▲ 73 r/LegoCars
76470 Harry Potter Anglia modified
removable hard top, opening hood, steering. had fun making this one
u/Plastic-Kiwi-1366 — 1 day ago
▲ 100 r/LegoCars
Built another Cj5
this is a revised version of the first Cj5 I built (last pic). Without a doubt these are the most complex LEGO MOCs I have built. this one is all LEGO other than the tire cover fabric and a few plated counterfeit parts
u/Plastic-Kiwi-1366 — 7 days ago
▲ 3 r/ToyotaPickup
Questions about front suspension rebuild kits. 1990 2wd.
hello everyone,
my wife’s cousin asked me to help rebuild the front suspension on his 1990 2wd.
I’m looking for suggestions on what kits to buy. Balljoints and steering is totally shot.
I went on Amazon and was kinda concerned by the extremely low prices. Im more than happy to pay low prices but geez these kits seem really cheap.
thank you!
u/Plastic-Kiwi-1366 — 29 days ago
▲ 10 r/EngineBuilding
A habit of mine… a mechanic told me it’s not necessary. Main caps and rod caps…
For starters I’m not a professional. Im a hobbyist thats set in my ways.
in casual conversation with a mechanic that dropped by my work we got into the discussion about engine building And rituals that you “just do just because”.
2 things that I do every time and he shot down as unnecessary.
I never swap main bolts to studs unless the block is going out for machine work.. studs= a totally different clamping force… that’s my opinion. He said it makes a negligible difference
I always put feeler gauge strips between the crank and rod thrust when torquing the rod caps to prevent twisting the the entire rod assembly (including the bearing) on the rod journal. again my ritual was shot down.
Now I will always do it this way simply because I never had an issue with it. But what do you guys think of it?
u/Plastic-Kiwi-1366 — 2 months ago
▲ 6 r/ForteGT
u/Plastic-Kiwi-1366 — 2 months ago
▲ 12 r/ForteGT
The Whiteline swaybar with stock end links has been a balancing act from left to right to keep the links from hitting the crossmember. the stock links are very short and I had considered drilling new holes in the lower control arms to reposition them. the only thing that kept me from doing this was the arms are already damn near sheetmetal and I was concerned about fatigue and cracks in the future.
So I bought a set of SPL links for a Veloster N in hopes they will solve the issue. They did. in the pics you can see the head is about 1/4” thinner, perfect amount for plenty of room. they are a tad longer and I’m not sure how it will change the handling characteristics yet. One thing I modified was the misalignment cones, i rounded off the edges to help them slide into place because stock was sharp as hell and catching on the holes when trying to install: Clean easy job I should have done years ago.
u/Plastic-Kiwi-1366 — 2 months ago