Insulating Concrete Walls

I asked this elsewhere before, but I'm still confused, since I didn't get many replies. I live in the northern US, and I'm very confused how to insulate the concrete walls for our basement. The framing is already up and it's a 40 year old project my father did, but I'm having to redo the insulation/drywall due to mold issues(from flooding/broken pipes). I see suggestions of putting foam behind the framing(there is about an inch or 3/4 inch gap behind the frame and concrete) and foaming it around the corners of the bays. However, behind the framing between the concrete wall and framing there is a drainage channel that goes out to our sump pump. Meaning it's not really possible to seal it all around on the bottom.

Previously, there was faced R-11 fiberglass (facing towards the living space) in this bay solely by my father. The wall seemed dry and there didn't seem to be any evidence of mineral buildup(I guess if water was trapped?) on the wall. The back of the fiberglass seemed clean, but the front facing/drywall was damaged. We have had sump failure, pipe breaks, amongst other things like water heater leakage over the years that caused mold in many areas, so I'm trying to go back and redo a lot of it. My father made the mistake of using faced fiberglass batts in the interior basement wall framings facing the drywall, and I just discovered that yesterday, mold city hiding behind the batts lol.

I just recently redid it and added faced R-15 fiberglass to this (concrete wall) area. Is there really any other way I could've done it given the drainage trench going to our sump pump?

My father recently died, and I unfortunately can't ask him much about it, but he wouldn't have remembered much anyway since it's been so long. No one even remembered the drainage channel cut out along the edge of the basement(paid for as part of the sump install).

Edit: Photos in replies.

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u/SaddenedBKSticks — 10 hours ago

Maytag Commercial Washer Acting Randomly

Our Maytag Commercial washer MVWP575 has been operating terribly today, I noticed it a week ago(with #1).

It either does this, or a variety of the below -

  1. When reaching the final spin, it never actually really spins. It just runs/hums slowly, I guess maybe it's spinning, just not very fast. Basically everything is still wet, and the tub still has small puddles of water. Makes a weird groaning noise.
  2. When filling on a fresh load, instead of doing the little tub rotation to provide water coverage, it instead literally tries to do a full speed spin with the water filling in it. Causes it to go crazy and bang the sides. Have to rush to stop it. Lid not locked while it's going nuts. No lid lock indicator for the spin, just fill light.
  3. When filling, instead of the above, it will just make a couple small bangs noises and do nothing at the first rotation attempt, then doesn't attempt to do another the entire fill.
  4. Variety of flashing red/solid red lid locked(lid is always locked during this).
  5. Once today it attempted to fill when drain and spin cycle selected. I think it tried to spin then did this. Opened lid after a while and it just drained and shut off.
  6. I feel like it skips the rinse spin.
  7. When on normal mode, when doing the spray rinses, there is a very long hesitation after the first rinse.
  8. When using drain + spin, I can get it to go to the 2nd to last spin speed at the start, then it really slows down. I can sometimes pause and start it, and it can sometimes go faster again, and later the final speed.

It actually started working properly for the most part(minus missing some steps) for maybe an hour, then it got back to acting poorly again.

What is wrong with it?

I'm so sick of this machine, it's basically a lemon. It always acted a little strange for a long time, and we've only had it for a few years, but never this bad. I regret following some of the hype for this machine in the past. It costed double a regular Whirlpool, and barely lasted long at all.

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u/SaddenedBKSticks — 1 month ago

Executive Support

I was trying to reach some of the previous executive support team members I spoke to within the past year and a half, but when dialing both numbers, it just rings, then goes to a busy signal. It used to let you leave a message. I was trying to reach them in regards to a few things, and talk to a single person. I wasn't sure if they left the company, but since it was two, I figured maybe the numbers were changed or something. Is there anyway to be put back in contact with either one? I sent an email to one of them, but I'm not sure if they would have received it. The last person I spoke to said to call them back eventually if I ever needed help.

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u/SaddenedBKSticks — 2 months ago

Insulating Basement With Drains

So, I have some confusion in regards to how to insulate the basement walls. Having to redo it and the drywall after some broken pipes, and other water damage, and it was completed in the past by someone else. Half the wall is above ground with wood, then below is concrete. There is 2x4 framing about 1 inch infront of the concrete. I had some idea, but now I'm a little confused, because I discovered there's a small drainage trench behind the 2x4 framing a few inches deep along edge of the wall.

On the top half, there is the exterior 2x6 bay, then there's a sort of maybe 4 inch or so ledge for the concrete wall. Then the 1 inch gap between that and the 2x4 bay. Bottom half just the 1 inch gap and 2x4 bay.

