u/Shoddy-Clock-6585

If something catches your eye, feel free to dm me. Will cut a deal on anything as I don't need these parts.

All good if not, they'll go into storage.

Took apart my setup to clean and toss on some new skid plates. Red and blue were the only strong filaments I had, So I figured I'd try this combo out. What do you guys think?

Pretty insane, I made it literally 1 mile away from my final destination in AZ before the 7 refused to go further due to the slave or master cylinder fully dying(I think)

So it did 1,345 miles from WA to San Diego just fine, and then another 354 miles to AZ( literally just 1 mile short of my house)

The problem:

As I got in to San Diego, I noticed the trans was not wanting to engage gears as well, especially 1st. Note whining when clutch is engaged which I now know is the throw out bearing going, which I guess a failing cylinder could cause?

About 2hrs 50min from home, the clutch started to slip in 5th gear. I pulled over and let things cool down, deduced that the clutch fluid was probably overheating as it was 106 outside.

I continued in 4th gear, and had to hold speeds of 40-45mph the rest of the way to avoid slipping. It only got worse but I minimized the slipping as much as possible and don't think the clutch got too beat up.

Fast forward 1 mile before home, the power randomly stops transferring. From a dead stop I cannot get it going at all and it just stalls.

I'm going to assume that one of my cylinders has just completely gone out(which one, I'm not sure)

All in all pretty insane luck to have had the first break down I posted about go so well, and barely avoid catastrophic overheating, and now to conveniently break down 1 mile from the final destination.

P.S. The clutch fluid was always basically black, even when I flushed the system thoroughly, so I knew that the slave/master was probably deteriorating.

Just started day 2 of my road trip. Pulled off to get some food and. Noticed temps were rising. Photo is as high as it got before I was able to shut it off. Is my motor cooked? Temps were only above normal for about 3-5 minutes. It looks like my belt literally blew?? I do see some splashing on the road but don't know where it's from yet.

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What do you guys suspect the point of failure was? I do know my alternator belt was very tight

Planning to drive ~600 miles tomorrow as the first part of a road trip. I only have 900 miles completed on my rebuild but have been varying the rpms every drive, no highway driving and have slowly worked up to hitting 6k.

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Am I okay trying my best to vary Rpms on the highway and chen stay at a consistent RPM at the 1K mile mark?

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Any general advice is appreciated.

Just used a brass brush on this 12a rotor. Starting to look great, and I think it's close to ready for the next rebuild.

I'm sure you guys have seen this. What are your thoughts?

It rubs me the wrong way a bit, because the entire thing is just AI slop.

Someone who might actually be pursuing a genuine rebuild might just inherit this guy's completely junk 13b.

With no photos of housings whatsoever, you know that this thing is absolute buns

I've noticed a green accent on the back Mazda logo, and the passenger side windshield wiper. Is this just something that the previous owner did? Or does it signify something from the factory? 84 GS.

Looking to integrate my own custom headlights setup. Curious to see what other people have done for a simple separate battery system that uses adhesive?

I don't mind soldering/detailed work but don't want to drill into the board and would prefer adhesive.

Also just printed out a fresh PETG skid plate, and PLA bumper guards from printables. (100% infill of course)

Thinking I should probably go PETG for the bumpers as it should prob be very sturdy being a part of the suspension geometry now as well.

Thanks for any thoughts.

Hey everyone, so I've been driving my rebuilt 12a and am now at just over 600 miles.

This whistling noise has started to get a bit worse, and I suspect it is from that auxiliary connection that is supposed to feed back into the manifold.

The connection was zip tied up as it had been deleted, and then fell down and just ripped off of the exhaust... lol

Any confirmation that that's probably where the whistling is coming from?

Under load, there's no sound - only at idle. Which makes me suspect this open hole in my exhaust.

Thanks

Posting because I know the RevUp stigma is real, and modified cars are always tricky to price.

Key details:

- 129k miles, AZ car (no rust)

- No oil burning, no leaks(Yes this is legit)

- 305whp on a 5-map dyno tune (stock, 93, high - octane, eco, anti-theft)

- ISR GT exhaust, OG Tomei test pipes, Motordyne MREV2 intake manifold

- LOJ Conversions 1000whp rated driveshaft

- ESR CR1 wheels

- Upgraded speakers + 10 inch sub behind drivers seat

- Mods are all well-regarded bolt-ons, nothing hacked together. Mechanically sorted.

What would you realistically pay, or what would you list it at? Looking to sell shortly.