I'm looking (but not yet) at the TGH, but seem to be leaning towards the Nightshade (of course I'd pick the top tier >.<). What are the key talking points for the top 3 trims (non-Max) that I should know about? I should probably make a list of needs / wants before such a post, but I'm not Supposed to be car shopping either (anytime soon).
Short Version: I'm trying to custom make a sliding drawer for an aquarium so that I can access it once built / installed on the current stand. The stand already has a 20 gal on the top right now and a smaller 5.5 gal where I'm trying to put a 15 gal (to replace it). All with the skill level of a novice who likely already has the tools needed, but needs guidance.
I need to start by referencing the original post with the bulk of the details / measurements.
It's been a minute since I've been able to look further into this project and I 'think' I'm at the point where I can start gathering materials, but I need help with a couple of those. After lots of looking, I found these that should fill the need of a railing system and are rated at ~40% above what the likely load maximum would be. It's interesting that they can be used either on the sides (of a drawer) or underneath. Not sure which route I'd prefer TBH, but suspect that "on the sides" would likely be more ideal if I were to Also decide to connect a bar between to allow me to engage them one-handed.
That leaves everything (mounted) between them and the original platform needing identified. It sounds like these don't come with screws, so I'd need suggestions down to that level. I'd need to mount them to a platform with a footprint of 30-1/4" L x 14-1/2" W to serve as the surface for which the tank will sit on. The tank's footprint is 24-1/4" L x 12-1/2" W and will be left aligned slightly in order to accommodate hardpoints on the stand. Whatever I find, it needs a smooth outer surface that is water resistant.
What orientation the slides get mounted will of course determine much else. If they're vertically installed, then they'd need some sort of framing or something as simple as a few sets of L-brackets to mount the whole thing to the stand's shelf. I probably wouldn't need that for an undermount scenario as they would mount directly to the bottom of the moving shelf.
It's a bit late so I'll come back and check on this tomorrow. Hopefully that all made sense.
I currently have an 1875W extension cord magnetically attached to the side of the fridge and the unit's cord is attached to that for ease of access during a power outage. That works so far, but I've also been thinking about what I can use the dual door cabinet above the fridge as it's Really inconvenient to access (Like, need to get on a ladder and stretch difficult). I've considered so many things, but the one practical concept has been to route an UPS to the fridge and house the UPS in the cabinet. I've not looked to see how many screws they put into these (kitchen rebuilt in last 5 years) cabinets yet, but I figure there's got to be an average minimum to expect out of them.
This is what I've been using on all the other equipment in the house (TV, consoles, etc), but then this came across my feed recently as well. Both allow passthrough power (IE: don't have to disconnect fridge to / from main), but the latter has double the uptime most likely.
Either way, I'll have to put a hole in the bottom of said cabinet to route cables of course, but any Other suggestions to consider (besides whole home options) would be nice to have as I also have freezers / fridge in the garage that I'll probably hook up to something more freestanding.
I think I'm ready to just bite the bullet on upgrading this to the latest variant. I was trying to see if it'd ever go on sale, but it's been a static $900 since I first added it to the wishlist. I'm just looking to see if there's anything else I need to get to go with it. It already has a maestro device that it's connected to, so I'm guessing that's why it talks to the steering wheel, rear camera, etc. It does Not seem to talk to the other sensors of the car, however, as I can't get any dash data or even tire pressure (presuming that requires special valves).
Once that's settled, I'm not exactly happy with what is likely the OEM rear camera, so I was wondering what it would take to do a 'simple' swap. IE: mount a new camera exactly where the original one is. I'd rather not attach it anywhere else (IE: License plate).
That's about as far as I can think of right now. Feel free to bring up things I may not know about.
Image for reference
Hopefully a simple question, but I only want One of these per direct line from the PSU, right? IE: It'd be a dumb idea to connect say 2 of these to 2 of the 4 connections on the single cable from the PSU I assume. I have a mix of SSDs and HDDs and keep trying to think of ways to use what I've got vs sitting on the shelf.
So I've had this car since Dec '23 apparently and the issue has transcended multiple devices, OS versions, cables, etc, so I'm pretty sure whatever's wrong is inside the car / head unit. Wired to port shown on the left and tried multiple cords. Even securing them so they don't wiggle during the drive.
What Was a random issue here and there in known problematic signal areas has now turned into "How about today I disconnect every 10-15 seconds through every song?". I thought it was the actual App on the phone when used in conjunction with YT Music (local downloads even), but now it's clearly going to happen if I'm connected, period. I started using the AA feature because of the larger (than phone) screen for navigating, but now it's a roulette game of what error / state will it decide to be in for this moment. Sometimes it's rare and behaves, other times I'll have it disconnect / crash DOZENS of times on a single <= 1hr trip. The USB port IS loose enough that the cable end will wiggle, but me wiggling it doesn't trigger the problem, yet I often have to completely remove and reinsert it to get it to come back. I've even had the head unit restart itself this month.
