Want to build a 6542 with a Miyota 9075. It looks like the 9075 can fit into a case for a Miyota 8/9 series. Any reason I can’t take a raffles 6538 that fits a Miyota 8215 and drop the 9075 in and add an acrylic insert and cyclops and call it a day?
Looking to make a copper watch dial but need to have a date window (2.7mmx2mm rectangle) that has 45 degree bevels. Would a graver be a good tool for this? Any advice? How could an angel be set so the graver only removes a 45 degree slope? Would the bevels come out pretty clean?
I’m looking to make 10 or so of these dials. They are .4mm thick. Apparently copper is hard to machine so since no one makes copper dials like this I have to diy
I am looking to make a copper watch dial but want to include a date window and i want to have the sides of the date window to be beveled like in the images above. The date window would be something like 2mm x 2.7mm. Would a graver be a good tool for my needs if i already had a square laser cut into the copper?
I’m trying to get creative in applying a mixture of uv resin and luminous powder. Is there a good material that I can laser cut a stencil out of and lay it on my piece and then put in my uv resin/lume powder mixture and cure it and then pull the stencil off and the uv resin won’t stick to the stencil at all?
Looking to get a similar shade on copper plating for some watch dials. Would a dilute liver of sulphur give a similar shade of brown? Almost a honey brown. If so any advice?
I’m looking to do some masking over photosensitive materials. I’m currently using a vacuum bag and sucking the air out to ensure good contact. Would switching to a vacuum table give me any further benefit?
Hopefully someone here knows. My local pad printer uses a one component ink but for some reason isnt telling me which one it is. For my needs my watch dial will need a top coat before the pad printing is done.
Anyone know which top coats I can put on that would be receptive of the one component ink?
I am looking to get a local pad printer to print some watch dials for me. He tells me they use a one component ink but wont tell me which ink they use. For my needs I need a top coat on my piece before I pad pritn. What kind of top coat could I put on my watch dials that would be receptive to a one component pad printing ink?
AI is telling me an acrylic, or water based polyurathane but those sound like the ink wouldnt stick to them.
Trying to help get down the stupid high summer bills in my 106 year old house . I know windows are a primary source for air intrusion.
I am assuming I should weatherstrip every little gap in these photos? Is it better to have a peel and stick or try to stuff in very thing foam? I also see there is clay rope that people up north use in the winter. Wonder if they would do well for the gap between where the two sashes meet
I am looking for a cheap, readily available emulsion that I can use to make a very finely detailed resist mask for electroplating. Standard dry film is too thick to capture some of my detail.
Would the standard green solder mask work well if i rolled it on to my metal substrate and exposed/developed to make a mask for copper electroplating? I know I can remove the green solder mask with some chemical strippers.
I want to cnc acrylic sheet into a watch bezel. Like above. This was Bakelite from back in the day and the numbers and markings were recessed and filled with luminescent material and the bottom painted over.
Would a cheapo desktop cnc off amazon be able to cut cast acrylic and get some a clear version of this? The numbers would be on the smaller side and a like .3mm deep.
If a cheap desktop cnc won’t do it, realistically what would I need?
There is a trademark owner in EU who owns the trademark to the last name of a famous explorer. They own the trademark in the 014 category for watches among other categories. If I am USA based and have my own trademarked brand that is a completely different name but have the famous explorers last name AND year of a specific event benath the last name on the dial. The last name and year on my dial is more a tribute to the person AND the event and they read as a unit.
In the EU, how does that work? Would there be a legal issue with that if I ever planned to sell my own branded watches in the EU?
I just learned about casting resin and then laying like a smooth film or glass on top to get a smooth finish. However that finish would be glossy. I know there are films that are frosted and when layed on the resin you can get the frosted look. However, are there films that can give you a satin look? As in still clear, just not glossy?
here is an example of someone doing this and getting a glossy finish:
youtube.com/watch?v=mR-NfkPPZGU&time_continue=1&source_ve_path=NzY3NTg&embeds_referring_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fdiscord.com%2F
I curious how the sapphire discs that go over watch dials (no the cyrstal) but the sapphire disc that is pad printed onto so the pad print floats over the dial. How on earth are those attached?
I designed a watch caseback that is to mimic fire going across the back and leaving behind charred wood. I am going I can bring it to life.
Rally like the black. (I’m guessing I probably can’t get that as black as the image).
What would your line of attack be? Etching the fire and the vertical lines in the char. Then blacken the top with the laser? Would maybe steel blackener be able to be used in the vertical lines of the char?
Open to ideas
The design was created in Inkscape and is vectorized and will hopefully be printed onto a watch dial made from smooth carbonized wood . These are zoomed in. I called out some bits from the design and hoping I can get some feedback to see if these are done in a way that would give a successful print. I have never designed my own design before for pad printing so want to make sure I am not facing any printing mountains to climb. I know pad printing can give stupidly fine results.
I am working on a project and hoping to use some charred maple veneer is blackened with heat. If I stabilized it with something like cactus juice would it still look raw? The raw look is super cool and kind of has a bit of sparkle to it
I am making a design for a watch dial so this matters.
I at regular zoom everything looks correct, when I start hyper zooming in the shape starts to come in and out of distorted. I am assuming this is just some weird little thing within the software? At just 100% zoom is a non issue. When I export to PDF I dont see them.
