Fighter jets?
I just saw 2 fighter jets flying overhead. anyone know what they’re doing?
I just saw 2 fighter jets flying overhead. anyone know what they’re doing?
HI Everyone,
I'm completely new to ComfyUI and am looking for help speeding up SeedVR2.
My hardware specs are quite low and I have a feeling there's not much I can do, but figured I'd post here anyway and see if there's any tweaks that can speed this up at all.
I'm running the ComfyUI desktop application on Windows 11 with AMD Ryzen 7 5800X 8-Core, 16GB DDR4, and AMD Radeon RX 7600 (8 GB).
I'm trying to use it to clean up some old, poor quality community theatre recordings that I have, but it's taking a long time.
Currently, I'm processing a 20 minute clip with 36881 frames and it's on batch 9 of 185 and has been running for approximately 12 hours. I still have 3 more 20 minute clips to process for this one video.
I included screenshots with my settings and hopefully someone can offer some suggestions as to how I can speed it up.
Again, I realize that my hardware specs and pretty poor and I have a feeling I'm out of luck, but figured I would check here anyway.
Hi Everyone,
I'm working on an old tri-hull that developed a soft floor over the winter. I've been doing a lot of reading and watching videos on how to repair it properly, and I thought I had a pretty good understanding of the process.
From what I've learned, the typical approach is:
That all made sense to me until I pulled up the old plywood and saw how the boat was previously repaired. There doesn't appear to be any resin on the floor at all, except where the pieces were joined together, and the stringers only have fiberglass running partway up their sides.
The way the previous owners fixed it looks like a much cheaper and faster approach, but I can't help thinking it's a bit of a hack job that would lead to premature rot. On the other hand, maybe it's considered acceptable for a boat like this.
I'm wondering which method I should use. My gut says to do it properly and be done with it, but if the simpler method is acceptable, it would certainly be easier and cheaper.
For some background, I don't plan on keeping this boat long-term. I bought it at the end of last season mainly for the trailer, but the boat floats and I got the motor running great. Since it's usable, I'll keep it until I get tired of it and then most likely scrap it when I'm done.
Hey Everyone,
I had this printing for 2 days and when I came home, this happened. I thought maybe the print came loose and moved on the build plate, but it was still attached and centered. I'm at a loss and don't really want to try printing it again until I know how to prevent it.
I'm not sure what other info to include. The printer was originally an Elegoo Neptune 2s, but has had many upgrades done in the last couple of years. It has a new board (BTT Octopus v1.1), new stepper drivers, new extruder, hotend, and thermisters. For a slicer, I'm using UltiMaker Cura V 5.9.0 and printing with ASA filament.
Can someone recommend a 2-in-1-out hot end that works well and is compatible with an Ender 3?
The main reason is that I want to use separate material for support and I've tried a few different hotends off of amazon, but they all seem to constantly clog.
Hey Everyone,
I’m fixing up an old boat and the wiring is a mess. I’m planning on rewiring everything with proper fuses and rocker switches and I would like to color code the wires. Other than the standard red and black for the main 12v coming from the battery, is there any color code standards that people use or do I just pick the colors that I want?