u/One-Yak-7303

For a while the air direction on my Roadster just wouldn't change. Slider moved but nothing happened — air kept blowing in the same direction no matter what position I set it to.Decided to dig behind the dashboard central pod first to see what was actually going on.

Turns out the ventilation flap mechanism behind the slider was the culprit. Accessed it, inspected it, fixed it in under 5 minutes with some hot glue. It is a similar setup on the Fortwo model 450.

Finally swapped the center console trim the other day and honestly, it completely changed the look of the interior.
Took off the old plastic piece and put in this leather-look one with white stitching — feels way more premium and gives it that S4 vibe. The install wasn't complicated, everything lined up perfectly!

A few months ago my Roadster started losing power and smoking. Took it to a mechanic who quoted me an eye-watering amount just for labour. So I decided to do it myself.

Honestly, it's not an easy job. You have to remove the rear bumper, crash bar, exhaust, intercooler pipes, TIK pipe, EGR pipes, oil and coolant hoses before you can even touch the turbo. But once you know the order of operations, it's very doable without a workshop.

Used a BR Turbo replacement kit. Car passed technical inspection after and drives better than it has in years.

I documented the whole process in a full 1 hour video if anyone is planning the same job:

https://youtu.be/r9J5BO7jGpw

Happy to answer questions — has anyone else done this themselves or did you take it to a shop?

My Smart started overheating recently — turned out the thermostat had failed. For reference, normal operating temp on these cars sits around 88-90°C. If yours is sitting low around 70°C, it's likely stuck open. If it's climbing fast past 100°C, it's likely stuck closed — that's the dangerous one.

The annoying part is that most guides for this job tell you to drop the engine just to access the thermostat. I found a way to do it without dropping the engine.

Made a full video showing the process on both the Fortwo 450 and Roadster 452:

https://youtu.be/bcAc5Q6LRxo

Picked up this blue Roadster knowing it had issues. One of the biggest was the soft top — it hadn't opened in years. The previous owner told me the electric roof was dead and his electrician had disconnected every single roof connector just to be safe.

We all know the whole point of the Roadster is that roof dropping at the touch of a button. Without it, it's just not the same car.

So I decided to dig in — replaced the roof motor, reconnected all the connectors, and sprayed everything with contact cleaner to see if there was any life left in it.

Made a full video of the process if anyone is dealing with the same issue:

https://youtu.be/_dbE9vj2eVU

Anyone else had a dead roof on their Roadster? What was the cause on yours?

The original rubber retention cord on my Roadster finally gave up after 20 years — dried out, cracked and snapped. Classic age-related failure on these cars.

Found an exact replacement on AliExpress for under 3$. Fits both the Fortwo and Roadster perfectly, takes 2 minutes with no tools at all.

Hey guys,

Track day prep is officially underway for my Smart Roadster (452)! To handle the heat and abuse at the track, I just upgraded the ignition system with a set of 10mm Formula Power Race Performance cables and racing ignition coils.

Since the twin-spark 3-cylinder engine packaging is incredibly tight, changing all 6 plugs and wires is a major mission. I put together a quick, step-by-step guide showing exactly how to get it done.

The Key Benefits of This Upgrade:

• Smoother Idle & Better Throttle Response: Eliminates weak spark and high-rpm misfires under heavy track conditions.
• Maximum Durability: Heavy-duty 10mm insulation handles extreme engine bay heat much better than thin factory wires.
• More Efficient Combustion: Delivers a stronger, cleaner spark to all 6 spark plugs.

The exact same modification and process applies if you are working on a Smart Fortwo 450 or a Crossblade!

In the video, I walk through the entire process—including how to pull the intake manifold and throttle body to reach the hidden upper coil packs, the specific tools to use, and all the factory torque specs.

Check out the full 8:50 visual walkthrough here:https://youtu.be/TN-dL-OCw6Y

Let me know if you've done this upgrade on your car!

We all know the stock lighting on the Smart 452 is weak — and it only gets worse over time. After a lot of research, I finally found quality LED bulbs at a great price that require zero modifications — pure plug & play!

Have them for 3 months, no overheating issues or radio interference
The difference is massive — check the photos!

All parts that I used: https://linktr.ee/smart.racer