When refinishing motorcycles parts after cutting the and then buffing afterwards, I always had the displeasure of finding some scratches remaining from the coarser sanding grits. Does using a dry guide coat to make sure all the sanding the X grits are fully removed by the Y grit is a thing ?
I don’t know what else to try honestly
Hi,
I was testing some finishes on a spare motorcycle fender I have. After the clear was cured I try starting to block sand at 1500 and finishing with 3000, and after I polished the fender I noticed the reflection weren't straight, I basically had visual orange peel so, my question is, did I do wrong by not starting coarser like 800 or 1000 or did apply too much clear resulting having urethane waves ?
I did 3 medium wet coats
Hi,
I was testing some finishes on a spare motorcycle fender I have. After the clear was cured I try starting to block sand at 1500 and finishing with 3000, and after I polished the fender I noticed the reflection weren't straight, I basically had visual orange peel so, my question is, did I do wrong by not starting coarser like 800 or 1000 or did apply too much clear resulting having urethane waves ?
I did 3 medium wet coats
Hi, I have the Stew Mac buffing arbor to polish my paints but I feel like I just can't properly load the compounds on my wheels. I rake the wheels every time I'm about to use them, press the compound on the wheel for 5–10 seconds and start to wipe the guitar against the wheel and nothing happens, the surface stays hazy but shiny instead of becoming a mirror like it's supposed to. I have barely any compound dust on the guitar as well like I see on YouTube videos about buffing with a standing buffer.
At this point I'm lost, I don't know what I'm supposed to do anymore. If anyone that has been using these buffer for a while now can give any piece of advice on how to operate this machine, I'll be happy.
I bought an expensive clear that was for sale, unfortunately it came with a fast activator. I since bought the medium and slow activators but what do can I use the fast for ? It says it's for temps that are about 5C°/ 41F° and my booth even on a winter morning is never that cold. Am I throwing it away or store it until the end times on my paint shelf ?
I started using the Stew Mac buffer instead the regular car buffer I was using to buff my clear coat however, 1 time out of 3 I get swirl marks. These are not sanding marks but circles. I don’t understand what I’m doing wrong. I have 1 compound per wheel so these are not contamination marks and I wasn’t getting those using my handled buffer.
Hi, I have issues when sanding before buffing where I can still some scratches even after I polished panel. I start at 800 and finish at 3000 with everything in between for example, but my main problem has always been how to make sure I properly erased the previous sand grit scratches (ex 1000 erasing 800 and so on).
I'm losing my mind, this step is holding me back so much. Can you give me some advice ?
I'm trying so bad to buff my clear coat but every time despite thinking I erased the previous grit after buffing even after stopping at 3000 I can still see some scratches. I tried on scrap piece of wood that I painted to only sand at 800, then buffed on my buffing harbor and the thing came out scratch free. Will I get a gloss difference between stopping at 800 or 3000 grit ?