u/RecoveredSack

Hey guys, a quick question for you all. During dry fire practice I make sure to practice my reloads a ton, because I’ve noticed that’s an area I needed work on after a couple of matches. My main issue is my grip being shit after the reload.

I run a Glock 47 with an OEM extended mag release. Essentially to hit the mag release I have to move the gun in my hand, which I think is pretty common. However no matter what I try my grip will never be as good after a reload as it is when I draw from a holster. Sometimes after a reload I can feel the gun moving around in my hand while shooting, which never happens with my default grip.

I’ve tried probably thousands of reps to train this out of me, and it has improved, however I still have an unsatisfactory grip after most of my reloads.

Do you guys have any tricks to get your firing hand back in the proper position after a reload? Or should I just get used to having a different grip position after my reloads? Master two different grips instead of one?

Thanks in advance!!

Edit: I suppose I also could hit the mag release with my weak hand, or use both hands to reposition the gun. But I feel those aren’t the best way to handle this

Recently a buddy told me about the atrius G-lever, and the idea of it alone sold me so hard on wanting a permanent FRT in my rifle that doesn’t affect the quality of my current trigger in semi. I currently have an SSA-E in my BCM mk2 upper with Aero m4e1 lower. Use BCM’s standard BCG as well, A5 buffer system and have EVERY A5 buffer weight already.

I quickly found out that atrius isn’t the best brand, mainly because of their level being prone to breakage. Since they are kind of expensive i wanted to go with the best, seems like the ARC FRT is that?

My only concerns now are that I have to cut the trigger, which I initially wanted to try to avoid but now I’ve come to accept it and actually am looking forward to the project. Other than that, I’m not sure if the FRT is compatible with my lower & upper receiver or if I will have to cut some material off of those as well. If anyone has any experience using the ARC FRT in a similar setup I’d would LOVE to hear how it worked for you.

Other than that, I’m trying to decide between the V1 and V2 models, is the only difference between them that the V2 model is ambi? Really I don’t need ambi, it would be cool but not sure if it justifies the price difference as I’m a righty.

Since I couldn’t find an existing post for my setup I figured I’d make my own, so hopefully this can help others in the future! Thanks in advance for any help!!

So I just cleaned my flow 556k for the first time in my new Ultrasonic cleaner, it was more of a test run as it’s still a new can and only has about 400 rounds through it. Yet I still wanted to see how it would do, additionally I had some melted plastic from dump barrels I wanted to hopefully get off. I used extreme simple green diluted with water at about a 1:16 ratio, and a 6L ultrasonic from harbor freight.

Before doing this I called Huxwrx to ask for their recommendation on how to clean it. They said to be sure to use compressed air afterwards to make sure it dries on all sides, because if water or residue got trapped on one side it could cause a POI shift. They also said to weigh the can before and after to gauge how much carbon was removed.

The results were okay, but I clearly made some mistakes. The finish was a bit off on one side, initially I thought it was just from the process itself until I remembered I did spill some undiluted simple green on the can when pouring it into the bag. I’m not too worried about the finish anyways, my main concern is that no matter how long I used compressed air the can just wouldn’t get dry. I did rinse off the cleaning solution with water for a minute before trying to dry it. After about 10 minutes with the compressed air can I tried a hairdryer to introduce some heat, that helped some but still too wet.

Another reason I know it was too wet, is the weight was actually higher than it was before cleaning. It seemed nothing I did would get it dry enough by one gram, so I had to result to letting it air dry overnight. This morning I could see it was about 2 grams lighter than it was before cleaning, so it must have dried some. It did look much drier but still had some shiny wet look on the outside of the interior.

My question is how dry do I actually need to get it so that it won’t cause a POI shift? Ideally I would think I should be able to throw the can back on and not have to rezero? I learned a lesson as far as the finish goes, I’ll make sure it’s diluted before throwing in the can, but I’m still left wondering if I’m going to have to air dry for a while after every cleaning session.

I’m going to be buying my first ever ultrasonic cleaner soon if not in the next few hours, I’ve had my eye on one from harbor freight for awhile, I believe it was their 6L one made by Central Machinery. Only getting it now because I just got my first suppressor and want to keep it clean to get more use out of it.

My intent is it mostly use it for the suppressor, while also throwing in some various other parts like AR internals, maybe my radian ramjet from time to time. I’ve read that using the wrong solvent can ruin the finish on different parts, so I’m trying to find what would work best for me.

I have an FDE huxwrx flow 556k, and the ramjet is their standard black model. I’m not sure what kind of coating either uses.

I’m open to any suggestions when it comes to the solvent or the ultrasonic cleaner itself. I believe the 6L would be big enough for sure, it’s been a bit since I’ve seen it in person though.