I drove around the midwestern United States in 2024 for my old LLC. It was mighty lonely but thankfully my bud, Moby kept me great company and we took tons of amazing photos.

The clothes and sunglasses make him look like a person from a distance, which was convenient because he primarily resided in front the passenger seat.

Edit, 2hrs after post: fixed grammar + holy cow that’s a lot of comments!! I will start replying to comments after I’m done working today but for those interested, I’ve posted a lot more of Moby (reminder this is the name of my dildo) on my account. Feel free to explore in the meantime. Cheers

Modest edit just for fun, no added audio, still my cat and original content.

This is Winston! He’s a holler-baby with a big personality. This croissant has been his favorite toy since he was a lil baby

For basic context, I’m pretty new; 190 hours into my first play-thru, and hostile entities are disabled while I learn the mechanics of the game. I also am not using bots at all because I thoroughly enjoy the grind.

I understand basic train mechanics and have been using a central hub with 5 stations and 5 trains total(you can see this towards the SW of the screenshot).

I am scaling up a little bit so I built what you can see in the northern half of the image.

I realized early into this build that I don’t know how to keep trains from clogging up the network but surely there’s a better method than simply having 1x train assigned per unloading Station? Ideally I’d have tons of trains hauling the same resource, able to choose from any empty station for unloading but have no clue how to achieve this, or ask it in less words (sorry lol).

Taking a shot in the dark that understanding the Circuit Network will help with this? I am an electronics repairman in real life so I figured learning circuitry in-game won’t be too hard, but I’ve honestly neglected this feature thus far.

(Ps I’m very aware of my power demands. This is scaling up too. One project at a time without bots.)

Edit, 4hrs later: grammar fixes.

I’m not sure how common this is, but my nasty boy, Butters, does that blanket-kneading thing associated with cats taken away from their moms too early.

Except my boy loves to bite down on the blanket, and walk in slow circles, progressively forming a wet blanket spire, covered in his saliva. It’s big nasty, and he knows it

I have a terribly busy work life so I’ve only been able to make gradual progress but I finally feel confident enough to post here! This is the third time I’ve built a cat wall, with each iteration growing in intricacy. I’m incredibly satisfied with the outcome of what I’ve built this time around, but there’s still so much to do!

I still need to finish the walkway above the kitchen cabinets, put together the third cat tree, find a way to discourage using the fridge as a path, and of course mounting dozens more shelves.

I don’t terminate cables often but I always catch flack for how I do it. Don’t care though, I can do it my way pretty darn quick, and I’ve yet to see anything except a PASS.

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Edit, 1 hour update:

Well, my bad… I ain’t at all realize I did THAT bad a job. I usually just catch some “WTF” but no specific criticisms. Basically, I’m learning a lot thanks to all the comments so keep it comin

I do want to add a little bit of context based off some of the comments I’ve read though: This cable is a 70ft run, terminated in a warehouse environment, and if it fails, only my workstation is affected. I do need my hardwired connectivity because I do network scans every few minutes for my job.

I am not a networking professional, nor do I claim to be. I do sometimes need to terminate cables in a pinch though.

This is such a specific issue, and I hope this community is an appropriate place to ask this.

The multimeter in the video is the Hantek T01112D.

So I’ve always had trouble hearing my multimeters when they beep to confirm continuity. Compounded by my continuously degraded hearing ability, this is getting very annoying.

I previously used a fluke multimeter and considered modding the board with a much more powerful beeper. Never got the chance, and now I have this touch screen thingy that my boss gave me. It’s cool and effective, but the continuity beeps are unbearably quiet. Yet the UI is super-duper loud?!

(Ps, I am confident it beeps on continuity. I know it’s too quiet to hear in the video due to background noise but I confirmed it in a quieter room.)

This is frustrating for me, and I can’t find much online. I tend to just use resistance now, but I test and replace hundreds of SMDs a day. The option to use my continuity function as intended would be a welcome change

Edit: SOLVED! Thank you very much everyone. Added strike through to original content. Also adding a copy of my update comment:

*Alright, thanks to y’all’s ideas, and insight, I found a solution by modifying my original fluke multimeter.

special thanks to u/HessianRaccoon for their suggestion of the Brymen BM235; while this multimeter has equal volume output to my Fluke 15b+ (60db or so), its screen also “flashes” to indicate continuity.

Looking online at the specs for the BM235 led me to this video by [@Hugatry on YouTube](https://youtu.be/5D8jxj9chBo?si=aLBGs_ECrMekdi5G) wherein the author shows how he modified his multimeter to be quieter. He simply replaced a single resistor.

Increased resistance = quieter. Decrease resistance = louder.

I repeated Hugatry’s steps, and but reversed his solution to make my 15b+ maybe 15-20db louder. For the time being, this is an effective solution for me.
[here is the Imgur post of the multimeter taken apart and stuff](https://imgur.com/a/pw6MsFn)*

Us repair guys are not very fond of the S19kPro.

Jokes, obviously. I’ve seen a lot of ASICs, and been to tons of repair centers. You genuinely happen across machines like this every so often, but at least this one isn’t charred like some others! Pics are from 2023.

Happy workbench Wednesday! I’ve been itching to post this since last Thursday haha.

I’m Abacus of FooseyRhode and I specialize in repair of a specific type of computer part called an ASIC Hashboard, and those PCBs are what this setup is built around servicing.

Honorable mentions at my desk that might catch some curiosity

1. The Overhead Cable Trays.

2. The rail mounted, Digital Microscope.

3. The Heatgun Glory Hole.

4. Soldering Iron suspended by pulleys.

5. The Quad-table-top fans (Fan Deck).

1 and 2.) The overhead cable trays are super helpful for the obvious, but also for storing some accessories out of the way.

My primary heatgun for example. With it up there, wrist strain from the heavy heatgun gun hose is practically eliminated.

I also mounted my PC and digital microscope up there. Microscope benefits because table vibrations are gone, and computer is just there for cable management.

3.) See image 3. Looks crazy but it’s very necessary for my work. The PCB I work on are typically single layer PCB secured to a giant aluminum plate. A lone heatgun is not capable of achieving solder flow, and hot plates are extremely impractical for PCB like this. Thus, I apply heat from above, and below.

Getting the damn thing mounted safely was the hardest part. I used a pneumatic vesa monitor mount, but backwards. I hammered the vesa mount into shape and secured it to a desk beam. Then I secured the opposite end of the mount to the heatgun.

4.) The pulleys just keep the soldering iron cable out of my way. Honestly, I’m just resolving a minor inconvenience for myself with this.

5.) My 3D printed Fan Deck! It’s four 120mm fans powered through a potentiometer so I can control the speed. It’s used primarily when I am diagnosing a board.

The boards I work on use around 40-90 amps when operating, but for diagnostic, require only 10-20 amps to test properly. Point being, they heat up very rapidly, and heat affects my diagnostic. The Fan Deck is a means to cool boards down while simultaneously injecting power into them.