Now we know why the eviction tenants pulled the smoke detector off the wall.... 😬
Now it's a roach detector
Now it's a roach detector
Hey! Having an issue with the tail light wiring on the 86 Squarebody Suburban I have.
I figured I'd see a dark green wire going to the Right brake light. What comes through the grommet is a series of black wires. There's a green one that goes to the Reverse light however.
With the light switch left Off, this light will illuminate at half brightness when I press the Brakes. Of course, the Left Turn+Brake light illuminates at full brightness.
With the light switch pulled out and turned On, this light does not illuminate any further when brakes pressed (I guess it is expected to be receiving 2x voltage)
Pulling Left brake light housing, the expected wires are present vs this diagram I included that I referenced.
Pulling Right brake light housing I have the confusing colors I mentioned. There is a dark green, a black, and yellow wire going into the grommet. Then out of it I have all these other colors but no dark green. The light green goes to Reverse lamps.
We know that:
-Brake switch is functional
-Bulbs are all functional
-Turn signals are functional
-Left (Driver Side) brake light works 100% as intended
-Left side has continuous matching wire colors from wire loom, through grommet.
But,
-The Right Brake Light only illuminates half way total, and doesn't illuminate any further upon pressing the brakes, with the lights switched on
-The dark green wire disappears after passing through that grommet
Just a little confused 😬 thanks!
Context
Kubota b2630, D1105 engine, it's old and barely had any routine maintenance before me. It was ran a long time with a sludgy filter and catch, and had a severely plugged air filter. All fluids were low besides motor oil for the longest time. Anyway
Recently, it started to miss. Not all the time. Then one day I tried to start it and it had a hard time starting.
-Shook out fuel catch and filter (was pretty clean, actually)
-re-primed fuel with bleeder
Got it to start reliably, but I could audibly hear it was only firing on two cylinders.
Cracked bleeder again maybe there's some air. No.
-Replaced the injector that wasn't firing, with brand new injector
Still no fire on that injector (front of engine)
In video, you can see I crack the nut above the 1st, 2nd, and then 3rd suspect injector. First two cause engine to begin to stall.. Third, no difference. Question is, since fuel is squirting out, is the injector to blame? It's new. But I doubt it's an air pocket or something, the injector came primed.
On the list for today is to swap the order and see if the issue moves. Will post updates
Any ideas so far though? What do we think?
Internet tells me if pump had been sucking in low quality fuel with moisture or algae (which there was plenty of in the filter I replaced.... A few months back..) that can wear the pump out.
I am sure in ideal conditions these pumps would last more than 15 years. Definitely far from ideal conditions. I don't think any previous workers had maintaining this machine in their contract. They didn't, either way
Thank you
Ever since they added Cleanup Crew and the Museum (and now, lately, you can see what looks like a mechanical tentacle thing over one of the backdrops of the rest stop/shop in the distance,) I have had a feeling it is a slight implication that there was perhaps a nuclear event that wiped out the humans that once inhabited REPO universe. The reason I think this is because a cleanup crew could be the group of people sent to clean up a hazardous area, and then were turned into the enemy/monster from radiation/etc. Note there's multiple voices on the heads, which implies a blobbed together mass of multiple individuals.
The Fandom Wiki implies Cleanup Crew was called Cleanup Crew because the game originally was called Cleanup game, but I think that that's not quite it. Of course also, there's evidence of previous humanity in lots of the secret or less visited areas of the game too.
Anyone else feel the same way?
Having to retrofit a few units
Can't seem to find any UL listed CO2 and Smoke alarms (or even just smoke alarms, regardless,) that will accept hard wiring for power with a battery backup, but have a wireless interconnect.
All I can find are wireless-interconnect + battery combos, or wired + wired.
I need wired + wireless. 😞
Kidde used to make some, and so did First Alert, as per my research. Local code enforcement said they are ok with Wireless. Would be better than running a bunch of conduit and new wire, since they're rentals. Thanks guys!