.

Higher Ease-In brings the assist in more gradually and can make the stronger slowdown this season much easier to manage.

So if New Aim Assist feels good when it catches somebody but too heavy once you’re tracking them:

Raise Ease-In if you want the interaction to come in more gradually.

Lower Strength if the overall grip is still too strong.

Do both if you want a larger reduction while keeping the benefits of New Aim Assist.

My current starting point

I’ve simplified the defaults around a 20 Window.

For Console:

20 Window

100 Strength

100 Ease-In

For PC:

20 Window

100 Strength

80 Ease-In

That difference is intentional.

Console aim assist is stronger, so the higher Ease-In helps balance how aggressively that assistance comes in.

PC gets the same 20 Window and 100 Strength, with a lower Ease-In to keep the weaker PC assist responsive.

These are starting points, not magic settings.

From there, Strength and Ease-In can be adjusted depending on whether you want more grip, easier corrections, or easier target switching.

The curve and Aim Assist work together

This is the part I think matters most.

My Classic-Feel curve gives me a controlled aiming region through most of the stick while keeping fast turning available near the outside.

Then New Aim Assist works inside that aiming behavior.

The curve controls how your stick responds.

Aim Assist controls how the game interacts with a target inside that response.

If the curve is predictable but Aim Assist is too strong, the game can still feel heavy.

If Aim Assist is balanced but your response curve is constantly accelerating underneath you, tracking can still feel inconsistent.

I want both systems doing clearly defined jobs.

Three commands, three different jobs

I’ve built three tools around this, and they are meant for different things.

"!marvelsens" — Build your settings

Use this if you mainly want a complete controller setup.

The bot walks you through the major choices, builds your sensitivity and curve, applies the appropriate aim-assist starting point, and gives you a complete set of settings.

Think of this as:

“Build me a setup.”

\---

"!marvelpsa" — Test what actually feels best

Use this if you don’t know what sensitivity or settings you prefer yet.

Instead of asking you to pick a number from a list, PSA walks you through A/B comparisons. You actually test different settings and keep narrowing them until you find the response that feels right.

There is also an Aim Assist calibration path if you want to test Aim Assist choices rather than simply accepting a preset.

Think of this as:

“Help me find my settings through testing.”

\---

"!marvelaimassist" — Learn and tune New Aim Assist

Use this if you specifically want to understand Aim Assist.

It explains what Window, Strength, and Ease-In are doing, how the settings interact, and lets you build different New Aim Assist combinations around the behavior you want.

This is the one I’d use if your current Aim Assist feels too sticky, too loose, too abrupt, or difficult to disengage from and you want to understand why before changing numbers.

Think of this as:

“Teach me Aim Assist and help me tune it.”

So the short version is:

"!marvelsens" = Build

"!marvelpsa" = Calibrate

"!marvelaimassist" = Learn + Tune

I hope this helps you all! Thank you!

💜🐧💜

Original vs X-Dynamic: My Updated Marvel Rivals Controller Curves - Fluid and Precise

I've explained pieces of these curves in other posts, but I wanted one post specifically about the difference between Original and X-Dynamic, especially since both have changed recently.

I also want to explain Fluid vs Precise, because that's a separate choice from the curve itself and I don't think I've made that distinction clear enough before.

No math here. This is just what they're doing to the stick, how they feel, and why you might prefer one over another.

---

## The basic idea behind both curves

The problem I'm trying to solve is pretty simple:

The sensitivity I want while I'm aiming isn't necessarily the sensitivity I want when I'm trying to turn around.

If I make the whole stick fast, normal aiming and tracking get harder.

If I make the whole stick slow, turning around gets harder.

So both curves separate those jobs.

Your Aim Speed is basically the Horizontal Sensitivity you would normally want to aim with on a regular setup.

Then the very outside edge of the stick is allowed to go much faster when you actually need to turn.

So instead of constantly increasing speed all the way from center to edge, the goal is roughly:

fine movement → normal aiming speed → fast turn at the edge

Original and X-Dynamic do that differently.

---

## Original

Original is the more linear-feeling of the two.

