r/finishing

▲ 0 r/finishing+1 crossposts

Plywood Countertop

I am installing 1” Baltic birch plywood as a countertop and am unsure what route to take for finishing. For context it will not be used as a cutting board/chopping block. And it is going to stay the natural color. I like the look of having a thick polyurethane coat on top.

I’ve seen lots of recommendations for osmo polyx or top oil. And as far as I can tell are one stop shops for oil and wax. Does it leave a clear coat on tops that builds up with multiple coats? Should I be applying this and then a carnauba wax?

Is there a different product that would work better?

Is going with a thing or walnut then a beeswax a better option?

I am leaning towards a matte finish. I know that whatever finish I go with will make it look wet. I know I have to oil under the counter top and apply 1-2 more coats on the edges as they absorb more.

I’m looking for some opinions on the matter, this is not my day job and after research I’m more confused than when I started.

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u/Complex_Rooster3903 — 6 hours ago
▲ 170 r/finishing+1 crossposts

You guys asked for an update on my previous post on the completion of me major work so here it is!

Unfortunately, I did have to rush the finishing of my project due to my HSC Trial exam study messing up my schedule, but fortunately I was able to finish it in time with no issues! For any of you wondering I used Sample73 a hard wax oil finish developed by FourEyes Furniture a great YouTuber I recommend you all watch.

u/notIncognito1 — 19 hours ago
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Can i tackle this project on my own?

I want to sand and stain the wood on my door, windows and garage i also want to seal it. How could i go about this? What is the realistic cost and how long should i expect it to take?

u/ColdTurbos — 20 hours ago
▲ 11 r/finishing+2 crossposts

Refinished a glass front cabinet from light honey to near black, kept the interior natural

Client cabinet, not mine. Came in solid, no repairs needed, they just didn't like the color anymore.

Stripped the whole exterior and re-toned it to a dark slate. Looks basically black indoors, goes blue-gray when the sun hits it. Left the interior in the original cherry on purpose so it still glows through the glass. That contrast was the whole point of the job.

Took all the panes and hardware out before starting. On glazed doors thats not optional in my opinion, you can always see where somebody masked around fixed glass, theres a ridge at the muntin and it never looks right.

Only tricky part was keeping the molding profile even. End grain on those profiles drinks color faster than the flat faces so you have to build it up slow or you get blotching in the coves.

Anyway, happy with how the two tone landed. Curious if anyone else does the dark outside light inside thing on glazed pieces or if you tend to take the interior dark too.

u/G_Michaels_Restores — 17 hours ago

Complete woodworking/finishing noob: How should I approach resurfacing these old speakers?

I’ve had these 1966 Klipsch H700’s since I was ~13 and they’ve always looked a little beat up, so I figured it was finally time to look into resurfacing them. I couldn’t really find a simple/cohesive guide, and I intend to hold onto these so I really want to make sure I don’t mess them up. For some context, i’m in college and don’t have immediate access to a garage/workbench or anything of that nature, but I should be able to get a rotary polisher from a family friend if that would be useful. From my very limited understanding, I think I should be sanding them down, applying wood stain (maybe?), and then a top coat/sealant? I hope to keep things on a fairly small budget if possible, but I really don’t know where to start/what to buy. If someone could point me in the right direction or give me some steps that would be greatly appreciated.

u/Friendly-Note-1112 — 1 day ago
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gel stain or regular stain to get this oak dresser dark? also do we have to strip it

This is my first refinishing project and I’m not doing the work myself — a friend’s brother is handling it, and I don’t think he’s done many pieces. So I’m trying to make sure the plan is solid before anything starts.

What I’ve been going back and forth on:

1.    Gel stain vs. penetrating oil stain for getting oak this dark without blotching. And which of these I’m considering would be the best fit for what I’m going for. I chose these all mostly because of what the color looks like online!

https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-retail/oil-based-wood-stains-sealers/gel-stains

https://www.minwax.com/en/wood-stain-color-guide/browse-color-stains/brown/espresso-273-semi-transparent

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Varathane-1-qt-Kona-Premium-Fast-Dry-Interior-Wood-Stain-266161/203332251

https://www.minwax.com/en/wood-stain-color-guide/browse-color-stains/brown/dark-walnut-mw2716-solid

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-1-qt-TIS-518-Espresso-Transparent-Oil-Based-Advanced-Formula-Interior-Wood-Stain-B351804/311620808

2.    Whether a piece like this needs to be stripped or whether a scuff-sand and gel stain is acceptable

Photos attached. Any advice on process, products, or things to check first would be really appreciated.

1st photo is the piece I bought, 2nd and 3rd photos are references.

Thanks for any help!

u/Optimal-Designer7866 — 23 hours ago
▲ 4 r/finishing+1 crossposts

What Am I Doing Wrong?

I’m using General Finishes milk paint, and it looks awful. This is my second time trying. First time, I used a brush, and it looked even worse. I stripped that down, resanded, prepped the surface, stirred the paint, put on a coat with a Purdy White Dove roller, waited over 2 hours — the recommended time on the side of the can for the climate of Northern California in the summer —, scuff sanded with 320 grit, cleaned the surface, second coat.

Am I simply using the wrong type of paint? Literally everything I’ve seen online about GF milk paint is positive, but I don’t see where anyone else is coming from anymore.

Is there a specific type of brush that I need to use to get a more even, flatter coat?

Legit, losing my mind over this project.

u/Kilted_Caulfield — 1 day ago
▲ 9 r/finishing+1 crossposts

Sanding a house door

I am planning to sand and refinish this front door of my house. I will need to sand it extensively, but am wondering if there is a sanding tool to make the sanding more effective.

