u/PlasticSpend3462

I wrote some python code to pull data from Airthings Wave and also query weather databases to plot radon level versus weather data. Right now I read the last 24 hour radon level in Beq, local barometric pressure and precipitation over the last 24 hours. This is data from my home which has radon mitigation installed. I added the precipitation data just a few days ago so it wasn't active during the first bump up in radon level. Will still continue to develop and add more inputs for correlation studies.

https://preview.redd.it/zi1pml4osith1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&s=fc5f17433702f2b1dc3ebc00197cc31c442593f0

Under contract for home purchase. Seller has agreed to provide credit for mitigation. My question has anyone had mitigation fail to reduce radon to safe levels? Property is in Ohio and test came back ~13. House was built in the later 1940's but upgraded since. Basement is partially finished and slap doesn't look like 1940 concrete. There is a sump and pump which makes me feel a little better but we don't know whats under the slab.

Below was posted in another forum and had me curious. Has anyone used or heard of the DynoMet software to evaluate HP? From a physics point of it makes sense, if you know the weight of the car and the gear ratio from crank to the wheels you should be able to estimate the torque at the wheels from the measured acceleration. Of course some assumption about losses would have to be made.

I’ve always felt that the car’s performance figures were slightly different from what the manufacturer claims.

Many people have tested these cars and, under normal road conditions, achieved 0–100 km/h times of around 3.6–3.7 seconds (compared to the claimed 4.2 seconds).

The car is also quite heavy compared to an M4 — by more than 150 kg.

I’ve been working in the automotive industry for 15 years, and this morning I was curious to test my own car using the latest version of DynoMet V3 Pro, recently released.

My personal car: Mercedes CLE 53 AMG (2025, 10,500 km), full tank of fuel and one person weighing 85 kg. The measurements were taken in 4th gear, in RACE mode with 100 RON Octane fuel

These are the results after three measurements:

501 HP @ 5,999 RPM

675 Nm @ 4,584 RPM

And good sense? I haven't had been pulled over in a long time. I use common sense, I am never rabbit (unless I am the only car on the highway) and Waze/HR. With the prevalence of Lidar I am sure the V1G2 is an excellent radio but I am not sure it would give me that extra protection in Ohio. Any other Ohio experience here?

I have been really enjoying my CLE53 for almost a year now. I don't plan to track it. I drive probably 99% of the miles in comfort mode. Even up to moderately illegal speeds its way fast enough for me. Sport or Sport+ is fun and to show off a passenger and high rpms a kind of cool. But for public roads I find comfort sporty enough. If I find some twisties I can also go into I mode and stiffen up the dampers if I want that.

Am I just an old fogey? What do you guys use sport modes for?

Probably dumb post but... My ppf installer loves using an ONR mix for window cleaning. I have used it for a while but someone told me just to use invisible glass. Skip the other "special" glass cleaners. He was right, along with Rag Company FTW its fantastic. I am not even sure FTW is necessary (those towels are pricey).

I am trying to improve and my vision of the board needs to get way better. I am resigning after early blunders because I just don't want to fight back yet. It drops my elo and I further matches are with weaker opponents. Is this bad sportsmanship?

Sources and/or recommendations?

Been playing exclusively 15-10 and stuck around 500 ELO. Does playing 5 min blitz help at all getting better?

I have 2025 CLE53. I will probably keep it a few years after warranty runs out, 7 years likely. I don't drive it much likely will be under 60K miles by then.

60K is not a lot miles, 7 years might be not be a short time. What can happen by then? I am thinking 48V system alone is a lurking risk that can might be worth a warranty. I would just need to check if 48 battery is a "wear and tear" item on the contract though...

Thinking about it.