It uses roughly:

0-50% stick: progressively builds your aiming speed

50-99%: stays around your chosen Aim Speed

99-100%: fast turn

The first half of the stick gives you a lot of room to control speed directly with your thumb.

Push a little farther and you get a little more speed. Keep pushing and it continues building in a pretty natural way until you reach the speed you actually want to aim with.

After that, it stays much more consistent until the very edge.

That's why Original tends to make more sense if you're already used to Linear.

It preserves more of that direct feeling where moving the stick farther gives you a fairly even increase in speed. You're still getting the benefits of separating normal aiming from the fast turn, but the way you build speed through the stick should feel more familiar to a Linear player.

---

## X-Dynamic

X-Dynamic feels different.

It generally feels slower and more controlled through normal aiming, and closer to a Classic controller response.

It uses roughly:

0-33% stick: builds through the initial aiming range

33-99%: stays around your normal aiming speed

99-100%: fast turn

Compared with Original, X-Dynamic spends less of the stick continuously increasing speed.

It settles down earlier and stays much more consistent through the rest of normal stick movement.

That is the main thing I like about it.

You can move your thumb farther without the game constantly changing your aiming speed underneath you.

For tracking, that can make the stick feel calmer and more predictable.

That's also why I'd generally point somebody coming from Classic toward X-Dynamic first. Classic players are already used to a slower, more controlled response through normal aiming, and X-Dynamic is much closer to that kind of feel.

Then if you actually need to turn quickly, you push all the way to the edge.

---

## Why X-Dynamic moved from 50 to 33

My older X-Dynamic curve started that steady aiming section around 50.

After comparing it more closely with the behavior I was actually trying to create, I realized the middle of the curve was still too fast and too similar to Original.

Moving it to 33 gave X-Dynamic a much clearer identity.

Original keeps a longer, more gradual increase in speed.

X-Dynamic settles into its normal aiming behavior much sooner.

That also explains why the actual curve values for X-Dynamic can look lower than Original even when they're built around the same intended Aim Speed.

You can't just compare the numbers directly and assume the lower number means the whole setup is slower.

The curves are using those values differently.

---

## The bigger recent change: 99

Both curves now keep normal aiming behavior almost all the way to the edge of the stick.

The fast-turn section starts at 99.

This was a pretty important change.

Previously I was giving too much of the outside of the stick to acceleration.

But if I'm at 85% or 90% stick while following somebody, I'm still trying to aim. I don't necessarily want the game deciding I suddenly want a fast turn just because my thumb moved farther out.

So now the very outside edge has a much clearer job.

Original:

0-50: progressively build speed

50-99: stay around Aim Speed

99-100: fast turn

X-Dynamic:

0-33: progressively build speed

33-99: stay around Aim Speed

99-100: fast turn

Both curves agree on where the fast turn happens now.

The difference is what happens before that.

---

## Original vs X-Dynamic

The easiest way I can describe the difference now is:

Original feels more linear and direct.

X-Dynamic feels slower through normal aiming and closer to Classic.

Original lets the speed keep developing farther through the stick.

X-Dynamic settles down much earlier.

With Original, your thumb has more direct control over different aiming speeds.

With X-Dynamic, the curve does more work to keep normal aiming consistent.

So as a simple starting point:

If you normally use Linear, I'd try Original first.

If you normally use Classic, I'd try X-Dynamic first.

That doesn't mean you're locked into one or the other. It's just the most natural place to start based on what you're already used to.

I don't consider one universally better.

They're two different ways of dividing the same stick.

---

## Fluid vs Precise

This is separate from Original vs X-Dynamic.

You can use Fluid or Precise with either curve.

The easiest way to think about it is:

Original vs X-Dynamic changes the overall shape and behavior of the stick.

Fluid vs Precise changes how that response feels while you're aiming.

### Fluid

Fluid is smoother and more gradual.

Changes in stick position blend into each other more gently, so tracking feels less abrupt.

If you like smooth sustained movement and don't want every tiny stick change to feel too sharp, Fluid makes more sense.

It's the softer of the two.

### Precise

Precise is tighter and more direct.

Changes in stick position feel more immediate, and the aiming response feels more firmly defined.

