u/FunFinance5974

So somehow my screen broke over a 1 foot drop.

I’m not really worried about that, I have replaced the glass on this iPhone before, it’s the price of a parking ticket. I have a great shop that will do glass only repairs, life happens…

WHAT IM WORRIED ABOUT;

The stainless steel frame has a small ding in it, it’s what caused the front glass to crack, the screen popped out of the frame and cracked days later. The frame juts in behind the screen .3mm to .7mm.

My fear is that getting the screen reinstalled will be impossible and I’ll need to change the housing, and on a 14 it’s starting to sound like a bed choice. Thoughts??

Could a good reputable shop do this and not have it break or unstick.

TLDR,
Phone got dinged, cracked the glass. Can a good repair shop straighten it out or should I start shopping for a new phone?

So somehow my screen broke over a 1 foot drop.

I’m not really worried about that, I have replaced the glass on this iPhone before, it’s the price of a parking ticket. I have a great shop that will do glass only repairs, life happens…

WHAT IM WORRIED ABOUT;

The stainless steel frame has a small ding in it, it’s what caused the front glass to crack, the screen popped out of the frame and cracked days later. The frame juts in behind the screen .3mm to .7mm.

My fear is that getting the screen reinstalled will be impossible and I’ll need to change the housing, and on a 14 it’s starting to sound like a bed choice. Thoughts??

Could a good reputable shop do this and not have it break or unstick.

TLDR,
Phone got dinged, cracked the glass. Can a good repair shop straighten it out or should I start shopping for a new phone?

THIS IS A POST TO SHARE MY EXPERIENCE AND NOT A QUESTION. I AM NOT A MECHANIC JUST A DUDE WITH A TIGHT BUDGET AND A COOL CAR. LET ME KNOW UR THOUGHTS IF YOU HAVE ANY :)

Sometime last December,
the GM 6L45 transmission in my N52 BMW 128i started to mildly shudder between 60-120 km/h at 1,000-2,500 RPM. It had actually started months earlier with a mild road vibration whenever I lightly tapped the gas pedal. I assume this was the torque converter clutch (TCC) trying to lock up. As the transmission went to engage, you could feel a slight imbalance. Contrary to what others have said, this happens in both Sport and Drive modes. Within a few weeks, the issue worsened, and I had to address it.

I ended up doing a drain-and-fill with 8.2L of Liqui Moly 1800 ATF, and I also added two tubes of Lubegard Instant Shudder Fixx. Dropping the valve body lets you get a little more fluid out and gives you a chance to inspect the valve body seals, which can go bad and cause other issues. If you don't ignore the problem for too long (like I didn't), I think most people will be fine just changing the fluid.

The fluid degrades with age, likely absorbing water over time. Just keep in mind that the car must be perfectly level, and the transmission needs to be at a specific temperature (30-50°C) to do the drain-and-fill correctly. Also, I have been advised not to flush these transmissions.

Here’s where my experience differs from what I've read online. It took a solid 1,600 km before the shudder fully went away. I reset my transmission adaptations, and it took a while for the gearbox to relearn its shift points; even today, after 5,000 km, it occasionally shifts a bit oddly. The shudder fix also made the transmission much grippier. It took away the smoothness of the old fluid in exchange for a more connected, sportier feel. I also raised my engine idle by 100 RPM, which increases the ATF pump speed.

This gave me better performance off the line, whereas the gearbox used to hesitate from a stop. From what I understand, there is very little long-term wear associated with raising the idle speed—unplugging the IBS (intelligent battery sensor) or running the AC does this by default anyway. For me, it also smoothed out the idle. The factory 575 RPM was hard on my worn engine mounts, and now at 675 RPM, the car no longer feels like a massage chair at the mall.

The shudder started at 107,000 km, and by 109,000 km, it needed to be fixed. I’m now at 117,000 km and, so far, so good. I’m not a mechanic, so take everything I say here with a grain of salt, but I think I managed to get away with a cheap fix. Looking back, I think two tubes of the shudder fix was probably too much, as the transmission is very grabby now. I also found out some people swear by Valvoline MaxLife ATF, so I’ll try that next. Don’t bother with the Liqui Moly 1800. I feel like I paid too much for it, and Dexron VI is pretty universal stuff.

I hope my experience helps you guys out, and if you have OCD like me, I hope this lets you sleep at night. As a DIY job, it’s not hard. Drop the pan and replace the filter the first time you do it. I’m going to keep doing fluid changes every 60,000 km. For the price of the MaxLife fluid, it’s about the cost of an oil change. I’ll check back in after a while to share how that fluid performs, but there are too many good reviews specifically for our gearbox not to try it.

Good luck!!!

Hey everyone,
My bmw 128i n52k (no disa) has a rough idle when the engine is hot and I go to restart it, usually it happens after the car has been sitting for 20 minutes, but it can happen sooner if its especially hot out.

I have this seesaw rpm, you don’t really see it in the video but I think you hear it. The entire car shakes side to side. It’s really very noticeable.

I have changed Vanos solenoids with genuine bmw ones,
I have changed coils and plugs.
I have changed the valve cover.
I have swapped the MAF
I also swapped the charcoal canister as it was defective.

With the maf unplugged my idle is nice but rises 200 rpm when pressing the brake pedal.

Going to smoke test the engine to try and figure out vacuum leaks but fuel trims are normal.

I was also thinking either bad purge valve or injectors.

No codes at all.

Brought it to a good Euro shop and after 4 hours of diag they swapped engine mounts and the issue still persist.

Please help :)

Even just leads to chase is good!

My BMW N52 has a noticeable side-to-side shake on warm restarts. The idle eventually smooths out, but the whole car rocks for a few seconds after starting.

I already replaced an engine mount and paid for diagnostics, but the issue remains.

I also hear a high-pitched “iiiiii” whine that seems to come from the alternator/accessory belt area. The valve cover/PCV was replaced previously by BMW.

No major drivability issues, no CEL, and fuel trims were reportedly normal. No smoke test has been done.

Any ideas? Vacuum leak, alternator, belt tensioner, or something else?

Hey friends!

N52 2011

I cut open my oil filter to investigate a really loud lifter tic on cold starts. Bleeding the lifters by keeping rpms up solved my issue.

With that said, I pulled my oil filter after 1000kms, I think what I found is concerning.

• Red circles (Metal): Tiny flakes and slivers. As far as I can tell non magnetic. They are shiny.

• Blue circles (Black crumbs): Hard, but crush into oily crumbs.

• The yellow stuff: I also found some bright yellow particles scattered in the pleats and I have absolutely no clue what they are.

I had the VANOS bolts recall and the VC changed since the last oil changed at bmw.

Should I be worried?

On a scale of 1-10 (1 being completely normal - 10 being foreseeable engine failure) how am I doing?

Please be nice I am new to having a German car I’m hella worried.

Thanks!!!!

Hey friends!

N52 bmw 128i

I cut open my oil filter to investigate a really loud lifter tic on cold starts. Bleeding the lifters by keeping rpms up solved my issue.

With that said, I pulled my oil filter after 1000kms, I think what I found is concerning.

• Red circles (Metal): Tiny flakes and slivers. As far as I can tell non magnetic. They are shiny.

• Blue circles (Black crumbs): Hard, but crush into oily crumbs.

• The yellow stuff: I also found some bright yellow particles scattered in the pleats and I have absolutely no clue what they are.

I had the VANOS bolts recall and the VC changed since the last oil changed at bmw.

Should I be worried?

On a scale of 1-10 (1 being completely normal - 10 being foreseeable engine failure) how am I doing?

Please be nice I am new to having a German car I’m hella worried.

Thanks!!!!