Opinions on Mt Juliet/Hendersonville/Gallatin?

Hey all,

We’re flying into town in a few weeks to look at some houses in the Mt. Juliet/Hendersonville/Gallatin area. Wanted to ask the group if there is anything that are “must know”, “must do”, or “must avoid” type things. Both of us work remote so no commute considerations but we do love downtown Nashville so probably would be there 2-4 times per month.

Our girls are 10 and 12, so also wanted opinions on the schools. We’re leaning towards Mt. Juliet overall but all three look encouraging. I’m hoping to end up either on or at least very near to the waterfront on Old Hickory lake, which is why we’re concentrating our search in that general area.

If it helps, we’re the type of people who’d probably prefer to be within ~15 minutes of major shopping/day to day type things (gymnastics/dance/math tutors/etc). We’re going to be scoping all of that out during the trip but figured it wouldn’t hurt to mention.

Beyond that I’m also a frequent tennis player (4x per week now) and wife likes to do gym classes. Prefer a fair bit of land but willing to give up on that if it got me on the water :)

Thanks in advance!

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u/Easterncoaster — 4 days ago

Anyone having an uptick in FedEx issues?

I ship around 500 packages a month and around a year ago I switched to be exclusively FedEx, largely due to the delivery confirmation photo they provide as I was getting too many “never got it” complaints with USPS.

Life was fine for many months, but a couple weeks ago I got hit HARD by FedEx sorting center thefts. 7 customers in one week received empty boxes, and they are located all over the country- Florida, Michigan, Arizona, etc. The thefts must be occurring at the first sort center after my OK warehouse.

It’s always the same- the box is opened from the bottom then gets taped up and gets an FXG Relabel.

I’ve not had this happen once in 10 months then 7 times in a week, it’s wild. I really don’t want to switch to USPS or UPS but this is too much. So far our account rep had had nothing to say on the issue other than “just file a claim”. I hope I do get reimbursed but it won’t be for many months even if it does happen.

Anyone see a recent uptick in these sorts of problems?

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u/Easterncoaster — 3 months ago

Can’t get strut fully seated in knuckle

2017 Cherokee Trailhawk with 100k miles. Passenger side strut was making a lot of noise so I decided to totally rebuild the suspension- lower control arm, lower ball joint, outer tie rod end, sway bar link, and strut. It was a disaster. Every step took hours; I’m about 15 hours into the passenger side and the last 3 have been spent trying to get the new strut to seat fully in the knuckle. I got it around 85% the way there while the knuckle was off the car, then after fighting it for an hour decided to mount the assembly in hopes that vehicle weight would drive the strut down into the knuckle the rest of the way. No joy.

The strut is a Monroe Quick Strut. The old strut practically fell out of the knuckle. The knuckle was clean, no visible rust or gunk. On the way in I was able to get it most of the way by jamming a screwdriver into the pinch bolt ears and using that to spread to the knuckle.

I’ve spoken with Monroe tech support and they confirmed model numbers and the vin and confirm that this should be working. I’ve tried heat, force, jacking the LCA up, hammering, a pinch bolt spreader.

Now making things worse is that the strut is permanently fused into the knuckle. Obviously I’ve thought about just replacing the knuckle at this point but it’s $600 so just looking for tips or war stories that might help.

SOS! Please and thank you. Photos are of the new strut (2x) and one showing the other side with the old strut to show how deeply it should be sitting.

u/Easterncoaster — 4 months ago

TIC Testing Vent

I am the brand owner and have my products manufactured to my specs by a third-party manufacturer in China. We make laser-based products; using just 5 modules we built 80+ products, largely different housing shapes, sizes, and colors.

My company has been in business for 19 years and has always been compliant with FDA testing rules for our products. We use an accredited third-party lab in China, and for around $2k/yr they test all 5 modules and then certify each of the 80+ SKUs containing those modules including FDA registration.

All has been going fine until this month when I got hit with the TIC policy. Woke up to 79 policy violations in my account health, no warning emails beforehand just immediate violations. They took down 11 listings without even giving time to appeal and the other 68 they gave me a random 5 weeks to comply. Got quotes today- using one of the two approved labs in China would cost just shy of $20k/yr and using one of the three US labs would cost $50k.

Amazon’s policy is clear that the testing doesn’t actually need to be performed at the TIC provider (so long as your lab isn’t on the blacklist), but none of the TIC-approved labs will allow it. They all want their pound of flesh.

Did some heavy analysis and of the ~$100k in profit I made in the last twelve months (on $650k of sales), I can keep $75k of it by testing 12 SKUs and letting the rest die. My revenue will nearly halve, so there’s some beautiful irony in that- Amazon will earn hundreds of thousands less off of my account (my PPC alone was $100k last year).

So I’m at $7k for the testing, my profit will drop by $25k, my revenue will drop by $200k-$300k, and really the only major loser is Amazon. All because they created a stupid process by which there are only 2 labs in China and 3 in the US, out of the literal thousands of accredited options out there.

I’ll still sell the other variants on my website and eBay, in both cases at higher margin (albeit much slower volumes, but it’ll sell eventually).

But anyway, that’s my rant.

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u/Easterncoaster — 5 months ago

Last year I upgraded my multi-zone concealed ducted heat pump system to a Midea DLCMHB triple zone 30k btu system. I put it in around September and it cooled fine, then over the winter it heated fantastically.

Now that spring is here, it’s time to flip back to cooling but it just won’t cut over to cool. System runs lukewarm, and if left on long enough it throws P6 and P2 error codes. Pressures on the suction line are around 150psi at rest but when set to cooling mode they drop to 20psi and stay there.

But here’s the thing- it still works GREAT in heating mode. I would’ve thought low refrigerant if not for the great performance in heating mode. Also, the behavior is the same whether a single zone or both zones are turned on.

Scratching my head here trying to figure out what to try next. The condensate traps on both systems are bone dry which means both air handlers likely haven’t entered cooling mode at all since last summer.

Anything obvious I might overlooking before I drop $500+ on a service call?

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u/Easterncoaster — 5 months ago