That doesn't mean it's objectively more accurate. It's just a different feel.

If Fluid feels a little too soft or loose, Precise gives you more immediate feedback from the stick.

---

## So there are really four combinations

Original + Fluid

More linear speed progression with a smoother overall response.

Original + Precise

More linear speed progression with a tighter, more direct response.

X-Dynamic + Fluid

Slower and steadier normal aiming with smoother transitions.

X-Dynamic + Precise

The controlled X-Dynamic response with a firmer and more immediate feel.

So I would choose the curve first, then choose the feel.

If you're coming from Linear, Original is probably the easier starting point.

If you're coming from Classic, X-Dynamic is probably the easier starting point.

Then use Fluid or Precise to tune how that curve actually feels under your thumb.

---

## Why use Original?

Use Original if you like controlling more of your aiming speed directly with your thumb.

It feels more linear because the stick continues building speed for longer before settling down.

That gives you more variation between a tiny correction, a medium movement, and a larger aiming movement.

If you already use Linear, this is the one I'd try first. The progression through the stick should feel more familiar, while still giving you the separate fast-turn section at the edge.

---

## Why use X-Dynamic?

Use X-Dynamic if you care more about keeping normal aiming consistent.

It gets through the changing-speed portion of the stick earlier and stays calmer through most of the rest of your aiming range.

That's why I describe it as slower and closer to Classic.

If you already use Classic, this is the one I'd try first. It keeps more of that controlled normal-aiming feel, but still gives you the fast turn when you deliberately push to the edge.

For tracking-heavy aim, that's the behavior I prefer.

---

## Aim assist has changed too

I've also changed how I'm approaching New Aim Assist.

There are three main settings I care about:

Window Size

Strength

Ease-In

They're doing different jobs, so I think it makes more sense to think about them separately instead of treating aim assist as one strength slider.

### Window Size

The current Build Your Own choices are:

Small - 15

Medium - 25

Large - 35

Window Size controls how much space around the target can activate the aim assist.

A smaller window is more selective. You have to get closer to the target before the assist starts interacting with it.

A larger window starts interacting sooner and gives you more room around the target, but it can also become more noticeable when multiple enemies are close together.

So Window is basically deciding:

How close do I want to be before aim assist gets involved?

---

## Strength

The current Build Your Own choices are:

Flexible - 80

Balanced - 90

Firm - 100

Strength controls how strongly aim assist slows and holds your aim once you're interacting with the target.

Lower Strength leaves more freedom for your right stick.

Higher Strength makes the assist hold more firmly.

So Window and Strength aren't doing the same thing.

Window decides when aim assist starts interacting.

Strength decides how strongly it interacts once you're there.

You can have a larger Window without necessarily wanting maximum Strength, or a smaller Window with a very firm hold.

That's why I like separating the two.

---

## Ease-In

The current Build Your Own choices are:

Snappy - 40

Balanced - 60

Smooth - 80

Ease-In controls how quickly the aim assist builds once you enter the Window.

Lower Ease-In feels quicker and more immediate.

Higher Ease-In brings the slowdown in more gradually.

So Ease-In is basically shaping the transition between having no assist and having the full amount of assist you've chosen.

That gives the three settings pretty clear jobs:

Window = when it starts

Strength = how strong it gets

Ease-In = how it gets there

That makes it much easier to tune one thing at a time instead of changing everything together.

---

## Disable Aim Assist at Max Deadzone: ON

I also keep Disable Aim Assist at Max Deadzone turned ON.

This works especially well with the way I'm using 99 on the response curve.

Most of the stick is for aiming.

The very outside edge is for turning.

When I deliberately push all the way out, I don't want aim assist fighting that turn.

So the curve and this setting have matching jobs:

Before the edge, I'm aiming and I want aim assist available.

At the edge, I'm trying to turn and I want the stick free to move.

That separation feels much cleaner to me.

---

## Close-Range Aim Assist: ON

I also keep Close-Range Aim Assist turned ON.

I still want aim assist doing its job when somebody gets close. Turning it off at Max Deadzone isn't the same thing as turning it off at close range.

These two settings actually work well together.