The question here is, what should I focus on? If it were just the port (extension?), then why would the head unit restart? If it were loose port, then why do I lose connection on smooth roads more than some WAY bumpier ones? If I need a new head unit, then that's fine, but if I'm going That route, then I'd rather field some upgrade suggestions. Namely, something that handles the sun better (overpowers the screen some days) and perhaps has other options like me plugging a USB/SD card with all my music that it can playback While also using AA for nav. For now, I'm just switching between YT Music and Pandora (former has all my uploaded music). I think I'm rambling at this point, but hopefully the points got through.
I'm attaching what pics I took when I got it that I think are relevant. I had to open the dash to install my magnetic phone mount, so that's why I have those shots. Also, I saved this link to the MFG page apparently.
https://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/excelon/dmx706s/
I apparently found this a while back as an option for upgrading:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4WZTQLT
Now, it's possible that I'm looking at a 3rd party part, but there's a USB-A port in the left side of the front console cubby (with other plugs) that I learned was used for physical connection for AA / CP. Even with the cable remaining connected on that end, I feel like the port must be loose because I'm disconnecting / erroring out way too much / often. Some days I'm fine for most / all of the day (lots of driving), but then I'll get days like today where the bloody thing will disconnect over a dozen times in an hour. The cable Does feel loose when inserting, so that's my best guess.
I'm guessing this simply has a standard USB cable going to the back of the 3rd party (pretty sure) head unit, so that part should be pretty simple to do. I'm just not 100% certain on needing a specific type of plug for the car so that it fits. It'd be Cool if I could convert it to USB-C, but that might not be the best idea, compatibility wise.
It's getting to the point that the buttons just don't want to respond correctly. I can resume just fine still, but going up/down is Very inconsistent and it still does the "I'll just randomly toggle something Else on this control pad when you hit a button" thing.
Is this a rather simple DIY swap or is it too close to the SRS Airbag system to risk?
Vid is from Day 1 in hosp tank. She's swimming better now, but still doing controlled sinking.
She's on day 5 of salt baths after observing her in the community tank a couple days. I'd done the WC on 5/3 and Ferts + KH/GH+ (2~4 hours apart). I have to dose the latter over 2 hours because of the way it works vs the desired dosage. I do my best to make sure that nobody is swimming where I pour it in (noting that I pour incrementally in different areas of the front to spread out the dose into the water). I have to watch the bettas (the male will do it too in his tank) because they want to see what's going into the water.
What I think has happened is that she must have swam through it without me realizing it and got a strong dose of it directly in her face. I say that because when I can get a look at her, her face does have what seems to me like irritation on the face. I noticed that she was hopping between her many resting spots (filter tops, floating log, etc) around the tank, but generally not moving and not wanting to eat.
She's been in the hospital tank for 4 days now and IS swimming better, but mostly resting between baths. Sometimes at the top, sometimes at the bottom. She wasn't a fan on the sun coming in the window across the room, so I also started putting the towel around the tank walls so that she's not getting stressed that way. I've tried giving food, but she's not responding to it or the food spoon yet, so I'll have to mind that. That would hint at her not having eaten somewhere between 5-8 days at this point, but Does seem to be getting a little better.
I do have Maracyn 1/2 onhand, but wasn't sure if those were appropriate for what I'm seeing. My interpretation of the issue is a combination of chemical burn (swimming through chems) and swim bladder (her sinking). She's not pineconing, so that's good at least.
Based on my logs, she's been hanging out at the various (intentionally stationed!) resting spots in the tank. Ran the numbers and the only thing up is Nitrates (20-40 currently) again. I'll probably do a 50% tomorrow, but may need to pull her out in the meantime as she's not keen on swimming right now. She's not having breathing issues and the sequence of events suggests that perhaps she decided to swim through the ferts + kh/gh+ mixture I dosed on 5/3. The nitrates have been 10-20 / 20-40 since I trimmed the plants and it was suggested to modify my fert dosing (halved the Std Flourish), but that didn't seem to change anything, numerically. I did add some Kubotai a few days earlier, but remembered to dose Prime this time. Dosed it again every other day I 'think' since. Nobody else is having any visible issues / behavior changes, so hopefully she's just needing to rest. Kinda thinking she skipped the Saturday daphnia (no food on Sunday) I put in the tank and may just need to poop. >.<
So I'm basically assuming at this point that the original 3 Nerites I got were all male, because I've never had this behavior in the tank until I added the spotted one. Mr. Zebra has been full on bunny rabbit with her daily now it seems. >.<
Everyone historically thinks Neons when they think about nano-sized colors of fish, but I'm wondering what the Raz options are as they are supposed to be less nippy. I currently have a set each of Emerald Dwarf Rasbora (bluish / greyish) and (green) Kubotai Rasbora. What else is there (of different color than the above) in the 0.5" ~1.0" size range for Raz?
