u/LiveEmergency8217

Redcat ascent 18 build. I posted in here about a cogging issue a few days ago, and I’ve come out this afternoon to try and tune it out.
Plugged in the battery, which was fully charged and is brand new, it’s only been cycled once. Switched on the esc, it gave 3 beeps, as it always does. I switched on my transmitter, it beeped again, I turned the steering a few times, tried to go forward, it didn’t move, i checked reverse, which worked, went to go forward again and it “popped”quite loudly, crackled a few times then literally burst into flames, I quickly popped the body off to disconnect the battery but too late, all the connections had melted off.

Can anyone tell me why? It’s been fine, obviously, until now. I’ve run it probably 10 times, mostly at home tuning, once out on the rocks, always on those ace power 3s batteries in the photo, I’ve never noticed anything get hot, no weird “hot” or burning smells, it’s been fine. I can not work out why this has happened, and I’m pretty pissed off to be honest. Months of waiting for parts, the money I’ve poured into it, the time to build it, and now it’s gone and done this?

Is it a furitek thing, or have I done something I shouldn’t have done? Or is it the battery?

Any advice would be appreciated guys, thanks.

I’ve never experienced this with any of my many crawlers, so I’m going to assume that this is what “cogging” is.

Can anyone explain to me why it does this, and how to fix it? The motor and esc are both brand new, the “micro sense Komodo” motor, and “micropython-sense” esc (first time using furitek) purchased direct from furitek, the rig it self is a brand new build, and I’ve taken it out once for about an hour, didn’t really notice too much of it on the rocks, a little, but I didn’t think anything of it until tonight testing out the new tires it was really bad.

I’ve greased all the gears in the trans, diff and portals, there doesn’t seem to be any resistance whatsoever through the drive line. So I don’t know if I just got a lemon, is that just how they are, or if I haven’t tuned it correctly.. any help would be appreciated

Has anyone had any success swapping their scx10 III nylon portal axles to alloy + brass portals from the scx10 pro?

Treal Hobby do a really sexy alloy and brass set up for the Pro, and I’d absolutely love to know if anyone has done the conversion, before I waste my money 😂
I do believe the links are different lengths, but no idea how different as I can’t seem to find the lengths of them online, so I don’t know if they’re just going to lengthen the wheel base, which could be perfectly fine, or totally throw it out of whack.

Any info would be appreciated, cheers 🙏🏻

Hey all. I’m just wanting to chase up some info on this little rig before I commit to buying it.

Everything about it seems great, 2 speed box, 4ws, the body looks cool as fuck too.
However from what research I’ve done there does seem to be a few things that let it down. The big one is basically the fact that there’s zero aftermarket support for it. The plastic steering and suspension links, and the high centre of gravity and rear weight bias really let it down too.

I’ve read a few threads on various forums and groups, and a lot of people have had success with changing out links and axles, adding brass wheels etc, but what I really want to know, desperately, is how similar this thing is to the FCX24. I’ve heard the axles are essentially a direct fit. And the transmission on the ucx looks very similar to that of the fcx.

So would FCX24 brass links and brass transmission mount fit directly up to the ucx24? Has anyone done it?

And how easy/hard is it to swap out the motor? I haven’t seen anyone do it yet.