Was coming to work and i realized this nail in my tire, just bought these tires brand new two months ago and I'm hoping i don't need to get a new one.
2008 Nissan Altima SE. Automatic Transmission. 205,000 Miles.
Tires keep looking like this and blowing out. Some friends suggest it's an alignment issue. Others said they checked my alignment and it's good. Driver's side rear looks like the car is almost sitting on the tire. Barely a gap. Passenger side has a normal look and eats tires also. This was the passenger rear tire. I've just bought this car 4 months ago and changed 6 tires on it already just on the back alone (x5) and front driver (x1)
Lost air in my right rear tire yesterday. It’s a 35x12.5x20 Ridge Grappler with about 10,000 miles on it. I found just the shaft of a very large screwdriver going in through the top of the tire then out the sidewall.
Everyone, even the shop, asks me who I pissed off. The thing is the screwdriver entry is on the inside of the tire going through the tread which seems like a lot more work than to just stab the outside of the tire at the sidewall.
Could a human even physically do this?
Edit: Fuck how do I turn off notifications.
Edit 2: The list of possible suspects
Edit 3: Yeah it looks like I got whooshed and missed a joke.
I just graduated high school and this is my first car and I’m honestly broke and hoping this won’t put me into debt.
The car is a 2015 Nissan Rouge with around 100,000 miles.
It happened when I hit a rut backing out of my driveway. I can add more pictures or information if needed. I just could really use any sort of advice right now
okay so three weeks ago i went to go start it and boom it wouldn’t start no dash lights turn on but the check engine light (as in photo) and refused to start
i have replaced battery starter relay (i know starter is good) ignition switch and camshaft position sensor starter
2003 lexus es300 1mzfe v6 3.0 250000 miles automatic
2013 TOYOTA CAMRY LE.
I Already have the common shudder problem. Looking to get torque converter replaced and ECM reflash. But what’s this sound?? Only happens when I accelerate comes and goes
2013 4runner. What am i hearing here? Ive had this sound coming from my left front suspension for quite some time when i make turns and especially if i unsettle the suspension while turning. My initial though was ball joints so i slowly started replacing all ball joints on this side, uca, lca, end link, inner and outer tie rods. None of that has fixed the issue, if anything it has gotten worse over time. I also have the repeated issue of the rotor warping on this corner as well. Wheel bearing seems fine, no noise or play. Im stumped.
While visiting Lima Peru, I noticed a few cars that have very rusted wheels- probably from being near the Pacific ocean.
I’m scratching my head on how that tire was mounted on the VW bug being the wheel is rusted like it was under the ocean for 100 years?
Maybe they left the tire on the hub and mounted that way?
If so, what about brakes and such?
I’ve tried every tool from oil filter wrench, two different oil filter pliers, 3 claw oil filter wrench, stuck and screwdriver and tapped it with a hammer (it just tore the filter), tried a cap till it won’t fit anymore,
Used a microfiber cloth to fit in with the oil filter wrenches and caps and didn’t work. I’m not sure what else I can do and running out of options
Looking for proactive solutions, I know this is common with Hondas Hyundais and Kias (Kia Optima btw). TIA
I have a 2006 Acura RSX running brand new 225/45R17 tires on 3 spokes.
I had 2 blowouts on the same day, on the same wheel. First tire was cooper cobra instincts, second was contiental extreme contact (less than 2 years old)
Both times i was on the highway with about 80 pounds of stuff in the trunk. Before I went to drive I verified I had 32psi in all 4 tires. On i75 in DFW theres these cuts in the lanes that are really deep and something jagged. Both times I kind of dipped into them and then right after I got a blow out with the inner sidewall seperating. Ive never had an issue running over those cuts before. Just wondering if its bad luck or too much stuff in my trunk with the tire pressure im running? I dont rub and ive ran this setup for the past 10k miles. Ive verified nothing in my wheel well is causing it.
Any help would be appreciated!
I suspect it may be a vacuum leak .. but wouldn’t it throw a code for that also ?
hello, so I’ve been having an issue with one of my headlights on my car. It’s a Honda Civic sport 2022 automatic. essentially I had no issues with the car when I got it last year then in my neighborhood I usually back in when I park someone overnight hit and ran my car and the headlight was out on the passenger side. I replaced the whole assembly because it was cracked and now I’m dealing with the driver side being out and I’m not sure why. I’ve taken it to all of two shops to see if I need to replace the whole assembly again ( which was really expensive) or if we can just take out the bulb and replace it. i’m not sure if I should trust what the shop says because at the top of the headlight when the signal is on the light is flickering when I put on my turn signal so I’m thinking it’s not completely out. this is my first car and I do keep up with the maintenance on it so I’m not sure as to why the headlights keep going out on either side. Everything is pretty much up-to-date in the car. I haven’t been in any accidents other than the hit-and-run in my neighborhood in the middle of the night. one morning since I work such early hours it didn’t turn on so I had to wait until the sun came up to start driving. idk if i have to fold just buy an aftermarket light and have them put it in for me and pay for labor (because I was told at whatever car place I went to that it would be over $2000 for the headlight assembly itself to buy it from Honda) in my opinion that’s just ridiculous for a headlight which is why I purchased an aftermarket headlight when the passenger side went out or I just buy a bulb and figure it out myself. i’ve been dealing with this for about three months just because I don’t know where else to go or what to do. Help would be very appreciated. Thank you. :)
My husbands beloved 08 tundra w/ 190k miles on it went in for some issues and the mechanic told us there is so much to replace that it would cost more than the truck’s worth. Told my husband he wouldn’t even recommend driving it on the highway. Will see what dealerships will offer for a trade in but curious if anyone knows any online platforms that give reasonable values in situations like this. The mechanic told my husband he would buy it for 2500 which I thought was crazy low but I have no idea
2009 toyota rav4 235,000 miles automatic transmission
what happened to my battery? and what should i do? do i neeeed to replace the battery or can i just clean this stuff off and call it a day?
Thank you in advance :)
I have to drive the car for 135 miles on the highway tmr. Would it be safe?
I am thinking its the outer axle joint.
Long story short, I got some warranty work on an axle seal done at the dealership and they split the rear Outer CV boot. so grease is everywhere and car started making popping noise.
after initial diagnosis, they want to address the boot leak and want to do further diagnosis to figure out where the sound is coming from. sound happens during load transfers between acceleration and deceleration.
Car is 2021 Ford Mach E.
I would appreciate any help thank you.
Hey guys, I’m replacing the transmission cooler line on my 2006 Ford Fusion 2.3L automatic (L4) and I’m running into an issue with the radiator fitting side. The new cooler line is basically identical to the old one, but when I try threading it into the radiator/trans cooler port, it only goes in partway before getting very hard and wanting to cross-thread. The weird part is that even the original OEM line started doing the same thing when I tried reinstalling it after removal. The tube itself seems slightly offset from the radiator fitting, so I have to push the line sideways a bit just to get it started. I attached pictures showing the offset and how far it threads before binding. Does this look like damaged radiator threads, a bent cooler line, or is this normal with these Ford compression-style fittings? Also, what’s the proper solution here before I destroy the radiator threads or damage the new line?
2005 camry with 200k miles - stalled on the highway with some light smoke coming out of the hood as I pulled over.
More video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JAwzKHAaYc