Osmo Wood Wax Application

Hi, All. I searched and didn't find an answer so asking now.

I'm going to apply Cognac color Wood Wax to a butternut console table I'm building. The table has a good amount of sapwood that's much, much softer, and lighter in color, than the heartwood. The heartwood is the majority of the table. I also have a decent amount of thick epoxy patches that I dyed brown.

I'm putting the stain on to try to darken both the heart and sapwood. And, to even out the difference in color between the two.

I did a load of quick samples of several different stains, dyes, and finishes and settled on the wood wax, which I'm using for the first time. The samples were very blotchy with the wood wax being the least blotchy. I sanded to 120 by hand for the samples.

I then did a few samples of 1 coat of wood wax on planed, sanded wood. It didn't look so great. I added a second coat and that improved the look but not greatly.

I then tried a sample with amber shellac I mixed up as a sealer coat. That looked better, but was inconsistent because I just slapped the shellac on and didn't concentrate on fine sanding first. All samples were applied with white scotch brite pads.

I've since read from Osmo that sealer coats shouldn't be used under wood wax and it should be applied with a cloth or brush.

My plan now is to sand the table to 220 per Osmo's instructions. Apply the first coat with a cloth rag, not scotch brite. Let it dry and then apply coat 2. Depending how it looks, I might add a coat of Osmo Poly-X.

Does anybody have advice or comments for things I might be missing? Or, any experience you have with wood wax?

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▲ 2 r/finishing+1 crossposts

KD Frames Lexington Platform Bed - Does not finishing the wood have any downsides?

Their website says this -

>If I want to stain or finish the wood, how should I do that? Most customers leave the wood unfinished, but you can absolutely apply a finish if you prefer. Here’s a great video on how to finish Tulip Poplar.

I want to understand from long-term users if leaving the wood unfinished has any consequences. Will cleaning with any kind of liquid be an issue?

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u/rthtoreddit — 1 day ago

I'm at my absolute wit's end trying to get a satin poly finish. No matter what, there's always bubbles, or dust, or mysterious hairs

u/GtwoK — 1 day ago

Alternatives to sanding mahogany door to remove all residue?

I want to remove all residue/paint/varnish from this mahogany door so that I can add a finish.

How can I do this with this door? I'm a bit scared of sanding it because I don't want to damage the door.

The 2nd pic is the side of the door looking towards the outside and receiving sunlight. That’s why the wood's a bit lighter.

u/East_Sentence_4245 — 1 day ago

Cat scratched coffee table

So I recently bought my dream coffee table on Facebook marketplace but my cat decided to claw it up last night ):
I don’t know anything about woodworking, minus how to wipe it down lol
Any suggestions/help on how to repair the scratches would be amazing! I think it just has a thin finish on top and the scratches aren’t too deep thank god

u/Ok-Abrocoma751 — 1 day ago

White smudge marks on oak table

Does anyone know what these white smudge marks are on the right-hand side of the table? They just look like white smudge marks. Any idea what might have caused them and if its possible to remove them?

u/Plenty-Peak-7184 — 1 day ago

Yellowing varnish on veneered cabinet

Hello - advice needed on fixing yellowed varnish on kitchen cabinets. I sourced a beautiful greyish-silver-blue veneer, had it professionally pressed, and made it into cabinets. The sun has yellowed the varnish, turning them seafoam green, which clashes with my tiles and overkill estheitic I designed and worked hard on. Need to rescue original the original color, would be great if it can be done with without dissambleing the doors as some are pocketed ,also there are the sides one of which is 270cmx62

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u/silenceofsouns — 2 days ago
▲ 5 r/finishing+2 crossposts

Help with sanding piece

I have sanded this pice and I think I have messed it up can anyone help please!

u/Jesscase37 — 2 days ago

Next step for this picnic table

I've been sanding (random orbital, 60 to 110 to 220) this cheapo picnic table getting it ready to finish, but it's been hard to get it looking even, and I'm worried that a transparent or semi-transparent finish will just highlight how crappy it looks. Does it just need a lot more sanding, or more of a colored finish, or is there something else I'm missing? Thanks!

u/flyingdics — 2 days ago

Polurthane coats for walnut dining table

I have applied 3 coats of oil based poly diluted at 15-20% mineral spirits then a 50% diluted 4th coat on a walnut dining table is that good or do I need more coats?

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u/woodworking5698 — 2 days ago
▲ 22 r/finishing+1 crossposts

Spar Urethane wont cure. What to do?

Im pretty much at a loss here, so any advice would be very much welcome. Here goes the story:

So I got this door from facebook marketplace. I have no clue what type of wood it is. It was painted black, so I decided to strip it and go for a natural look.

I started with Citristrip, followed by sanding up to 220 grit. I let it dry for like a week, then applied two coats of the stain shown, waiting 4 hours in between like the tin instructed. I waited about 12 hours, and applied a thin coat of the spar urethane shown. After about a week, it was still kinda tacky/oily so i decided to wipe with mineral spirits twice. This took away the tackiness so I just figured it was too humid. I turned on a window AC unit and let it dry a day or two. Then applied another coat of spar. same thing.

Take two. decided to citristrip again and start from scratch. sanded back down, going to 220 grit again. then waited a few days and applied only one coat of stain. I then waited like a whole week before spar because I figured uncured stain is what prevented the spar from curing the first time. Same thing again!!!!

It is definitely drying better than the first time but its been over 3 days at this point and still a bit tacky/oily.

Im really at a loss here. If I cant get it right this time i think im just going to strip and paint it black again. I really dont want to do that because im very happy with the color.

This is meant to be my front door btw. It will go under a covered porch.

u/YungLawn0 — 3 days ago