Close-Range Aim Assist ON keeps the assist available when the fight gets close.

Disable at Max Deadzone ON gives me a way to deliberately break out of that assist when I push the stick all the way over for a turn.

So I can still have strong close-range tracking without making the outside edge of the stick feel trapped.

That's especially useful with New Aim Assist because it already holds targets strongly.

---

## How the aim assist settings work together

The easiest way I can describe the whole thing is:

Window decides when aim assist starts.

Strength decides how firmly it holds.

Ease-In decides how quickly that hold builds.

Close-Range Aim Assist keeps it active when enemies get close.

Disable at Max Deadzone gives the outside edge back to you when you're trying to turn.

That's why I don't think any one of these settings makes sense in isolation.

A bigger Window can feel completely different depending on Strength and Ease-In.

High Strength can feel much cleaner with a smoother Ease-In.

A very responsive setup can work without ruining fast turns because Disable at Max Deadzone gives you a clear escape at the edge.

They work together as a system.

---

## Current system

Original: more linear and direct. If you normally use Linear, start here.

X-Dynamic: slower and steadier through normal aiming. If you normally use Classic, start here.

Fluid: smoother and more gradual.

Precise: tighter and more direct.

99: normal aiming continues almost all the way to the edge. The final edge is reserved for the fast turn.

Aim Assist Window:

15 / 25 / 35

Aim Assist Strength:

80 / 90 / 100

Aim Assist Ease-In:

40 / 60 / 80

Disable Aim Assist at Max Deadzone:

ON

Close-Range Aim Assist:

ON

If you've used one of my older guides, this is the version I'd go by now.

I keep the current settings and tools updated in my community server, which you can find through my socials. You can also search CNTRL Rivals online to read about the curves and build the settings directly in your browser.

My Current New Aim Assist: 15 / 95 / 80

My current PNGN Personal aim assist is:

Aim Assist Type: New

Window Size: 15

Strength: 95

Ease-In: 80

Disable Aim Assist at Max Deadzone: ON

Close-Range Aim Assist: ON

Character Movement Deadzones: 5 / 75

What I like about this setup is the balance between strong rotational/camera-follow behavior and not making the right-stick slowdown unnecessarily heavy.

One of the more important things I found in testing is that those two parts of New Aim Assist do not scale together normally.

When Strength comes down, the slowdown or braking effect drops much more readily than the rotational/camera-follow behavior does. In my larger Strength test, dropping from 99 to 50 cut the modeled slowdown by about half, while the measured follow behavior only dropped by about 28%.

So I don't really think of Strength as one master aim-assist volume anymore.

That's why I like 95 instead of 100.

I'm only backing Strength off slightly, but it loosens some of that grip when I'm moving the right stick without meaningfully giving up the rotational behavior I'm trying to keep. The assist still follows and helps preserve alignment, it just doesn't feel quite as locked down.

Then 80 Ease-In softens how abruptly that slowdown arrives, while the 15 Window keeps the interaction area relatively tight.

The other important part is having Close-Range Aim Assist ON and Disable Aim Assist at Max Deadzone ON together.

Close-Range keeps the extra control when somebody is right on top of me, which is exactly where I want that help.

But if I push the right stick all the way out, Disable at Max Deadzone gives me a clean way through it. I can still have strong close-range assist during normal aiming without getting stuck in massive slowdown when I'm clearly trying to make a hard camera movement.

So the setup ends up working in layers:

New Aim Assist gives me the behavior I'm building around.

15 Window keeps the assist contained.

95 Strength loosens the braking without throwing away the rotational behavior.

80 Ease-In makes that braking come in more gradually.

Close-Range ON keeps the extra control up close.

Disable at Max ON lets full-stick movement break free when I actually want to turn.

That's the balance I'm after with New Aim Assist at 15 / 95 / 80. Strong rotational help and close-range control, but less unnecessary grip when I'm actively trying to move the camera.

If you want to build your own instead of just copying mine, use:

"!marvelaimassist"

It walks you through the New Aim Assist settings and helps you build around the behavior you actually want.

You can find the command in my community server through my socials, or search CNTRL Rivals online to find the site, server links, and the rest of my controller settings work.

