I am building a sawmod speaker and unfortunately the CNC machine tore out a good bit of the edges of my plywood. What is the best way to patch this?
Stainable wood putty before staining? Color matched putty after staining? Any other ideas?
I am finishing a piece of custom furniture that has a 1/4” walnut plywood veneer exterior. I am new to woodworking so my knowledge base is minimal. I wanted to keep this as natural and low-tox as possible so I decided to use 100% Tung Oil. Pictured is one layer of the tung oil on an off cut piece. I think it is a gorgeous finish, but I have other walnut pieces in the space that have a distinctly reddish tone in comparison. Does anyone have finish recommendations? I would prefer to preserve the natural beauty of the wood as much as possible while also bringing out the classic red tones typical in walnut furniture. Thanks!
Hey guys:
I am a noobie with no prior experience. Start to look into furniture painting hobby ( may transition into autobody paint). I do not want airless and want to stick with HVLP sprayers. The more I research, the less clear I am on what I should get. Should I go for dedicated turbine system like a FUJI or should I get a decent size compressor and go that way?
hey okay so i’m a full time woodworker newly hired, since being hired and working with different epoxies, stains, and worst of all 2-part gap filler.. my hands are always NOT the color they are supposed to be… anyways i remembered seeing some i think italian mechanic in a tiktok reacting to a brands fish guts remover hand cleaner or something.
im also a rock climber so anything that wont remove too much skin just the grime is ideal!
idk my hands are dirty and nothing helping lol
woodworkers any tips of the trade?
Anybody know what's in Rubio Raw Wood Cleaner product? Rubio strongly recommends it prior to applying 2C oil but it's almost 4 times the cost of acetone from the hardware store. Acetone doesn't raise the grain, removes anything oily or waxy from the wood surface and dries very quickly. Any reason to spend the extra money on the Rubio wood cleaner?
I'm doing an instrument neck, and I'm intending on getting an ultra high gloss finish (mostly for the experience of doing it, as I've tried it a couple times and never really managed, though I've come close).
I'm using Minwax rattle cans as I've had great luck with them, and I also have a can of Minwax brushing lacquer that'll probably also use where I can. I suppose I could use lacquer and just sand it back after every coat until I have the pores filled? I feel like that would take quite a while though.
Is there anything that's powdered and mixes into water (or something low VOC?) I was hoping to only spend $15-20, But it seems like most products are $25-40 at least.
I've liked odie's oil since I started woodworking about a year and a half ago. But at my local place the price recently went up to $70 for 9 oz and I don't like it THAT much...
So in an effort to skip that price tag I tried to make my own version that was also harder and took a bit more shine when buffed. To be honest, I have no empirical way to measure those things... but I think I got it! An now I would like to share the recipe with you, the people.
Disclaimers: I only started using this a few months ago and it seems to be holding up nicely but time will tell. I also do not have the resources or background in chemistry to promise that this is food safe... but it might be...?
Fauxdie's Oil:
6 fl-oz - Polymerized Tung Oil (I used Bumblechutes S'tung oil) $40-$45 for 16 fl-oz
4 fl-oz - Food Grade D-limonene (Nature's Orange) $40 for 32 fl-oz
20g - Beeswax (white or yellow is fine, I used VEGISHINE) $9 for 1lb
40g - Carnuba Wax Flakes (I used TOOGET) $19 for 1 lb
Process:
Add all the ingredients to a wide-mouth pint Mason Jar
place the jar into a small pot of boiling water (don't put the lid on it and avoid open flames).
heat and stir until the wax is totally melted and the finish is a clear amber color (10ish minutes)
removed the jar from the pot and allow to cool
stir the jar occasionally as it cools to keep the mixture loose until completely cool
This will yield a soft hardwax oil that can be applied the same way as odie's. Scrub on with a fine scotchbrite pad, allow it to sit for a while, and buff it off. (it can help to heat it with a heat gun to get it down into the pores but that is optional.) 2 applications with a few days in between seems to produce the best results.
Price Break down:
S'Tung oil: $17
Nature's Orange: $5
Beeswax pellets: $.40
Carnauba Flakes: $1.70
Mason Jar: $2.50
1 Pint of Fauxdie's Oil: $26.60
Also, try not to eat it because it looks and smells exactly like orange curd...
Used bona natural seal one coat to check under fridge and stove. This is the outcome . Now I am questioning myself if I should just change to something else as I dont want white bloches all over my floor . Plz suggest something as we are doing it as I write this post
Had a terrible nickelodeon orange and blue acrylic painted pine mini curio-type deal. Thought since anything was a massive improvement -- try something new I'd never done before, and maybe would be a terrible idea but maybe be kinda neat? So after an absolute slog of sanding, various intensities of chemical agents and probably more elbow grease than it was worth, I opted to skip the whole fiction heating in favor of a heat gun (everywhere except the very top, which got some minwax-gunk clogged 1000 grit sandpaper and I a sore arm, but also poly equivalent water resistance). I'm thinking the distressed-ish interior and residual sandpaper scratches that got rubbed flat are pretty neat, but were definitely choices of "this has been six months and I'm tired of looking at this thing"
The before -- https://www.reddit.com/u/G0ldiC0cks/s/pBfKOnou7f
Any thoughts outside of, ya know, finish the wood properly next time if you're gonna make the wood the finish?
I’m getting this shellac surface prepped for the topcoat, but as it’s been exposed to (careful) daily use I need to remove any contaminants that may be on the surface. Of course I can’t use denatured Alcohol - but what about mineral spirits? I read both pro and con opinions on using it however. I’ll be lightly prepping the surface with a maroon pad first & it does need something to wipe it down prior to this step.
I’d really appreciate feedback from the shellac gurus out there! (Edit: shellac was used as a sealer after the stain)
hi!
recently i stripped, sanded, and stained an oak bookshelf and applied 1 layer of polyurethane to it. i realized that i’m no happy with how the stain turned out due to rushing from time constraints. i would like to try again.
my question is if i can sand through the layer of polyurethane? or if i have to strip the shelf again.
i realize ill probably have to start at 80 and work my way back up again but avoiding the stripper would be a small win.
thank you !
Hello yall, beginner here.
I had originally stained this and fucked it up by not sanding enough/getting old varnish or whatever was on it off. So I had to strip and sand it all down AGAIN. Is this ready to stain now? FYI it would be an espresso color so on the darker side.
The dark marks are hard to get out from my previous stain and I’m afraid of unevenly sanding if I reaaaallly get into those couple darker spots.
I’m asking because idk if I can do it a third time…..
Bottom right is a little moist still from wiping it down with water to get rid of excess dust
I’m doing some false beams in my house and screwed up this cut/ scribe, can I use a wood filler (pine as that’s what they’re made out of) and spot stain?? Or am I skuppered?