r/gunsmithing

Why don't any modern rifles have stocks that extend to the end of the barrel anymore?

Hi all,

I have one of the above rifles (photo from Google but the same rifle)

It obviously needs a full service - the spring feels strong when cocking and loud enough when firing but the BBs just roll out of the end of the barrel.

I’m assuming that it will have a cloth/leather seal that will need replacing but if I am going to take it apart (assuming this isn’t too difficult to do at home), I would like to know what else I should be replacing and where to get any spares from.

I would obviously need all of the seals, I’d like the strongest spring that it will handle but am well aware that it is just a gallery rifle and ? Anything else that should be replaced/serviced.

Does anyone know where I can get spare parts for this from as I’m struggling to find them even from Anschutz themselves?

Or/And could anyone recommend someone who knows these rifles and could service it for me please?
(I’m in Tamworth, B78 if that Helps).

Thanks in advance,

Chris

First things first, I do plan on taking this to a gunsmith if I end up purchasing it.

I’m looking at what I believe to be a Belgian copy of a French MLE 1842. My main concern is with the brazing around the nipple area. Would this type of repair guarantee the gun is unshootable? Seller is asking a couple hundred bucks.

Kinda stumped with this one. Had this gun sent back twice already trying to address this, but their gunsmiths keep ignoring the screw holes. Is there any way I can get at these rusty threads without having to send it back a third time? I’m getting pretty close to just selling the damn thing.

bf’s rossi 38 special and his dad’s smith and wesson 32 long colt.

the 32 cylinder pops out easily with a lil shake and spins for a long time on its own.
the 38 special needs a hard shake or assistance of a finger and barely spins for half the time.

im just wondering what part of the revolver typically controls the comfort surrounding this mechanic. as far as i could tell, it could be the nub grinding against the frame, the spring holding the nub in that allows u to pull out the cylinder (pushing the rossi nub takes more force), maybe needing to oil the rod that u push to eject casings (no clue how to reach that internal section), or something else entirely.

I need to remove this sight on a Tanfoglio 22 cal conversion-kit. But I cant find any information on how to remove it. Seems like I’m not supose to drive it sideways due to the oval form.

MAC 5K MP5 Clone, just took it apart and noticed this. Is this kind of stuff expected with Turkish clones? Or is this a serious enough defect that I should return it?

First, shout out to u/aero-precision for the help getting my Solus chassis issue straightened out. Second, I know, I need to paint the room just havent gotten around to it despite having the paint lol.

Now, for the bolt gun. I'll start off by saying I should have bought a complete action, the Weatherby 307 Builders to be exact, as that would have run me $600 flat but figured I could do it for cheaper if I pieced it together. I was wrong.

I ordered a Remington 700 stripped barreled action from Brownells for about $264 and an Outlier 24in 6.5CM barrel for about $290. I knew i wasnt keeping the remington barrel because i wanted a 6.5CM. I get the barreled action from my FFL and get home to take the barrel off. To my surprise, it is incredibly difficult to get off but i manage with some minor scuffingnto the barrel's bluing. The first three pictures show what I saw upon removing the barrel. The TL:DR is Brownells offered to take it back but I opted to keep it due to the barrel bluing being messed up.

I cleaned up the action and removed the rust best I could, which are the next three pictures. Bownells said the action could be cleaned up and still usable. I then blued the threads (next two pictures) because the thought of the rust had me freaking out.

Once all that was taken care of, my Outlier barrel came in. I ordered a Solus Competition 17in chassis ($739), Timney trigger ($130), MDT 0.315" recoil lug ($40), and a Nightforce 20moa rail ($59) from Midway. I also bought a Christensen Arms complete bolt assembly ($350) off Ebay.

I finally had everything I needed to get going and then I had an absolute nightmare with the shimming for the Solus but made it happen. I happen to have thicker shims I bought so I used a total of 4, 2 on the front and 2 on the rear, for the action screws. The optic, Athlon Argos BTR Gen 3 ($300), i had on a different bolt gun i am not using so I used that to "compete" the gun. I used a Truglo bipod ($55) to finish it off and the last picture is the result. I have a Trybe muzzle brake ($53) on the way from OP to top it off.

I couldn't get the ejector out of my CA bolt assembly but I have a Remington 308 rig so I grabbed the bot out of there and started the headspelacing with that. The CA bolt assemblies drop into the Remington actions and didnt require any fitting. I had a mother of a time getting the headspace right as it was closing on the no go gauge i had so i did a field gulauge and it checked out with that.

So for a grand total of $2280, a metric crap ton of sweat, tears, and worry, my "budget" build is complete.

The Solus chassis is REALLY nice and you get a good chassis with no hidden costs (i.e. buttstocks, grips, etc.) like you do with other chasses.

I’ve had this Mark V in 280 Ai for some time now, and I really wanted to put it in a wood stock. Rather than shell out the $400-$800, I decided to give painting it the old college try. Used a white primer with ranger alcohol inks for the stain and “grain”. It’s a beater that has been carried a ton so I’m happy with the new look even though it has its flaws.

Edit: The stock is polymer and came from factory black with gray sponge.

I found this receiver to a shotgun in a very damp basement of my grandfather's house with a rotted stock and no barrel

I am somewhat knowledgeable on blueing what would be the best course of action to restore it without spending 200 at a gun smith on what would be a 100 dollar shotgun complete

Do I need to take it apart to soak in rust remover and hot blue as is

I wouldn't mind buying supplies as I could use on other guns in my collection just never had something this bad

It's functional and smooth just quite a bit more than surface rust

Does anybody know of a gunsmith that would be willing to do an ASP conversion if provided a S&W 39? I’ve emailed a couple popular ones and got told “we don’t really do that”. Help would be much appreciated!

Cleaning up an M95 Styer barrel. Is it possible to get this rust off? First time project I’ve been hitting it with oil and 0000 steel for a while. Any tips would be greatly appreciated thanks!

[supprimé]

Bubba’d and rechambered in 30-06. I want to replace furniture to make it look original. Do you guys think the original furniture would fit?

Also sorry about the bad photo lol. I transferred it to my local store to measure barrel to see if it’s original.

Just got a threaded barrel for my P-01. When installed the guide rod doesn’t fit properly and protrudes out the front. It is obviously flexed in the picture.

Is this what they mean by some fitment may be required? What do I need to do or am I looking at a trip to the gunsmith?

Kimber 2k11 with around 1500 rounds through and noticed this chunk missing out of the lugs on the slide. I dont see any noticeable damage on the barrels lugs. Is this something i should be concerned about?