I didn't manage a video at the time, but these two crazies are apparently different genders based on what I saw Before this shot. The older zebra on the right was doing "the snail pivot" on the back of the newer one on the left (Orange?) before racing away. I of course can't find my Olive anywhere in the tank right now, but there are intentional voids in the back of the tank for things to hide. I normally would find that one (him?) on the ceiling of a ceramic log in the corner. I think he figured out it's the same color as his shell and used it for camo for the longest time until I caught him finally.
[Cross-Post]
Doing a rethink on the 15 gal tank that I'm looking to setup and decided to revert to having Mr. Betta here back as the Primary inhabitant. I already have a couple variants of shrimp and a couple micro nerites in another tank (he's in the old, starter tank) that were slated to be put with him originally, but I changed the destination tank size to 15 gal. I'm looking to add another color of Neos and thinking about some Micro Crabs as well.
I'd like to get some feedback on group sizes for the most part as I keep seeing conflicting reports on the Oto for example. I'm trying not to duplicate species across tanks (or at least not the same colors), so I'm considering the Oto vs Cory for example.
Here's what I've revised the inhabitants list as:
Hoping to actually get this posted / help on because its been sitting in MOD limbo over on /DIY forever w/ out any response.
And of course I can't upload the image to this forum. Argh: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FG876YWN
So this will mostly be a "help me design / shop for components" piece.
Basically, I have this piece of furniture that already has a ~200lb aquarium on the top shelf and I'm looking to put a slightly smaller one on the middle shelf (~150lb). I'm not concerned about the weight as the MFG rates each shelf at 330lbs. My primary concern is going to be weight distribution, tolerances, and of course safety (tipping). Needless to say, anything that will sit above the shelf will need to be water resistant / rust proof.
The primary reason / need for the project is that the opening is 15-1/16" H and the tank (15 gal) is going to hit around 12-3/4" H, so you can see where I might have trouble gaining access. I've looked at alternative tanks and the Only thing that fits is a 5.5 gal as anything else immediately jumps to the aforementioned height. The tank itself will likely need to be partially offset as there is an electrical panel on the right side that needs 2" - 3" of clearance and the light for the tank will have cables running on that same side, so an additional 1" will be needed, almost certainly necessitating the tank being left aligned to the shelf. It is important to note that an aquarium with a frame only requires support on the bottom edges, not the full bottom as the frame itself lifts the glass off the surface.
I've looked at many concepts (lazy susans, etc) and my primary concern with them all is the fact that the weight would be More concentrated than I feel would be safe as I'm dealing with manufactured 'wood' and steel (?) that's not the thickest in the world. What might not be apparent in the image is that there is an airgap just below the shelf as it is mounted onto the metal crossbeam, so I'll have room there to mount / route something to it for structural support. I'm not certain if drilling through the metal is a good idea or not, but it might be necessary depending on what type of reinforcement is utilized. I may consider draining the tank partially (up to 50%) before sliding it out to help reduce the risk of tipping as the safety of the whole setup is imperative. Read: I'd like NOT to have a ~200lb tank decide to crown me at random.
My current concept now is to use heavy duty, ball bearing-based slide tracks that run under the L/R sides (or preferably the whole bottom) of the tank so that I can gently / carefully / controllably slide the tank 6"~10" forward. I'd Like to have a locking mechanism once it's slid out so that it doesn't move and possibly enabling me to place something under it for support during maintenance. Think of it like adding a heavy-duty cabinet drawer without the sides. This iteration of the concept feels like it would require side mounts (rails?) that drill into either the existing shelf (not ideal?) or with a piece of material in between (acting like a drawer bottom). Friction would be an issue if a secondary piece of material is used.
Additionally, I'm thinking that it may be prudent to further reinforce the shelf using the gap underneath, while keeping in mind that there are cloth drawers that will still need to move freely. All while trying to keep the total weight under ~200lbs as I'm not trying to come even close to the rated weight the shelves can support. Especially since the top shelf already has a ~1/16" sag (stable since install / filling).
That's a lot of words, but unfortunately I'm not the best at knowing what things are called (in the hardware world) when it comes to looking for things. So this is why I'm here.