u/KZorroFuego

A quick search shows some posts 6 months back about the ARM role being eliminated. Yet at the one I shop at most frequently, her picture is still up (with that title listed) and she is clearly still working there. Was a new position created? Demotions offered instead of just being gone? What’s the scoop?

Genuinely asking, wondering if anyone else has noticed a decline in quality. Details:

I bought a 2014 new. I made it to just over 40K miles before I needed brakes, front or rear.

Fast forward to now. I'm 3 years into owning a 2023 purchased new, and it's just barely at the 30K mark, and I heard the telltale sign earlier today of the rear brakes starting to go. Just a light not that loud rubbing as the car is coming to a stop, with the brake pedal down. Not like a blatantly obvious screech of metal on metal, but they're definitely getting into bad shape territory.

It's just - it makes NO sense - the rear brakes take wear, sure, but they don't get nearly as much punishment as the front. It all seems very ass backwards as to how these things usually go.

EDIT - Also tried a little experiment just now. Drove it a brief distance and used an IR temp thing to check the rotors, assuming that if the rear brakes WERE royally FUBAR'd, the rear rotors would be much hotter. Instead, they were identical to the temp read on the front (180F)

So today I noticed the Power / Rinse / Done lights were lit solid, machine had halted mid cycle.

Some searching lead me to various resources which indicate which error code is being displayed based on the lights you see, only thing - what I've found doesn't match up with what's happening. (Everything I found said this is a drain error, and that's clearly not what's going on.)

On starting a load with temp set to cold, only the faintest trickle of water comes in, suggesting the mixing valve is toast. Additionally, even after cutting power to the machine, water continues to flow at a trickle out of the valve into the tub, indicating it isn't properly closing either, so had to shut off water supply to the washer.

Tried to "run" it again in order to recreate the error code seen earlier, only for it to trickle for a bit and then out of nowhere drain pump turns on and can't be shut off, had to unplug it.

Any ideas? Or just a general purpose wondering if this is becoming a more common failure point?

Also, I did unhook everything and check thoroughly to make sure it wasn't just random goop clogging up the inlet - definitely not that, they're both squeaky clean.