I've been testing New Aim Assist pretty heavily lately, and I think I finally have a better way of describing what the settings are actually doing.

I've posted pieces of this in other places, but I wanted one post that puts the current findings together because I also rebuilt my aim assist builder around them.

The command is:

`!marvelaimassist`

This isn't really a "here are the three best numbers" post.

The main thing I've learned is that New Aim Assist doesn't seem to behave like one single effect that you simply turn up or down.

---

**The biggest thing I noticed**

I think there are at least two different behaviors getting mixed together when people talk about aim assist:

**Slowdown / braking**

and

**Camera follow**

They can feel similar while you're playing because both can help keep your crosshair on somebody, but they aren't really the same thing.

The slowdown is easiest to see when you're actively moving the right stick through a target.

You're still giving the game stick input, but once you're interacting with the target, considerably less camera movement actually gets through.

The target starts resisting your input.

That's a large part of why New Aim Assist can feel so sticky.

But I was also seeing something else.

With character movement involved, the camera could actually move along with the target in a way that slowdown alone doesn't really explain.

That's the part that changed how I started looking at the system.

---

**Character movement seems to matter**

The camera-follow behavior was strongest for me with partial character movement.

With no movement, it dropped off.

At full movement, it also dropped off.

That makes me think the left stick isn't completely separate from what New Aim Assist is doing.

It looks like your movement state can affect the conditions where that follow behavior happens.

I'm still testing this part, so I don't want to claim I've completely mapped it yet.

But it's enough that I no longer think Character Movement Deadzones should automatically be treated as completely separate from aim assist.

If the game responds differently depending on how much movement it's detecting, those deadzones can potentially change when you're entering the movement range where that follow behavior is strongest.

That's why I included them in the builder.

---

**Window Size makes more sense to me now too**

I used to think of Window Size pretty simply:

Big window = more aim assist.

Small window = less aim assist.

I don't think that's the best way to look at it.

A better description is:

**Window Size decides how much space around the target gets to interact with aim assist.**

When I made the window much smaller, the assist could still be very strong once I was actually on the target.

So a small window doesn't necessarily mean weak aim assist.

It means the game is being more selective about **where it starts helping you**.

That's an important difference.

It's also why I've moved toward smaller windows compared to some of my older setups.

I'd rather have strong assist where I actually want it than a very large area around somebody constantly interacting with my aim.

---

**Strength isn't just a master volume**

This one surprised me.

I expected Strength to behave like a normal percentage slider.

100 is full aim assist.

50 is roughly half.

That isn't really what my testing looked like.

I could lower Strength considerably and still retain noticeable follow and slowdown behavior.

Strength obviously matters, but it doesn't seem like every part of New Aim Assist scales neatly together with that one number.

That's another reason I stopped thinking of New Aim Assist as one single force.

There are different behaviors overlapping.

---

**Ease-In was much easier to understand**

Ease-In behaved closer to what the name suggests.

Lower Ease-In feels more immediate and aggressive.

Higher Ease-In makes the interaction come in more gradually.

In my testing, increasing Ease-In noticeably softened the braking.

So the way I think about the main three settings now is:

**Window Size:** where aim assist can interact

**Strength:** how much influence it has

**Ease-In:** how aggressively that influence comes in

That's not meant to be a perfect technical definition.

It's just the most useful way I've found to think about them while actually building settings.

---

**Then there are the other settings people tend to ignore**

I also included:

**Disable Aim Assist at Max Deadzone**

**Close-Range Aim Assist**

**Character Movement Deadzones**

because I don't think those should just be buried underneath the three obvious sliders.

Disable Aim Assist at Max Deadzone is especially useful conceptually.

If you turn it on, pushing your aim stick all the way out can become a deliberate "I'm trying to turn now" input.

That gives you a way to break away from aim assist when you're intentionally giving maximum stick.

Leave it off and the assist can continue interacting even while you're at full input.

I don't think everybody necessarily wants the same behavior there, so I made it a choice.

---

**Close-Range Aim Assist is something I still want to isolate more**

One limitation with my current footage is that a lot of the testing was done with Close-Range Aim Assist enabled.

