Hello I've currently learn sewing and im making a cross collar tshirt

I never worn hanfu before so i don't know if this gap below chest normal or not, i figure out this is probably why the belt exist?

but would really like to know if this is normal or not or im doing something wrong here

so if you have worn hanfu with this type of collar would really appreciate if you share your experience

Arms to the side look flat enough and does not look weird i think

T Pose, it opens a lot

Raise my arm higher it opens a lot of gaps

I've been trying to follow youtube tutorial how to draft kimono sleeve, the problem is either the Shoulder Line Match or The Sleeve Underarm Seam Match

My Current Front and Back Panel

at this specific timestamp

https://youtu.be/j5VQZGN87e0?t=247

she said if the front and back panel side neck point match, the shoulder seam should be the same

So i tried matching it up, and it lined up correctly, however at the second pattern check

The shoulder line match correctly

I tried to match the underarm seam following the tutorial

https://preview.redd.it/5tvl9dl4jrih1.png?width=906&format=png&auto=webp&s=f937e2d3d840f662f24d66743f2c4c96cd6f892e

Mine does not match properly since the front and back underarm seam is different length

This is zoom in length number of the underarm seam matched (previous image)

Is this normal or am i doing something wrong here, because if i lengthen the underarm seam then the shoulder length will be longer and does not match so i cant think of any other way to do this

Any ideas?

I've been trying to follow youtube tutorial how to draft kimono sleeve, the problem is either the Shoulder Line Match or The Sleeve Underarm Seam Match

My Current Front and Back Panel

at this specific timestamp

https://youtu.be/j5VQZGN87e0?t=247

she said if the front and back panel side neck point match, the shoulder seam should be the same

So i tried matching it up, and it lined up correctly, however at the second pattern check

The shoulder line match correctly

I tried to match the underarm seam following the tutorial

https://preview.redd.it/5tvl9dl4jrih1.png?width=906&format=png&auto=webp&s=f937e2d3d840f662f24d66743f2c4c96cd6f892e

Mine does not match properly since the front and back underarm seam is different length

This is zoom in length number of the underarm seam matched (previous image)

Is this normal or am i doing something wrong here, because if i lengthen the underarm seam then the shoulder length will be longer and does not match so i cant think of any other way to do this

Any ideas?

My 5th project in learning sewing and pattern drafting,

basically i had the idea of creating Hanfu Cross Collar but as a t shirt so that it could be wear casually and easily However I noticed there is a gap on my overlaped collar.

Fabric Used:

100% Cotton 16s | Heavy Weight Cotton Knit |

My Current Analysis is:

1. Because this is straight cut t-shirt basically there will be an extra fabric at the side which will cause the fabric to fold (Circled in Red)
2. Because the t shirt fold it open a gap because the front panel fold outward away from my body (Green Line) and the Inner fabric fold inwards which caused a gap
3. Or It Could be my collar ended high up in my body side seam It should be on the lower part? (near stomach i think?)

https://preview.redd.it/vbrltvp55xgh1.png?width=640&format=png&auto=webp&s=61a53c1a8ac2b1cb76c11af7b7def83cab6b19ce

Solution I have found:

1. I have noticed people typically wear this type of collar with a belt so i figure it was probably to solve this problem?? so i tied a cloth and it does solve it but i think it defeated the simplicity of a tshirt
2. I tried pinning it to basically lock the overlaped fabric below chest together so that it fold together instead of apart, it does achieve the result i want, i would probably add a button as an anchor

https://preview.redd.it/s3gy8dp95xgh1.png?width=640&format=png&auto=webp&s=6c27a9c463627546e6e3aec2914665954aba14d3

This is my current pattern

This is how it looked if it was overlapped

Question

1. Is it normal for this type of collar to have a gap below chest or is it pattern drafting mistake?
2. I finally check a few video of someone on the internet teaches how to wear clothes with this type of construction, basically they use a tie for this type of overlap. an it seems like the overlapped bodice did not complete full half circle from side seam to side seam, so because it does not complete half circle there is a gap which then they use a tie sewn on the side seam and the bodice to basically serve as a tension to pull the overlapped fabric together
3. If number 2 is the right method is it imposible to make it
   1. Collar does not have gaps
   2. Without Outer Belt
   3. Without Button or Stitch both overlap together

Question no 2 | This is my interpretation from the video, the green line is a tie

Contact me if you need additional information, would really appreciate your insight

Hello, this is my third project in learning sewing

https://preview.redd.it/ykvv336y0kbh1.png?width=782&format=png&auto=webp&s=bf25ab0342c6c705bfb4437f787da3d14ffb10a7

I've been trying to make a cuban collar shirt, in the inside button placket facing i simply added 3cm Seam Allowance so i can just double fold it later however during sewing i realized that double fold hemming doesnt work properly as i intended

https://preview.redd.it/vswzjhr71kbh1.png?width=360&format=png&auto=webp&s=eac796d0547cac9bc402c91e4ee83dcaebfc3057

It just became rounded instead of sharp 90 Degree Angle

https://preview.redd.it/5lj8lizw1kbh1.jpg?width=1496&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bcd6d5da533e5991cf79c3fe11b1b94a0bd9b045

Question, is it possible to maintain the sharp angle without another facing?