From what I can tell, originally when built it was just a single faced fiberglass R-11 on the top half and that was it. Then there appears to be another faced R-11 added on that ledge part, then a third faced R-11 that filled the 2x4 framing(so, on the top half, 3 layers of faced R-11 were stacked, and the bottom layer as a result had one-the third layer). I'm not sure if the middle layer was there originally or not. I believe the multiple facing is bad, I'm in the process of removing it all as much as I can.

But where do I go from here?

Do I put R-23 wool in the top half 2x6, then R-15 wool in the gap for that ledge(where the previous R-11 2nd layer was), and finally have a foam(half inch to an inch?) board on the bottom half concrete wall cut to fit the bottom of the 2x4 bay, then place a final faced fiberglass R-15 from top to bottom over the R-15 on the top and foam board on the bottom? I'm not sure how to seal up the foam board though, with the discovery of the drainage gap along that edge now. Do I seal the bay all around but leave the bottom open? I'm not sure if one of the layers can be eliminated in a way that makes sense - I guess the top half would have diminishing returns with that much.

Any ideas?

For reference, it's a climate that gets cold(Northeast US). Basement is cool in summer, cold in winter.

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u/SaddenedBKSticks — 2 months ago

High Bill + Internet Essentials Question

  1. I reached out a few months ago for billing help, but I wasn't really offered anything lower. Our $20 loyalty discount is ending, and times are difficult right now, so I'm a bit worried. Is there no way to extend that discount, or get a better offer? Side question: Is it even possible to retain my two modem setup(for voice/internet) if I change my plan? It used to be possible to keep it through the plan builder, until recently, now it just overrides it. It would be very bad to only have one modem(placement wise). I was considering Now TV, but my family is old/disabled and rely on the TV service, and some parts of it/the app are a bit too difficult for them to use.
  2. Is there really no way to make exceptions for the internet essentials 90 days? I believe we qualify currently, but it's really difficult to wait that long, and we have xfinity voice/TV too, so it's difficult to move all services around for that long(and porting numbers, etc.), plus we kind of need help now. I tried to apply during the ACP period when the eligibility terms were lesser/waived, and I did apply using the form online at the time, but nothing ever happened. I asked support through chat at the time, and I can't really remember what they said, but I didn't really get help, so I gave up. I remember it submitted an order way back then, while waiting for approval, and I never got an email or anything. But that's so long ago now.
  3. Mini side question - When the xfinity rewards became 'XFINITY Membership', the tiers now all say "WiFi hotspot access" except for Diamond which says "WiFi hotspot access with internet" under the benefits. Does this mean that all tiers, except for Diamond, include hotspot access even if you don't have internet? or is it just a typo?

There really aren't any good deals for existing customers anymore. Certain services(like voice) got priced out to oblivion over the years. It used to be only a $10 add, now it's $40(between the forced international calling, loss of multi product discounts, etc.). The new TV plans now include the first box, making it not possible to save there if you want to. The internet plans now include the modem by default, so you can't even save money by owning anymore either. Our bundle was only $120 all in when we first started a few years ago, and now it's $240(soon to be $260). Even most offers now aren't much lower than that, due to the poor pricing structure and loss of discounts across the board. The only people that really seem to benefit now are internet only new customers.

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u/SaddenedBKSticks — 3 months ago
▲ 6 r/Decks

Our deck is almost 40 years old. However, I'm seeing things that concern me. I don't think that board is supposed to be split in the first photo? The board in the 1st and 2nd photo(near the bottom is seemingly crooked - I believe that's called the ledger based on what I checked?). The nails are pulling out, and on closer inspection in photo 2, at least one is out. The first photo is just the side view next to the house, the 2nd photo is underneath next to the house, and the third is on the deck next to the house. Ignore the thin white color, I was supposed to solid stain it, then gave up, and may scrap that idea, I wasn't sure how to proceed. That board isn't sitting flush against the back board(I guess it's supposed to?), it's pushed forward, as seen in the other photos. It's also warped a little, the middle is pushed out a little more than the sides, not by a lot, but a little.

The decking boards in the third photo are a little rough in shape, those two in particular by the house, the rest aren't like that. I guess from an old outdoor rug that was there.

On the more farthest back board against the house, there is some wood rot near the bottom, perhaps from stuff getting stuck in between the gap of the two pieces of wood. I removed a lot of it(dirt, leaves, etc.).

The deck isn't really used, and it's close to the ground. It's also a smaller deck in size. I'm just wondering if there's really any saving this, or what damage may have been done. Is this a complete tear-down, and to what extent?

The deck doesn't move if you're on it.

u/SaddenedBKSticks — 4 months ago