So I'm not going to pretend I've perfectly separated that from everything else yet.

The behavior I'm describing happened with it on.

That's something I want to test more directly next, especially the movement-follow behavior.

---

**This is why I rebuilt the aim assist builder**

Once I started looking at New Aim Assist this way, just handing somebody three numbers felt incomplete.

There are actually a number of different questions you're answering:

How close to a target should aim assist start interacting?

How hard do you want it to grab?

How quickly should that grab come in?

Do you want full stick input to break out of aim assist?

Do you want the extra close-range behavior?

Where do you want character movement to start and reach full input?

Those are actual choices.

So that's what the new builder is based around.

Run:

`!marvelaimassist`

and it walks you through building a New Aim Assist setup instead of just asking you to copy mine.

---

**My current setup**

For reference, my current PNGN Personal aim assist is:

**Window: 15**

**Strength: 100**

**Ease-In: 70**

But the whole point of the builder is that I don't think everyone should automatically use that.

Someone who wants easier target switching may want something very different from somebody who wants the assist to hold as aggressively as possible.

The useful part is understanding what you're changing.

---

**The short version of everything I've found so far**

I think New Aim Assist makes more sense if you stop thinking about it as one strength slider.

There's a strong right-stick braking effect.

There's also camera-follow behavior that appears to interact with character movement.

Window Size changes where the interaction happens.

Strength changes how much influence you're giving it.

Ease-In changes how that influence comes in.

And the movement/deadzone settings may matter more than I originally thought.

There's definitely more testing to do, especially around Close-Range Aim Assist and the movement-follow behavior, but this model explains what I've been seeing in the footage much better than "bigger number = stronger aim assist."

If you want to test it yourself, the builder is:

`!marvelaimassist`

I keep the current tools and updates in my community server, which you can find through my socials.

You can also search **CNTRL Rivals** online for the browser tools and the rest of my controller settings work.

So I usually make a long guide post. I'm still going to — but if you'd rather get updates when they drop, the community server is the fastest way. The bot lives there, and that's where I post everything first. I'd love to have you.

Hey all. It's been a while since I've posted my controller curve aim settings. This is the best-received work I've ever made. I really hope it helps you. The math got a full rework since the last guide — simpler, cleaner, and the bot does all of it.

---

YOU DON'T HAVE TO DO THE MATH ANYMORE.

The bot lives in my server. Join, and it'll walk you through your whole setup. Three ways to use it:

The easy way — just run:

!marvelsens

The bot DMs you a quick wizard and asks three things:

- Aim assist feel — PNGN, Lock, Snap, Smooth, or Glide (more on these below — Season 9 changed the game here)

- Turn speed — 400 (Slow), 500 (Standard), or 600 (Boosted)

- Aiming speed — the sensitivity you want to track targets at. It caps at your base turn: 300 on Slow, 400 on Standard, 500 on Boosted.

Tap your answers, hit Submit, and it builds your complete, copy-ready settings page right in the channel — five pages including a graph of your actual response curve.

The quick way — if you already know your number:

!marvelsens 250

That gives you a curve that feels like 250 while you aim, with a 500 turn speed at max deadzone for fast turns. Want a different curve type or turn speed? Just add them: !marvelsens 250 linear boosted.

Want to see a finished setup first?

!marvelsens PNGN

Shows my exact personal settings, top to bottom, so you can see a complete working build before you make your own. My personal preset is also selectable right in the wizard now.

As long as my phone isn't dead (the whole bot runs 24/7 on my phone) or I'm not mid-edit, it's always up. Want to learn the variants or need a hand? Just @ me!

---

Understanding what it's doing

You don't need this part to use the bot — but I like the theory, so here's why.

Your Turnaround Zone is your turn speed — what you feel at max deadzone when you whip the stick to spin around fast.

Your Target Zone is your aim speed — what you feel while you're actually aiming, before max deadzone.

So the curve spends most of its range in your comfy aiming speed, then ramps hard at the very end for fast turns. Example: aim at 250, turn at 500. Most of the curve is that smooth 250 for accuracy; the sharp spike at the end is the 500 for spinning around.

