u/GloomyPerformer5820

i like being a weirdo in public and park next to another fellow gen 7ner. ive only had a few people park next to my shitbox. can yall relate? sometimes you just gotta represent😆

has anyone tried or successfully swapped a steering wheel with ones that let you do volume control while still having cruise control access thru steering wheel as well? im just curious if its even possible or if anyone has tried it lol

so i learned today theres 2 filters for the 4 speed trans. the “lifetime screen” and then theres the external inline filter. does anyone change the external one? is it easy or recommended? does it even matter at this point lol? i have 269k miles. the car has regular transmission history up until last flush at 155k idk if that filter has ever been changed. shifts fine tho minus the usual sludge box behavior. i be wanting to do a drain and fill on it eventually and wondering if this is something i should do too or just leave it alone lol

ive made a post on this before curious what tools ill need and the general hows. i know ima want a valve cover gasket and a water pump timing kit. and serpentine belt (im due to do this anyways) and im sure ill want to reseal camshaft seal snd oil pan. i have d17a2 engine 2002 model. and i do have a nee cam plug. just want to get some extrs shit done while im down there. and curious how you do (at home) coolant flush. i been using for as long as i can remember universal coolant like valvoline or peak brand but i hear i should stick with blue. just curious if anyone can give some insight or help suggestions and msybe a solid link to a few videos or link? thank you c:

ive made a post on this before curious what tools ill need and the general hows. i know ima want a valve cover gasket and a water pump timing kit. and serpentine belt (im due to do this anyways) and im sure ill want to reseal camshaft seal snd oil pan. i have d17a2 engine 2002 model. and i do have a nee cam plug. just want to get some extrs shit done while im down there. and curious how you do (at home) coolant flush. i been using for as long as i can remember universal coolant like valvoline or peak brand but i hear i should stick with blue. just curious if anyone can give some insight or help suggestions and msybe a solid link to a few videos or link? thank you c:

so is it really the internal filters in these things that make them fail so prematurely? just curious im at 269k miles now. looking to start dropping and filling fluid every 30k miles. last flush was at 155k and was done frequently before👍 i dont have issues just liking more info and peoples knowledge. i know you cant really rebuild these things either as ive heard with honda transmissions

i been doing research on oil leaks since i think my cam shaft seal or oil pump gasket is where my leaking is coming from and i heard this can cause issues? i hope not stupid question. definitely learning everyday about stuff with this car c:

i didnt know you can get the cable for the gas door and trunk. you can get a lot of different engine components still too. the body stuff is a hit and miss tho. its cool they sell stuff that should be available like the windshield molding. sucks you cant find molding for the doors or trunk tho. or hell the clip on trim that goes across the doors right under the windows that always peals lol

i bled the coolant as well. was my first time. that was a pain in the ass. that car had some serious air bubbles in the system. but i was happy to see the thermostat hose get hot c:. the old thermostat gasket was pretty bad on one side as well radiator cap (replaced cap as well). have had no overheating at idle no more and i have hot air back at idle :p

whats everything that makes it hard? is it a easy diy? can midwest weather make this job difficult? when i got my alligment done after doing some work tires plus said i had a leak rear passanger side. im noticing it now on the drive way. any suggestions?

how would yall clean the 2 ports the egr valve sits over. spray the holes with combustion/ break cleaner and bristle brush to clean out? is this the way or yall suggest different way? and when cleaning this part do yall do the egr valve side first or the manifold side first? thank you!

you guys ever think about taking your car completely apart to the unibody and doing a full restore? ik theres no value but sentimental speaking id love to do this some day when this car becomes the side car

wisconsin weather plus 267k mile struts being replaced with no blow torche just pb blaster and a prayer the front struts and front outer tie rod ends have been replaced. and i was able to get a alignment this morning. drives pretty well now too compared to before. them rear struts tho? oh boy lol. the fact we got the 2 bolts out for the driver rear on top was a shock. we had to put the new bolts on from the new strut for now cus that side specifically has been getting cooked these last few years due to rust from moisture getting trapped from that plastic vent piece in trunk already being missing when i originally got the car so its just bad in that section. the driver rear side in general is just hanging in for dear life. i thought the mf was going to cave in with the jack stand being where it was having the car on 4 jacks lol. the problem tho was wisconsin weather. for that rod that sits in bottom strut. took us 30 mins to get that bolt loose but the rod would not come out at all. we asumed its the same for the other side so we left it alone for now until we can get that part blow torched so itll be able to come out. aaaand ofc taking it in to get alligned at tires plus they said my rear break line on rear passenger side was leaking a bit💀💀 idk why God gives me these tough battles but aint nothing stopping me to get to 300k miles. i cant wait to replace those back struts tho. i am still impressed those top bolts even came off. happy the other side wont be like that. at least on top. thanks for the read if you made it this far. this was a 2 hour job that turned in to 4 hours almost lastnight. been up since 6. whats yall dilemmas rn?

it has come to my attention that a aftermarket thermostat on these cars does not function properly compared to the oem. and i did do a feely test with the car being hot that the hose where the thermostat is does not get hot so ima go replace that and see if maybe that was apart of my heat dilema and tempt gauge rising at idle dilemma (and please no third head gasket in the near furure dilemma🥲 ahahaha) i hear jacking the car high enough while adding coolant back in help avoid air bubbles if anyone can elaborate on that? like making sure heater core is at the lowest point when adding coolant. something like that?

i watched this 50 min informative video on how to get the intake manifold to clean out the passage ways. and i tell you so many dots clicked getting to the end of this video. this guy was under the impression he was going to be clearing the passages to clear the po401 and what he found was the job was done but the guy put on the wrong intake gasket. it was aftermarket. i asume for the a1 d17. so basically it was missing holes for it to breath right. probably why the code popped up anyways. this then brung me to the fact i didnt know youre taking the intake manifold out to so head gasket job. which MEANS youre replacing that gasket. and i always wondered why the mechanic that did mine last year made the comment (oh yea i cleared the egr passages for you. they were really bad). but ever since then ive had the check engine light on. even after i replaced the egr valve.. so im curious maybe i should go see if the right gasket is in or not lol

was successful able to idle today for awhile with out having to rev to bring idle back down with fans being seated properly now. not loosing any ac either idling. its very hot today was able to keep the ac on high with no issues. i DID notice the temp gauge rise very slightly. like only noticable if ur really paying attention but didnt seem to keep going either. keeping an eye on it for now while im fixing on other things