

Do I need to get this rethreaded?
first time removing a P&W muzzle device. came off but not smoothly. is this repairable by myself or do I have to send it off?


first time removing a P&W muzzle device. came off but not smoothly. is this repairable by myself or do I have to send it off?
I'm not sure why the previous owner did this.
I've never blues a gun before, I've looked at cold bluing products and rust bluing steps and hot bluing and I simply can't decide which is really the most doable option for someone whose never done it before, or which one is even appropriate given those seem to have different uses in mind
Any pointers or recommendations?
Looking to convert my S&W 39-2 in a Hushpuppy MK 22 Mod 0 clone. I need the slide milled out to accept the rear sight hood and suppressor height front sight added. I have more pictures for reference. Is this a job for a gunsmith or machine shop?
Picked up a cheap project mauser this weekend. It has a mystery sporter barrel on it I may want to recover. It has no markings. Grooves calibered .303” diam but crown is rough so I think it’s actually .308”. However, .308, although it chambers, is tight and pushes the bullet into the casing when I try to chamber. Any suggestions on what this could be? I will cast it at some point but it’s not an option for me right now
Hey folks, im just a guy who is working on his first "gunsmithing" project, all i am doing is mounting a scope mount onto a no1 mk3 enfield (blasphemy i know, but i have my reasons).
I bought a scope mounting kit from addley precision, came with a #29 drill bit, 8-32 tap, and everything i needed to get it done. Drilled the first hole immaculately with no issues, but once i attempted the second hole it just wouldn't bite into the metal, and it seems as though i have work-hardened the steel in the spot i tried to drill.
Currently, the soloution i am considering is getting a 1/8 multi-material carbide tipped drill bit, and putting it in my drill press to bore a pilot hole, then follow up with a fresh #29 bit to widen out to the proper diameter for tapping.
Any helpful tips, alternatives soloutions, words of encouragement, and/or words of admonishment are all welcome and much appreciated!
Looking to have the chambers of my 1908 LC Smith lengthened from 2 5/8 to 2 3/4.
Chambers are shiny, bore has haze and slight pitting past forcing cone. Heavyweight barrels so plenty of material.
My options are : leave as is and shoot only handloads or 2.5 inch factory loads
- Get a local gunsmith to lengthen chambers for a few hundred $ - getting close to or exceeding what I bought the gun for
- Order a long forcing cone chamber reamer and do it at home myself for much cheaper, have the tool and skills for future.
Has anyone lengthened a chamber themselves? I am pretty handy, no expert ofc however, but take the time to do work right. Just looking to see what people recommend or advice.
Cheers
Got this old h&r 676 tore all apart for proper cleaning as its been tuck away in a cabinet for idk how long but the cylinder pin is what seems like rusted to the cylinder as its not budging. Ima let it soak in kroil tonight an give it a go tmw but an advice? Was thinking maybe put the pin in a vise best i can an using a rubber mallet to tap the barrel to see if it realeses.
I’m working on a CZ 75 pre-B and am having trouble with magazine fit. The magazines do not drop free and require considerable effort to extract. My goal is to get any CZ-compatible magazine to function properly, but Mec-Gar magazines are the most problematic.
So far, I have:
These changes have made the magazines easier to remove, but they still do not drop free. I’ve attached photos showing the areas I worked on.
Recently acquired a used Baikal MP153 12GA, discovered during cleaning the piston/action sleeve has a crack? Anybody have a lead on a replacement as parts domestically are like hens teeth or a CNC shop who could handle this? Replacement part doesn’t need to be chromed clearly, or is it safe’ish to run? Concerned about PSI contained and how close my hand would be to it, any help appreciated. Thanks
EPC-9 Upper with 10.5" Faxon 10mm barrel and KVP 10mm BCG, All fit perfectly into the upper for the EPC-9, on an AR45 lower
I wanted LRBHO that's why I used the EPC-9. I also had an aero hanguard. I can't find any information or threads of anyone building a 10mm specifically using the EPC-9 Upper with LRBHO. I mean the BCG sits flush, the trigger resets, the BCG doesn't hang up anywhere when charging, the LRBHO lever sits exactly on the 10mm mag follower where it would on the 9mm and the function works, snap caps feed just fine. Just wondering for anyone that knows more than I do, don't wanna send shrapnel into my firearms idk I'm just thinking of worst case scenarios. And according to AI none of this should work but idk how much to trust Google AI, to which none of the answers it gave me hinted at dangerous pressures, if anything I'd probably have ejection issues but that is only my best guess. I guess the only way to find out is to shoot it which I haven't done yet. Also I don't have sights or muzzle yet as you can see
Hi everyone,
I’ve recently bought a Miroku 7000 Sp 3 as a second gun and I’m wondering if anyone with experience in gunsmithing can tell me what the dark/black spots in the engraved areas are? I’d like to remove the
but I don’t want to damage the original engraving or finish.
Is this something that could be done at home, or is it definitely a job for an engraver/gunsmith? If so what do I need to do it myself?
Was shooting yesterday as normal and broke the firing pin of my Century Arms Golani. Since it's the rebounding firing pin I can't find any that are in stock any where, but I can find the free floating version everywhere. They should be fairly interchangeable since my bolt has plenty of clearance, right?
I was gifted this smith and wesson model 10-8 at the beginning of the year the cylinder rotates just fine but wont swing out short of a wack from a rubber screwdriver handle does anyone know what might be causing this and possible fixes ?
Factory camo AUG, the Factory paint job has become loose on any high contact area and began to chip. Anyway to fix it? Heat gun or something to make it shrink back to the surface?
The threads are extremely damaged where the nipples won’t thread in and will just fall out. Turned this custom nipples with a locking screw. Need to take it out and fully test it out.
I just got this sight kit for my henry rifle, the henry x in 357 magnum, and after installing the sight, as you can see in 5he photo, with light coming from under the front sight, there is a gap between the front sight and barrel. Given the edges are making contact with the barrel, it would seem to indicate the sight was made for a more narrow barrel then the one I have. I'm not sure if this will cause problems, and I wanted to see what people had to say. I wanted to check since I could always sand the sight flush to the barrel, but I didn't want to do that till I confirm this is actually a problem, since that risks ruining the sight
BrassFacts just did an interesting review on PSA’s ICAR receiver set with 6 ARC. He ran 800 rounds total, mostly of the Frontier load (Hornady’s off brand 105gr in FMJ). What’s weird is that he started out having no issues and then gradually had more and more jams until he had to cycle each round by hand. He was running a blue Sprinco and H2 buffer. I saw one commenter state that the problem is his Rexus bolt, which starts out strong and then loses reliability once it gets dirty. Thoughts?
The other big issue to come out of this video (and the video from Hop, which was only published internally for his subscribers) is the compatibility of anti-rotation tab handguards with ICAR receivers. If anyone knows any rails with anti-rotation tabs that work, please respond with that info.
I've used evaporust for many projects over the years without issue and recently got a nickel plated Belgian gun with a few small spots of rust, so after looking up any potential problems with using it on nickle plating From multiple sources and the horses mouth itself, and finding no examples of any issues decided to put the pieces in overnight so I can then polish and re-plate the rusted spots, now it's looking like I will have to polish and re-plate the whole thing, it seems weird that I couldn't find any other examples of this anywhere since it says specifically that this is the kind of thing evaporust claims to be for and it's not exactly a new untested product, anyone else encounter something like this? Did the algorithm just only show positive experience and bury bad ones?