---

The math (new this season)

Two rules. That's the whole curve now.

Max Dual Zone Curve = your aiming speed divided by (turn speed / 100).

On a 300 turn that's divide by 3. On 400, divide by 4. On 500, divide by 5.

Which means your Max Dual Zone Curve is literally your aim speed as a percentage of your turn speed. My personal build aims at 180 on a 400 turn: 180 / 4 = 45. I'm aiming at 45% of my turn speed, and the curve value says exactly that. No lookup tables, no unit conversions — the number means something you can read.

Min Curve Statics = Max Dual Zone Curve minus 1. That's it.

Shape-wise: the curve climbs to your aiming speed early in the stick, holds it flat across most of your range, then spikes to your turn speed right at the end. Flat where you aim, sharp where you turn.

The bot snaps your aiming speed to the nearest multiple of (turn speed / 100) — steps of 3, 4, or 5 — which is exactly what keeps both curve values whole numbers. It's the only rounding left in the system, and it never moves your number by more than a couple points.

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The settings (the bot fills this in for you)

When you run it, the bot hands you every value ready to paste into Marvel Rivals. Here's what it sets and why:

Sensitivity and curve

- Horizontal and Vertical Sensitivity — set from your chosen turn speed. I like keeping vertical a percentage of horizontal; 56% (16:9) matches the aspect ratio of most TVs/monitors. Prefer identical vertical and horizontal? The settings page now prints the 1 to 1 value right under it — just use that instead. Your choices are 500 horizontal with 280 or 500 vertical, 400 horizontal with 224 or 400 vertical, or 300 horizontal with 168 or 300 vertical.

- Curve type — First, under Advanced, set curve type to Dual Zone S Curve.

- Custom Min Range — 50, Custom Max Range — 95.

- Min Curve Statics and Max Dual Zone Curve — these two ARE your curve. See the math section above; the bot computes both.

Deadzones and response

- Eye-Gaze Min Deadzone — 1 if your sticks are clean. Drifting when you're not touching the stick? 2 for small drift, 3 for large. Eye-Gaze Max Deadzone — 0.

- Max Deadzone Response Time — 0. Your turn boost engages the instant you hit max deadzone. No waiting on it.

- Max Deadzone Latency Response — 0.

- Max Deadzone Boost — the bot adds this automatically. It's what turns, for example, a 400 base into a 500 turn right at max deadzone, so your spins stay quick. 100 Horizontal boost, 56 Vertical boost, or 100 Vertical boost if you chose the 1 to 1 scaling earlier for Vertical Sensitivity.

Character Movement

- Min 20, Max 50 — keeps your movement responsive without drifting.

Set these however you like (personal preference)

- Swap Sticks / Invert Horizontal / Invert Vertical — your call (most people leave them off).

- Close-Range Aim Assist — on or off, up to you. Helpful for aiming when on, but slows movement as well.

- Vibration — your choice. Good for feedback, annoying if it nudges you off target.

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Aim assist feel — and the new Season 9 aim assist type

Season 9 added an Aim Assist Type setting: Classic and New. Classic is the system we've all been playing on — the familiar slowdown-plus-tracking assist. New locks hard onto a single target. Very strong, very accurate — but that grip is also its weakness: it's hard to disengage, and switching targets fights you.

The presets are built around exactly that tradeoff. The bot rolls window, strength, and ease-in into one "feel," and my personal one runs on a counterintuitive trick:

PNGN — new assist · wide, balanced ramp

Lock — new assist · small, extreme ramp

Snap — new assist · small, fast ramp\n'

Smooth — new assist · medium, medium ramp

Glide — new assist · wide, slow ramp

This is the setting you're most likely to play with.

EDIT: I have revamped the aim assist system to use exclusively New aim assist type, as I genuinely think it is better.

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In summary: once you're set up, the only things you'll ever touch again are your aiming speed and your aim assist feel. Everything else is done for you. Let the bot do the work — that's why I built it.

The bot link is on my profile, and it lives in the server (Social Links to join).

Let me know how it goes — I really hope this helps! Questions, or want me to explain any of the curve choices? Reach out here or on any platform under the same username.

Thank you!

💜🐧💜