
What now?
I recently repainted my whole guitar sanding 320 between coats. Now that it’s done Is there anything special I have to do before applying lacquer or can I just start right ahead?

I recently repainted my whole guitar sanding 320 between coats. Now that it’s done Is there anything special I have to do before applying lacquer or can I just start right ahead?
My first headless build.
- 666mm scale length tuned to B
- mango top, walnut body, gaboon ebony neck and royal blackwood fretboard
- sintoms special bronze frets
- Riviera headless hardware
- glow in the dark fret markers
- seymour duncan black winter pickups
- my kissing crows logo is based on a photo I took of my crow best friends smooching and means a lot to me
I’m so happy with this one. It is my first build in a while for me, I usually make them as gifts for friends.
I am working on restoring a 1925 Gibson L3. I have removed the back to fix/repair a body length crack. The label on the inside is mostly in tact but is loose. Has anyone ever covered the label with lacquer or is there a way to adhere the label without ruining it?
Hi there, I'm looking for opinions on this guitar with a headstock break that I'm considering buying on eBay. How in-depth would this repair need to be? Would it require splines or a volute – or would a simple glue up and maybe some epoxy to fill be sufficient to fix long term? My brain is (perhaps naively) telling me it's doesn't have to be too crazy and I could do it myself. I have experience gluing up bodies and necks and have fixed minor neck cracks but I don't feel comfortable doing splines or adding a backstrap. If repairs would be more extensive than a glue job, what would the estimated cost be to have it done properly by a pro? Seller is asking $425 to buy – which seems steep, but I'd also be getting all the hardware and pickups included.
Finished adding frets today, dressed the ends of them, and contoured the neck! It feels so good in my hand and seeing the two components together in this state at last is so exciting!!
This is so common on yt or even here, I understand if someone is a luthier and has to do a lot of guitars. But recommending 250 worth of tools to people with 500 dollar setups seems bad
Is there something I don’t understand, can you not spot level without messing up with a sharpie and sandpaper if you do it carefully and check frequently?
I charred some maple veneer and I will be cutting it and adding it to a watch dial. I want to seal it and in the photo it has a satin nitro coating on it. It’s awesome because it keeps the character and the grain as the main focus. I tried a glossy version and it just looks like plastic almost. I’m guessing this isn’t enough for any sort of water resistance (thinking humidity). Is there a sealant that I can put on thinly that will give me some sort of protection against any sort of moisture and not give me a glossy look but keep the character of the char?
Can’t stop looking at this beautiful top. This is the first one of the Terrasonic v2.
While I was routing the neck pocket, a chunk of wood on the top left corner broke off similar to the hole in the pickup cavity. I went a little deeper to flatten it out but it was too deep. If I continue would the depth be an issue? This is my first build.
Also theses are slightly old photos, I sanded and rounded the corners after. I will give updated photos tomorrow.
Complete noob here.
Sorry, I did some digging, but still couldn't quite figure this out.
I have this old Squier guitar neck I've been gradually trying to rejuvenate. The back has some scuffs and small dents.
I know a proper refinishing is done where the existing finish is completely taken off the neck first.
I was wondering since the existing satin finish doesn't look that thick, if I could just sand it a bit and apply layers of Tru-oil to sort of refinish the back & headstock to smooth away the scuffs and keep the decals?
Or do I have to completely remove the existing finish down to bare wood, and take off the decals too?
Any advice from you experienced folk is welcome. Thanks!
Next step in my first build (29" evertune, sorry gotta put this on every post for people that haven't seen..). Ignore tape residue, I didn't listen to people telling me to buy the good stuff and now I'm going to spend a long time sanding the glue out..
Got the evertune routing done using my own templates. I was lucky that a friend of a friend works at a company with a CNC, so all my own Fusion made guitar/evertune templates cost a ridiculous £50.
Got it as close to perfect as I can for my first attempt, this first build won't be having a backplate so I'm pretty happy it turned out relatively clean!
Trying to find the name of this type of switch, but when I search for “mini” or “little” guitar switch, I get results for a bunch of different types.
I know the Peavey T-60 comes with these, but I’ve seen them elsewhere throughout the years, so I know it’s not specific to that guitar.
The title for the listing says for fret ends but some photos seem to be doing crowning on acoustics idk I’m a beginner
Im going to refret anyway, but if theyr fixable id like to use them as somthing to practice dressing frets with before i perform the re fret. But i dont want to waste time dressing them if it will play shit anyway
Please help! :)
About to spray some 2k. It’s only 10% humidity here and 80 degrees. I can up the humidity for very little time because of the fan running when spraying. Does anybody have experience with the 40-60% being super important? As in can anyone get away with spraying in my environment with a slightly altered method?
Is it okay to use mineral oil on this fretboard that has lots of inlays?
If you want to know the rest of the story:
This Epiphone Shearton II Korea has been sitting in hard case in my inner closet for a decade.
The fretboard (Rosewood perhaps) appears to be very dry. I’m getting it ready for string change and want to give the fretboard some love.
I have pure mineral oil and clean white cotton rag and plan to lightly oil the fretboard after I polish the frets.
I purchased a bundle of guitars and gear off Marketplace that included this Washburn Lyon. It was in pretty rough shape when I got it so I decided to use it to practice some skills.
The frets were sprouting and I filed them back down flush. The issue though is that splinters keep raising up on the edges of the fretboard. I've filed, sanded, and oiled them a few times now but it continues to occur. I'm wondering if there is some way to stabilize the edges to stop this from happening.
I've also included a shot of the recarved headstock. The original design included this weird hook and was really heavy. I decided to change it to more of an Ibanez style which has helped with the neck dive. I'd love to hear any feedback on that or ideas on what else I could do to this guitar. Thanks!
I was wondering what is the best efficient method to sand down my black finish in order to expose the wood grain..later on I wanted to Sand it down and smoothen w/o any complications.