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I really don’t feel an indent when I rub my fingers over it. Only really noticed it once I threw the mineral spirits on. Anyone see something like this before?

I’ve been sanding with 400 between coats and my original plan was to use 400 then 600 after thr last coat but I’ve noticed after sanding the poly turns into a little white chalky material. I usually wipe with mineral spirits to get that off but is the best route for an ultra smooth finish after the last coat dries to sand with 400 then 600 then wipe with mineral spirits and then buff with a brown paper bag?

How do I fix this? Or what causes this?

Never used walnut before

Picture 1: possible mold?

Picture 2: right after wiping with white vinegar.

The cabinet was laying on my concrete basement floor while I’ve been applying some final touches. It sat there for roughly 1.5-2 weeks but the actual back panel wasn’t on the surface because there is a dado cut.

So really the cabinet sides were elevating the back panel off the ground 3/4 of an inch.

Afraid vinegar won’t kill all the mold (if it is mold) to then set these cabinets and anchor them to the wall with a possible mold issue.

First cabinets I’ve built myself. My dad has helped me in the past with others. First time trying horizontal grain match as well.

Cut my door a little short and thinking of doubling up the edge banding on the ends to gain an extra 1/16. Will that work or am I an idiot for even thinking this?

I’ll have 2 31 inch wide cabinets next to each other. Filler pieces on both sides. The face of the filler will sit flush with the face of the doors once installed.

I’m using 1/8 inch reveals. For my outside doors that will be next to the fillers I did a reveal of 1/8 and for the doors in the middle connecting the 2 cabinets I did 1/16 for both since one door in the middle will have 1/16 and the other door will have the same for a total of 1/8.

Divided my outside cabinet width by 2 getting 15.5. For the outside doors I took 15.5-1/8(outer reveal)-1/16 (for gap between two doors) and -1/16 for two piece of iron on veneer.

For the inside doors I did 15.5-1/16(reveal)-1/16(gap between 2 doors) -1/16 for veneer.

However my cut came out a little crooked and I’m about 1/8 inch off in width. My outside door is 1/8 smaller in width than my inside door.

My initial thinking is the doors will just need different boring distances for the hinge cups to accommodate this. Worried I made a mistake have 2 different door widths

I’m working on a row of cabinets. Doing horizontal grain so everything is already cut and flows nice.

Slab doors, full overlay, with a 1/2 inch reveal at the top to get some space between the bottom of the counter and the top of the door.

When I cut my wood for the doors, I ripped the board to that height. One thing I didn’t account for was that the filler strips should be all the way up the bottom of the counter.

Because I can just raise the filler piece without throwing off the grain flow and also it would also be too short on the bottom, I’m ultimately 1/2 inch short at the top.

Potential idea: I have some walnut that I was just going to cut a 1/2 inch section and glue it to the top of the filler. This closes the gap at the top without messing up the grain but will be different. Seems like choosing between the lesser of 2 evils: have a 1/2 inch gap or just throw a piece of matching walnut and hope the shadows of the counter hide it.

Additionally the right side of my cabinet run will 90 to more cabinets since it’s the corner. If I leave a gap here (at both corners) I think it will be more noticeable.

Another question as is close in on finishing here, I decided I wanted to switch from wing to inline. I have many more cabinets to build but so far I only have 1 cabinet pre drilled liked this to accept winged mounting plates.

Since inline uses holes in a different location can I just simply fill these old pilot holes with wood filler? Any possible other fix? It’s pre finished plywood so I really can drill a 5mm holes and dowel and sand. I suppose I could if I was extra careful but looking for advice on what a pro what do.

Thanks

Planning to add a filler strip for my section of cabinets. The end will be up against a wall. Do I attach another piece of plywood to the left side of the cabinet (as shown here) and then glue the actual filler strip to that?

Another option I was thinking about doing is joining the two piece with a biscuit and then just screwing it to the cabinet from the inside of the drawer once it’s set at the correct location (after scribing)

I have the tip on devices for movento and it’s super hard to access a part of the tip on device if it’s mounted directly on the bottom. Just wanted to make sure if I use a 1/4 inch sheet as a spacer to get off the ground it wouldn’t be an issue

Using Blum movento under mount slides with the added tip on blumotion so all my drawer faces with my touch to open and won’t have any handles.

My drawer boxes are 9 inches tall. Drawer faces are 15 inches tall.

With help determining X and Y I could put together my A B and C measurements. Does have X distance be about 1 inch make sense or should the drawer box be mounted a little higher to the drawer face?

Can’t seem to find it for purchase anywhere. Based on the US and all online dealers are only selling the hinge mounting plate with the 5mm dowels attached

Looking for part number 173H7100 in onyx color.