Image 1 — Help me decide on a GT4 Livery
Image 2 — Help me decide on a GT4 Livery
Image 3 — Help me decide on a GT4 Livery
Image 4 — Help me decide on a GT4 Livery

Help me decide on a GT4 Livery

So im currently turning this 1968 Trabant Estate Wreck into a microcamper, just light enough to tow it behind my actual Trabant. That yellow paint made me wonder what kind of tomfoolery I could do with the livery… Pennzoil maybe? What other well known yellow cars are in GT4 (and/or GT3)?

u/Maiskaiser — 3 days ago

Fahrradträger Anhängerkupplung

Guten Morgen. Ich baue derzeit diesen alten Trabi Kombi zu einem Wohnwagen um. Mit dem Tüv ist Rücksprache gehalten für eine Abnahme. Soweit sieht alles gut aus. Eine Schwierigkeit steht aber noch an

Der Wohnwagen hat noch seine Anhängerkupplung. Diese würde ich ungerne abmontieren wollen. Der Tüv sagte er würde die AHK auch nicht bemängeln WENN sie eine Platte für Fahrradgepäckträger hat. Diese soll das anhängen von anderen Anhängern an diesen Anhänger verhindern. Ich habe so eine aber noch nicht gesehen. Wer von euch weiß worum es sich handelt oder hat eventuell sogar Bilder davon?

u/Maiskaiser — 16 days ago

Converting a Socialist Shitbox - Collecting Ideas

Pictures for Context, original advertisement material for the Wartburg 1.3 Tourist

Hello everyone. I’m a 26yo guy from Germany whos deeply into East German socialist shitbox cars. Currently dailying a Trabant. My family is growing so I’m looking into swapping the Trabants big brother, the Wartburg 1.3, to an EV to have a reliable and comfortable yet great looking car that I’ll daily for years if not decades to come

The Wartburg 1.3 was made in former eastern Germany from 1988 until 1991 and has a 1272cc 58hp VW engine, similar to the one found in the Golf 2, early Golf 3 and in the Polo 86c and Polo Mk3, it’s an EA111 engine. It’s FWD with a Transverse engine BUT body-on-Frame design, which makes it very unique. It also has dual wishbone suspension with 4 piston floating disk brakes in the front and trailing arm suspension with drum brakes in the rear. Beneficially it does NOT have a break booster so I won’t need an electric Vacuum Pump. It was made as a Limousine and an Estate (named Tourist by IFA who owned the entire car lineup of the country)

The Tourist has a little extra payload capacity compared to the Limousine, which is why I wanna go with that instead. Like that I hope to have less issues with battery weight later down the line

I’ve been reading a little in this sub and the overseas guys seem to really enjoy taking Nissan Leafs as parts donors, but these aren’t as common or cheap here in Europe. Which car is a good pick to tear apart? I’ll need over 40kW of engine power but no more than 60kW as registration might be hard once I exceed +40% engine performance on stock brakes

Is there any hope in me being able to use DC fast charging when on the road? The 1.3 has a tow bar in many cases and I wanna be able to tow a camper through the country. For daily use I’ll be fine with roughly 150km (~95 miles) of EV range. I have 11kW 3-Phase power at home for a charging station but likely will be fine with a common outlet (3.6kW) too

I am an industrial electrician so I’m not worried about working with the high voltages and currents involved, even 400V is practically common for me to encounter in everyday life

Not sure if I missed anything else, looking forward to hear about your tips, Tricks and suggestions

u/Maiskaiser — 2 months ago

Need help: 2001 Suzuki AY50 WR won’t crank

Just stumbled over this subreddit by chance and hope you guys can help me. I bought a cheap vandalized 2001 Suzuki Katana AY50 with the watercooled engine.

It was driven by the daughter of an obese dude and then the dude himself before it was parked. Last year a group of youths stole it and cracked through the plastic to break the ignition switch off and Hotwire it. Seems they didn’t get it started as they abandoned it 100m down the street where police found and returned it

When I got it it had a flat battery, replaced that but no crank. The starter got power and the relay clicked. Replaced the starter with a cheap eBay unit. The old one was rusted and seized, the new one spun as long as it wasn’t installed. The gear it’s supposed to turn is really hard to move. When I try to crank it off the electric start the fuel gauge dips a little so the starter is pulling a decent current and tries to spin

The kickstarter isn’t an option either as the teeth on the shaft it’s bolted onto are pretty dull and a serious kick will have the kickstarter spin on the shaft without cranking the engine. Combining both kickstarter and electric starter doesn’t help either

The engine isn’t seized, I had the CVT cover off and spun the crankshaft by its output wheel. It has compression and spark too. When I tested for spark I found the cylinder literally flooded with pure two stroke oil

The gear that the starter motor is supposed to turn seems somewhat muddy. How can I clean that? Should I pour ATF into it and let it rest on the side?

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u/Maiskaiser — 3 months ago