u/Jazzlike_Let_5341

I'm making a retro Seraphon army and painted my first mini!

The actual painting is going to be a loooong learning process, but I wanted to show how well gesso works for layer lines, even with dry brushing.

First pic is with just gesso primer, second is heavy gray drybrush and then white, third is an attempt at painting

Printed at 0.05mm layer height with 0.2mm nozzle on the A1 mini

After trying and tweaking a ton of presets I found what consistently gives me the best results. This has almost no cleaning done except tidying where I over glued.

I did all the standard calibration, then got a smooth cold tack plate (around $15) which works SO MUCH better than the textured PEI plate.

Printed the model in parts.

Started with Dungeon and Derps 2.0 and made the following changes:

Layer height 0.05mm

First layer height 0.15

Bridge flow ratio 1.0

Thick internal bridges on

Reverse on even on

Reverse threshold 0mm

Support top Z distance 0.12

Bottom shell thickness 1.5mm ( if cutting up a model and printing with lots of flat mating surfaces, makes it a breeze)

I have a Bambu A1 with a 0.2mm nozzle and cannot figure out what is going on with my PLA pressure advance values.

I've run the PA tests in both Bambu lab and Orca, pattern and line and tried different filaments.

I wasn't seeing a change with the typical range, so I went big and did 0.0-0.3... still looks about the same

Based on all the calibration guides I have seen, there should be way more of a difference. I'm not sure if I have a hardware issue, am missing a setting or have something else going on.

It's driving me crazy and I would really appreciate any help or suggestions!

Printer details:

Bambu A1 with stock textured PEI plate @65C

0.2mm nozzle

Settings are for default PA test

In preview, PA changes are shown in gradient correctly

Using the settings and advice from everyone here, I've SIGNIFICANTLY improved my prints - now I just have one more main issue: getting the fine edges cleaned up.

The issue is on most of the small sharp edges, I did a benchmark print and it's super obvious there. Any suggestions for how to smooth those out would be super helpful!

Printer and settings:

Bambu A1 with 0.2mm nozzle

ObscuraNox settings with Z offset -0.05 (from calibration)

Sunlu PLA+ 2.0, in dryer @51C

Just finished a benchmark test ( 75% scale because it takes forever with a 0.2 nozzle) and I'm having two big issues:

1. weird rough edges on the tall tower overhangs

2. overhangs on the tower are gnarly, but the actual overhang test is way better

If anyone has advice I would be super grateful!

Printer and settings:

Bambu A1

0.2mm nozzle

ObscuraNox settings ( with Z lowered by 0.05mm )

Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 in dryer @ 51C the whole time

Nozzle temp: 200C

Speed: ( from sliced plate ) 35mm/s main body, 24mm/s spires, 2mm/s big overhangs

After getting advice from you all, I used Orca slicer, ObscuraNox's pinned config file and printed vertical instead of a 45 degree angle. It blows both the fat dragon and the default high quality A1 settings out of the water!

You guys (especially ObscuraNox) are awesome

I'm looking for ideas on how to reduce the support damage on my minis. I rotated the models 45 degrees except for the dreadnought arms since I wanted clean exterior faces.

It is looking gnarly though... Any suggestions on how to reduce the carnage ( and how to salvage these guys ) would be really appreciated!

Print info:

Bambu A1

0.2mm nozzle

Fat dragon config file

Tree supports auto generated

Generic PLA filament