For context, my attic is more like 2000 sq ft, let’s be generous and say 2,500 sq ft, and the amount of plywood decking is over like 1/5 this area maybe? What am I missing here? For the record I did inquire about r50.
1964/5 house build. Just moved in and doing some remodeling work. Until now I’ve always thought my wall insulation was a little suspect but had no easy way to confirm. This past weekend I pulled down some Sheetrock and this is what I found. I did some googling and cant find much info other than this looks hopelessly under whelming for a 2x4 wall.
What options have I got? The house has brick on the outside so can’t easily rip it off to do something, so everything needs to happen from the inside. Besides ripping all the interior sheetrock off and putting in R19 or rockwool, what other options do I have?
I thought about cutting a hole in each stud bay and blowing in insulation but that’s a lot of holes to cut, blow in, and patch again.
What’s your thoughts?
The HOA is replacing the siding and roof by the end of the year and the company they hired is offering blown in fiberglass ranging from $ 1330-1600 per attic. My attic is R19 and I assume they will have blown in to R49.
My attic is 690 sq ft and I got two quotes from insulation companies , one from ARC for $3700 after rebates, and another one $2500, also after rebates. Both offers air sealing. I really liked ARC as they are super professional but the price is making me have second thought.
what you guys think?
Looking for quick validation - I have a toddler and am slammed at work so I just don't have the energy to chase this down or do it myself. Seem reasonable for a 1600 sq ft, super hot attic? I'd be getting 1-2K back in power company rebates. State is MD.
Do I need to install a vapor barrier over rockwool ? Doing a renovation and not sure about vapor barrier , located in north central Ohio
Recently moved into a new house. 2 floors. 3300 sft. Built in 2000. Average daily usage is 100kwH with avg daily temps well above 100F ( outside)
Lower floor is fine at 76. Upper floor drops from 74 to 80 in 30 mins.
I do have a lot more windows than the avg house but most of them are actually downstairs which makes me believe my attic is acting like a reverse heat sink.
I have two types of insulation in the attic currently based on my limited research and knowledge - there seems to be fiber glass (pink stuff) with blowin in insulation ( grey / brown ) on top of it. It seems pretty uneven, some areas it's thick and some areas it's less.
When I started looking into getting insulation replaced I came across 'air sealing and spray foam' which looked like a nice option but also expensive. But more Internet research led me to lots of posts complaining about it being terrible and trapping moisture and leading to wood rot.
Any advice on what I should dig into further , what factors should inform my decision apart from costs and what should I ask the people who start to come take a look at the attic and give me quotes
So we're putting EPS boards on wall from outside.
I have no experience with that, but the edges are not looking good.
He said he'll connect a small nail and add a small piece of foam to make the corner flush.
Is it something that can be done easily? Will it work?
Hopefully yall dont mind me posting this here. I'm a welder/fabricator and just finished this up for a good friend of mine in the business. Moves a ton of air and going to test it with him on a job tomorrow. Wish me luck!
Do I need to insulate the attic section over my front porch overhang the porch is open with no sofits the porch begins a little after the blue drywall in the photo
Opened up some floorboards in a two floor office type building being remodeled and screwing down all the squeaking boards. Being totally optional, would it be beneficial to blow in cellulose for sound proofing or as interior insulation? I plan on densepacking an adjacent partition wall for noise control. The ceiling is plaster lath with another layer of drywall so the mass is there to deaden speaking noise fairly well...
Been searching for a while, seen a lot of asking how to, and before pictures, but no final results. Prepping to air seal my attic (swapping out recessed lights) but for all my other fixtures I want to foam them up. Trying to avoid putty mats and tenmats (they can be pricey).
Also is there a way to cover this and make it look nice. I’m renting so looking for a renter friendly option
I know I’ll never make my money back on insulation, but I have a 4 ton unit upstairs and a 3 ton unit downstairs. With the 105°f days, the 3 ton unit is struggling and I just want to help it rather than upsizing the unit.
I have an asphalt shingle roof and the attic has no ventilation other than the perimeter soffits. I was thinking in order of effectiveness…
Am I on track here? Would it be better to remove the cellulose and foam the attic floor as well? Thanks in advance for any insight!
Should the insulation be lying flat on the crawl space floor like this (on top of vapor barrier)? Ai tells me no. Need a human opinion too. Located in Mat su valley Alaska for what it’s worth.
I bought a house bought in 1954 and looking to insulate in the attic area; problem is there is no crawlspace and the ceiling is wood paneling so cutting multiple 4in holes to pump cellulose would mean ruining the ceiling (as far as i know) any other way this can be done?
How would you insulate this space when the framing is 8” off the brick/concrete walls? The room is a cold storage room in basement, underneath front porch. The reason the framing is off the walls is because of this concrete ledge (footers?). Next to this room is a finished basement. 100 year old century home.
Ignore the dirt mound. I’m in process of digging that out and pouring a concrete slab to be level with the existing floor. Framing will go up after.
Does it make sense to install 1x3 sleepers on the backside of the framing to hold up insulation, and install foam board or rockwool, between the studs?
First I am hearing of it. Got a quote for a heavier duty foam that doesn't fit the specs of either open cell nor closed cell. Specifically, it becomes a full moisture barrier at 6 inches thick. It's R value for 6 inches is R-27 which is a bit more than standard open cell foam. Is this really a thing? On the quote line item it is listed as "AG800MD", but not clear. I am guessing from google that it is https://superarbor.io/products/huntsman-building-solutions-agribalance%C2%AE-ag-800du-open-cell-spray-foam-insulation-480-lb-drum
I am wanting to use it on the roof of a climate zone 5, so it absolutely must have the moisture barrier that closed cell does.
Hi guys why is all the information so conflicting.
I've been searching through this group and going on YouTube, Google , Chat gpt etc and I'm just reading so much information that's different.
We bought this for a summer house and it was installed yesterday.
So now I'm looking at insulating it but reading so many conflicting answers.
Some say totally fill the 75mm void with 75mm thick PIR insulation and some say buy 50mm PIR and leave a 25mm ventilation gap behind it.
The website listing says it has a breathable vapour barrier between the outside composite cladding and wood.
Can someone tell me for certain which method is best and would the roof be the same way as well.
Thanks.
Just what the heading says. I have a bedroom over a garage in a Cape Cod kind of configuration. Most of the walls have R13 batts, but nothing air sealing them or even holding the batts up in some places. Can I just use 1” foam board to act as a structure to hold up the batts as well as air sealing and increase R value to 18 or so?
If I wanted to pack cellulose into the vaulted ceiling, could I use that same foam board to backstop the bottom of the rafter bays?
This is on the ceiling of my first story. I’ve been told I need to insulate this whole area and thats the best I can do. Also have a mold problem now too. House is 4 years old.