Prime Day sales on driers?
Any Prime Day sales for filament driers that work well with the U1? Looking for some recommendations.....thanks!
Any Prime Day sales for filament driers that work well with the U1? Looking for some recommendations.....thanks!
I love finding models I'd hate to print on my X1C but is tailormade for the U1. Just under 12 hours for this print. I paused just above the waist to swap red for beige colored filament. Https://makerworld.com/en/models/2356673-fatman-dark-street#profileId-2577959
Printing this Oni mask took over one day. We had a huge storm during the later portions of the print, so I'm glad the power didn't go out. I used black, red and gold Silk PLA and matte white PLA. Man, I love being able to print this with just a prime tower and minimal purge.
The only bits that don't look as good are under the cylinders on the cheeks and under the top lip. However, you don't really see those areas unless you look from underneath. Otherwise it is a clean print.
15 hr print, no issues found. Used filament that came with the printer. I kick myself for not trying gold silk PLA versus yellow. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2733890-battle-beast-thokk-invincible-multicolor#profileId-3030537
This might be old news to the experienced folks, but I came across a forum posting about how to make supports that come off easier. I've tried this a few times and it works way better for me. I know I could use PETG supports with PLA, or support filament but if you don't have that on hand this might help.
Top Z distance: Increase slightly from 0.2 mm to 0.3 mm. This will make the supports easier to remove by increasing the gap between the support and the model, reducing adhesion.
Bottom Z distance: Keep this at 0.2 mm. Changing this usually does not significantly affect support removal unless you’re experiencing issues with supports sticking to the build plate.
Top interface layers: Reduce from 2 layers to 1 layer. This will make the supports easier to remove but may slightly affect the surface quality.
Bottom interface layers: Reduce from 2 layers to 1 layer. This can help with easier removal if the supports are sticking too much to the build plate.
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/what-to-adjust-for-easier-support-removal/13401/6
This is the third print I've done so far. Came out clean and no issues during the print.
After doing the test print, I decided to do a Miles Morales figure. It looks much better in person than in the picture. And I am loving the reduction in waste and increase of speed over my X1C.
Anyone successfully play XCOM 2 on the Ally Xbox? I have Steam OS running, and it locked up in the tutorial level. Just looking for advice on settings, thanks!
On my Odin Portal 2, I was able to get XCOM 2 from Steam to boot to the opening screen on GameNative v0.9.2, and can move the cursor around but the mouse clicks don't work. I then tried Proton 11 for ARM but then I get heavy graphic issues. I've tried different versions of Turnip and KIMCHI but to no avail. Any suggestions?
I was able to get the game to boot to the opening screen, and can move the cursor around but the mouse clicks don't work. I've read that I need to go into setting to change the control to controller, but I can't get the game to respond to mouse clicks. Any suggestions?
Got a Portal 2 via Amazon (I wanted an easy return just in case), and I really love it so far. I really love the size, weight and screen quality. This is exactly what I was looking for in a device that would stand in for my SteamDeck. The battery life is also great. I look forward to travelling with it, and having more space in my backpack now :)
Installed GameNative right off the bat, and tried two games with it. Plays my less demanding games very well. Also installed Dolphin and tried a Wii game, worked right out of the box. I want to try PS emulation next.