I curious how the sapphire discs that go over watch dials (no the cyrstal) but the sapphire disc that is pad printed onto so the pad print floats over the dial. How on earth are those attached?
I designed a watch caseback that is to mimic fire going across the back and leaving behind charred wood. I am going I can bring it to life.
Rally like the black. (I’m guessing I probably can’t get that as black as the image).
What would your line of attack be? Etching the fire and the vertical lines in the char. Then blacken the top with the laser? Would maybe steel blackener be able to be used in the vertical lines of the char?
Open to ideas
The design was created in Inkscape and is vectorized and will hopefully be printed onto a watch dial made from smooth carbonized wood . These are zoomed in. I called out some bits from the design and hoping I can get some feedback to see if these are done in a way that would give a successful print. I have never designed my own design before for pad printing so want to make sure I am not facing any printing mountains to climb. I know pad printing can give stupidly fine results.
I am working on a project and hoping to use some charred maple veneer is blackened with heat. If I stabilized it with something like cactus juice would it still look raw? The raw look is super cool and kind of has a bit of sparkle to it
I am making a design for a watch dial so this matters.
I at regular zoom everything looks correct, when I start hyper zooming in the shape starts to come in and out of distorted. I am assuming this is just some weird little thing within the software? At just 100% zoom is a non issue. When I export to PDF I dont see them.
I made some black wood dials and looking to get a white design pad printed on but do to the nature of the black, i think a 1 press and done wont be white enough. Anyone in the USA do small runs and can do a few prints on the dial so the white is very crisp and you dont see bleed through from the black wood?
If I had a rock that shimmered with irradesence, would a thin layer of Paraloid B‑72 take that away? Like lets say I had charcoal and it glittered in the sun, would the Paraloid B‑72 still allow it to glitter?
I made a charred wood watch dial. It is really cool looking and shimmers in the sunlight. I want to have a light sealer on it so I can print a design ontop of it. I figured this community might have some insight to my question...is there a sealant that I can lightly put on the top that wont take away that shimmer?
Can the eufy do matte/flat white prints? From looking at various uv print photos they have a glossy sheen.
I am looking to put a white design on charred wood but don’t want a glossy finish
Ok this is out there. I want to make some watch dials. I charred wood and gave it a very light lacquer and its beautiful. I want to pad print a stark white design ontop of the dial. My question is would a single impression from the pad printer give me a stark white? There is some slight grain, would the imprint appear grainy?
My local printer who pad prints told me they could only do 1 imprint layer. Dont want to waste my time if there might be better people who can do a few layers if it is required for a stark white and clean look.
The printer does do UV printing and they suggested that but I am not sure. I had them UV print onto some polished ceramic previously and it looked good at arms lenght but up close it didnt look the best. Not sure if that would be the same for a non-polished surface like wood.
I need to remove .1mm or so of wood from some small piece of veneer. I learned about the card scraper but before i go buy a tool want to see if it is practicial for my needs. I see online people mention turn the blade over a screwdriver shaft but I am not understanding that part.
How do you actually get the bur doing this? I am not understanding the technique to get the bur.
I’m looking to cut out 1” circles of charred .5mm veneer. Would a compass cutter work well for something like my needs?
Would a compass circle cutter be able to cut .5mm charred veneer cleanly?
I have the longer nano 12w diode laser. I am charring .5mm wood veneer and then cutting it out. What power/speed settings might be the best for this? I have played around but am getting raised charred edges and dont have a lot of material left to tinker with.
Would it be wiser to do 1 or 2 passes with material such as this?
Saw the cool gilt giveaway. Thought I’d give myself a chance to win.
I made this thread over at rwi awhile back on how to make your own true gilt dial cheaply. All you need is magazine paper, a laser printer, brass dial, heat source (stove, laminator, hair straightener etc) and a way to burnish (wood clothspen), a method to color the brass (professional acid mix, smashing a boiled egg open plastic bag to get sulphur to tarnish the brass, many many other ways to color brass or copper), a solvent (like acetone), and glossy lacquer.
Figured some of you might be interested.
Anyone know where I can get a double domed crystal for the Raffles dial 36mm vintage explorer case or what the diameter would be?
Anyone know where I can get a double domed crystal for the Raffles dial 36mm vintage explorer case or what the diameter would be?
Making a little portfolio of watches.
I’m going for the Japanese shou sugi ban burned wood aesthetic. After many tries, techniques, lacquers and wood species I got a technique down that essentially carbonizes wood veneer. My brand I’m making is called XII MARKS as in the 12 hour marks on a dial.
I have rendered 2 dial variations. One is “more” and the other is “less”. The Japanese kanji on the deal refers to the essence of “black” as in “blackened wood” aka char. There will be no lume on the dial as I feel that takes away the character of the charred wood.
Which dial pairs best with the carbonized dial?
For the caseback I’m leaning towards something like a flame going up the caseback leaving char behind. It’s like the process of wood burning in action. Open to further additions.
I have some zirconia ceramic that I want to have a frosted almost sparkly look. How would you do it?
I remember trying lapping a long while ago on brass, when i looked at the brass disc up close it looks like 1,000s of little diamonds. It was cool. Any chance lapping would be able to replicate that look with a flat ceramic disc? I am trying to replicate the look of glistening snow on the ceramic.
i think what i am trying to get it as is a bunch of random light refraction.
