Image 1 — [Review Request] Sequel to ESP32 DRV8833 PCB
Image 2 — [Review Request] Sequel to ESP32 DRV8833 PCB
Image 3 — [Review Request] Sequel to ESP32 DRV8833 PCB
Image 4 — [Review Request] Sequel to ESP32 DRV8833 PCB
Image 5 — [Review Request] Sequel to ESP32 DRV8833 PCB
▲ 5 r/PCB

[Review Request] Sequel to ESP32 DRV8833 PCB

I've made some revisions to my last version:
- Added pfet to the battery port for RPP

- Switched my SBR2A40P1-7 for the LM66100DCKT ideal diode

- Added a TPS22918 for inrush current control to keep bypass the 10uF limit on USB VBUS line

I just wanted some feedback on the added features to see if I wired them correctly. I still haven't tested using the correct USBC port, but will ASAP

u/Local_Chip6781 — 3 days ago

Schematic Review

This is a design for a battery powered ESP32 controlled DRV8833 car. Forgot to include in the pictures, but I am using a 103450 battery.

My main questions are:

- Will my 3V3 configuration work for the CH340C

- Is the soft start/load switching circuit functional

u/Local_Chip6781 — 6 days ago
▲ 3 r/DellXPS+1 crossposts

XPS 13 9305 constantly freezing when unplugged

Every time I leave my laptop unplugged and unattended for more than 30 minutes, it seems to just freeze without explanation. Pressing the power button for a second does nothing, and the caps lock light doesn't change when I press it. Every time I need to hard shut down my laptop before it will work again.

Sometimes when I try to change the brightness (Fn + up/down arrow), the brightness bar will appear, but the level wouldn't change, and it seems like a precursor sign to my laptop freezing.

My BIOS is up to date, and my laptop passed all the quick scan tests.

reddit.com
u/Local_Chip6781 — 9 days ago
▲ 7 r/PCB

[Review Request] ESP32 RC Battery Car, Failed to start

This is an ESP32 board designed to control two 300mA stall current motors via DRV8833. It has a load switching circuit with a battery. It also has exposed I2C and SPI pins for when I want to add additional header boards.

I already got my board made and soldered the components myself, although I definitely should have tried getting feedback first.

Here's the list of things that happened in the process of testing (battery disconnected for the entire process):

- Tested for any shorts between adjacent pins with a multimeter (no issues)

- Tested for continuity between IC pins and where they should connect on another component to make sure solder joints were ok

- Plugged the PCB into my computer via USBA cable

- Found the voltage on the 5V rail read ~1.4V (multimeter found no shorts on the voltage rails)

- I thought the issue could be with the USBC 10uF max capacitance, so I removed the 47uF bulk caps on the DRV8833 and the 22uF cap next to the LDO (didn't fix)

- Removed D3 (part of the load switching circuit) and the TVS diode for the USBC port (didn't fix)

- Finally re-did the joints on the connector, and it worked :D, but when I reconnected D3 the voltage at the EN pin of the LDO only read 1.6V (turns out I broke one of the diode pins while desoldering it)

- I shorted D3 with a wire, then my CH340C gets hella hot, immediately unplugged. I replaced it with a fresh chip, thinking that previous work fried it, but it got immediately fried again.

A few things that I should probably fix:

- Decoupling cap for the CH340C is placed next to the wrong pin

- Change the CH340C to 5V configuration (?)

Thank you for reading this far, I really don't want to spend more money on components, so I would appreciate any help I could get.

u/Local_Chip6781 — 11 days ago