u/Helpful_Barnacle363

On a 18x9.5 +35 wheel,
265-35 or 265-40, squared setup
G37x sedan

Hey so I got a tune, and needed my ecu replaced because something or other possibly in the wiring of my car wouldn’t let my tuner flash the ecu to tune.

Now there is this high frequency ringing when the car is moving. Drives me nuts. There are forum posts about it on myg37 forums but I was hoping some other people have experienced this problem or have solutions. Seems fairly common

2011 G37X sedan
7at

Alright guys this is going to be a bit of a write up. I’ll start with symptoms and timeline. Then move into steps I’ve taken so far to solve the issues and what I suspect may be the cause(s). Hopefully someone in the future can refer back to this post to diagnose or narrow down a similar issue as well.

Timeline and Symptoms-

1. 2 Years Ago- ISR single exit, y pipe, and Z1 2.5 cold air intakes installed. Throttle bodies and maf sensors cleaned. This is the first time symptoms started occurring.
   Symptoms- Car in drive at a stop, apply throttle, revs flare up as if in idle, then a sudden and hard jolt forward into acceleration.

After a few months the symptom mentioned stopped occurring at all. I believe maybe it stopped because my G’s TCM (Transmission Control Module) learned the power mismatch over time that the torque curve was not designed for.

Next came new spark plugs, z1 high energy coil packs, and transmission drain and fill. Car felt healthier overall after this maintenance. Trans fluid that came out was healthy. This was probably 15-20k miles ago.

No other symptoms.

2. About A Month Ago from today, I had my gallery gaskets and other timing cover maintenance done.
   As well as-
   Throttle body and intake plenum cleaning. Injector and flow bench cleaning. New spark plugs. Poly Engine motor mounts. New Y pipe.

Symptoms-
1. Car in drive, applied throttle, revs would flare up as if in idle, then a sudden and hard jolt forward into acceleration.
(This is the same issue from before that resolved itself, and it came back with a vengeance.)

2. Coming to a stop, the car is about to be at a complete stop, simultaneously I feel a clunk or shift or something I haven’t identified (probably slamming into first gear), as the car stops abruptly. If I apply throttle immediately after this occurs, the 1st symptom mentioned of a jolt on acceleration is guaranteed to occur unless I wait a few seconds at a stop. (Could be the smoking gun)

3. First and second gear under faster acceleration hang pretty high in the revs. Then rest of shifts are smooth.

I am unsure, but I think this is a sticky valve body and the car learned a compensation strategy before. Since the computer was reset during the timing cover maintenance, whatever compensation was learned has gone out the window and it’s now hitting way harder.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction/292601-7at-3rd-gear-shift-flair-hard-shift.html

I decided to perform the full manual ECU/Throttle/Idle relearn procedures. The car shifts better and is idling perfectly, but I’m still seeing some transmission flare under load (which I believe is pretty normal for these cars) it happens in 1-2 gear and can be pretty jolting when the power finally catches after the flare. Currently driving it like a grandma since the relearn and symptoms are happening a lot less.

(Driving in manual does not prevent symptom #2)

Maybe it’s failing cats causing backpressure, maybe it’s the throttle bodies, the transmission or valve body. Or the torque converter. Maybe a TCM relearn is the solution.

Don’t hesitate to correct me if I’m wrong about something. Really just reading stuff online trying to figure it out. Thanks for any help!

Had an iphone 13 where the usb in the center console could play aux with my phone connected. Upgraded to an iphone 17 and usb to usbc is, i guess, too advanced for it to read my phone so wired aux no longer works.

Bluetooth has been working fine but with my old iphone i noticed the sound quality was better wired compared to bluetooth.

Any way to have my newer phone have wired aux like my old phone?

I want to pose this question to whoever receives it in the community because I’ve seen that the best looking Gs are on wheels not that many people are running.

What are the wheels we think really are an actual great fit for our cars?

Oem plus is extremely underrated imo. And modded Gs with the wheel’s style in mind with the rest of the car can be executed well.