Wanting to drop the fps on a couple of my rifles & was looking at the Unicorn 6.10 barrel. Has anyone used a bore size that big & if so what was your results? I’ve used a 6.08 on a hpa build before with great results, just wondering if it would be the same result on a gas gun.
I spent some time yesterday machining a different design to my nozzle restrictor I use in my rifles. It was just a flat disc but I wanted something that seemed more stable in the nozzle assembly so I machined this style. I did one with a .075 orifice, it got me .98-1.0j for my indoor Ghetto Blaster. Then I machined another one that got me 1.24-1.29j with a .088 orifice. Consistency is pretty good too.
Someone mentioned shimming the rocket valve on one of my other post about the low flow disc/resistor I machined for my Kwa 416. And being the type of person I am I had to try it. Yesterday I took the valve, used toilet paper & superglue glued on top of the valve then used my lathe to straighten everything up. I had to glue more tp on the valve cause I didn’t add enough but got it to 1.4j on .36’s. 😎
Now I have a template I can get measurements off of & machine a new one from aluminum. The main thing is that the recoil is way harder with the shimmer valve!!
I was watching a video today on a M110a1 & in the video the guy drilled holes in the carrier. But he never said the purpose of it. So that got me thinking why would someone do this & what would be the benefits of it?
I just shot my Kwa 416, CGS Daniel Defense & DE N4 all at 70m. Kwa is factory other than a low flow disc & CGS has 60* ML bucking & a lower power valve. All shooting .36’s. Shooting down a shooting lane, trees on both side & no wind. Both the Kwa & cgs shot straight till around the 50m mark then some bb’s would just hook left, right or straight up. The N4 shot straight the whole way to target, the N4 has a low flow disc installed. The N4 I was able to put 10/15 on target. The other 2 if the bb flew straight I could it on target also bit just wasn’t consistent. Any ideas what would cause bb flight to just hook in a certain direction out a that distance??
All rifles are shooting 1.3j on .36’s.
I’ve searched in several spots & I can’t find any kind of kit that consists of all the springs & such to “winterize” your gbbr. Is there such a kit? I’m looking for all the springs & components to “winterize” one of my DE N4’s.
If there’s not a kit could yall throw a list of things I would need together & where to get them at? Thanks.
I have fielded this rig one time since I got it. Now I got it used & when I got it there was no damage to the parts in the pictures. But the bolt wouldn’t lock back & I found all those buffers in the buffer tube. I removed them & gun ran perfect, so I thought. Doing a tear down this morning & noticed the damage. I’m assuming that at least one of those buffers should have been left in the tube.
Question: the damage on the weight on the end of the bolt, should I put that in my lathe & chamfer the edge? If I do that with a rolled radius it seems like that would a fine fix or should replace it?
Trying to determine which optic I want to run. I like the simple look of just the red dot, I like the magnification of the lpvo & the magnifier is kinda the best of both worlds. It I don’t really care for the look. Which one yall think?
Does oring material matter? I replaced the nozzle oring while I had the nozzle apart installing a low flow disc/flow restrictor. I lubed it with a small amount of oil. But the oring I replaced it with was a vition oring not the normal black one. Vition was recommended to me by a AirSoft tech. But now on empty mag lock back the nozzle gets stuck out. Should I replace it with a normal black oring?
Was playing around with my N4 Ghetto Blaster & my Kwa 416. I machined low flow disc/inserts for both of these guns. What’s y’all’s thoughts on the consistency I’m getting with these disc/inserts. The 1.0j screen shoot is my Ghetto Blaster I set up for indoors, the other is the 416. It seems like pretty good consistency to me.
Finally able to join the HK gang. I’ve been wanting a 416 for while & came across this one at the swap meet last weekend. Gun & 5 mags, none of the mags leak, only issue was the suppressor seems to be bent. I don’t understand how that happens. Had to machine a low flow disc to get to 1.3j with .36’s. Shoots great now, I’m gonna take it apart one last time to clean everything again, then start looking for accessories.
Kwa 416D gun & mags paid $300 I feel like I got a decent deal.
Picked this up at the swap meet last weekend. What accessories should I install? I’ve always been a m4 guy, I need some smg inspiration!
Looking for a way to lower the fps on the Kwa 416 I just got. It’s shooting 2.3j with .36’s. I need to get down to 1.3j to be safe. I’ve never worked on a Kwa, only Mws clones & the T8 system. On those I machined a low flow disc that went in the nozzle to lower the fps.
Got this at the swap meet this weekend. Guy said he thought it was Kwa but wasn’t 100% sure.
What’s the consensus on zero distance? I zero all mine at about 35m & hold over for farther shots.
How much of a difference does the hammer spring adjustment make on the CGS system? About how many turns can you unscrew it with out taking the box out to see the side of it?
Picked this up last night. Gonna do a tear down on it & clean everything today. It’s never been fielded just shot in the yard & laid under a table. The only thing I can find wrong after running all the mags through it last night for a few shots is that none of the mags will lock the bolt open. Even if you pull the bolt catch it want lock the bolt.
Going to a swap meet next week & looking for reason prices for these rifles.
DMR hpa’ed with an Inferno & Spartan board. Mad bull barrel, prowin hop up & 7 mags. Will not come with sight pictured but a scope instead.
Ghm9-G as pictured with 11 mags
Smg-8 as pictured with 5 mags.
The other day I installed some 165mm(had 170mm) cranks & an oval chain ring. I was kinda skeptical about the addition of these parts. It was total wrong. I went from a 30t ring to the 32t & rode the same trail I rode 2 days prior. I really couldn’t tell a difference on flat ground but on the trail where I was before shifting into lower gears I was able to ride the whole trail in 3rd & 4th. I was also able to finish the trail in 11 minutes faster. Sonia pretty stoked!!
I have a chance to get this bike. From the little bit of research I’ve done it’s around early 2000’s maybe Uzzi. I can’t really find a ton of info on it. Can yall tell more about? Maybe value??