u/SleepingAndKissing

digging the reticle options on the Holosun. never seen Omega style circles, and I shot really tight groupings with the no-dot settings at 7-15 yds. Gonna run it more today and get more time with each reticle.

Old sight was Vector Optics SCRD-76. big window and 6 moa dot. just clone of expensive big sights. i love it. Grabbed the Holosun cause I really only want the Romeo3 Pro, but not for full price haha. Been really wanting to try running different kinds of reticles to see how it affects me, but i didn’t like the MRS options on standard Holosun optics like 507Comp.

It’s likely my desire to emulate my experience from competitive gaming and constantly changing up my settings to broaden my familiarity with different reticle options and sensitivities. I really dig the open crosshair style, but the only sight that had that was a Picatinny Sight Mark and some other Vector Optics pistol reflex. im sure its less of a common practice in actual firearms, but i loved how i could practice with so many different configurations and expose myself to uncomfortable situations so that I learned to adapt. I wanna be able to pick up someone elses pistol, not touch the brightness setting or reticle, and shoot just as good as i normally would. even if the reticle is blinding my view of the target in my right eye.

Gonna do occluded sight training today to eliminate the focus I put on seeing how the different reticles line up against the target on paper.

So this issue has been ongoing for me. It didn’t happen with the gun when I first got it. I fed steel case and 147gr early on, and it needed the 10# spring to cycle, but after 500 shots, it was fine with any ammo. Bulk, factory, reman, it took it all without any issue. At some point around the 3700 round mark, it started light striking, first on reman. It happened after I had also gone in and buffed and polished a bunch of internal parts with green compound, starting with the basics like feedramp, slide shelf, and barrel lug points, before going into the frame and taking out the internal pieces to clean. I still don’t know for sure if I caused the problem or if it’s something I don’t know about.
Here’s a list of times I’ve sent the pistol back to get checked by Sig:

1. gun shot high out of the box, irons have to cover target. opened tix and they prepped to send it in, loose rear sight ended up breaking the screw off the day before when i shot 300 rds, noticed it was loose out of the box, didn’t have a tool to reach down enough to tighten it. Sig returned it with it tightened down
2. opened another tix due to loose rear sight, got sent replacement ironsight and screw (suppressor height)

had my Frenzy Flex optic at this point, RMR footprint, i direct mounted and loctited with no plate, it was still running strong and held zero at 3500 rounds. this is where the light strikes began to happen with one batch of bulk reman the day before my first IDPA style competition, and my sight began to lose zero (so i thought, since it seemed to be walking left every time i shot). i also learned to adjust the trigger reset, but idk if that can contribute to this issue or not. i bought blazer brass to use in the event, no issues, but my optic got progressively worse during the comp, and i had to aim off of the target to hit it (off by a foot at 10-15yds). after the comp, i tried to diagnose the issue, thinking it was the optics fault, adjusting the windage dial before i noticed the sight wasnt stable. during that testing, i had several light strikes as well, but none during the competition thankfully. removed sight and saw a sheared screw stuck inside which i was not able to remove, so in it went to Sig for repairs. i mentioned the light strikes and asked them to make sure it wasnt something i missed.
3. got the gun back with the screw removed, and a note that said to shoot blazer 115gr if im having misfires.
i remounted the optic and found no issues with it, and went through the remaining bulk, the same bulk that had my first light strikes. i continued to have light strikes happen, often just addressed by recocking the hammer for another attempt. almost all of them fired on the second hit.

keep in mind im at around 5000 rounds now.
1-2000 were old stockpiled ammo my boyfriend had from years ago, never had any issues.
2-3k was from national cartridge, 115gr bulk reman. no problems.
3-4k was 147gr reman from Ammo Depot - Sportsman Select, saw it on sale and wanted to try 147gr cause of the comp. this is where the light striking began
add 200 box ammo for the competition event
4-5k ammo depot SSelect again, but 115gr this time. testing to see if it was bad batch. same issues, actually maybe worse this time around.

4. i open this issue im having with support and they offer to look at it again. i sent it in around the 4500~ round mark. they replace the firing pin, firing pin spring, barrel, comp, recoil plug (upgraded from plastic to metal), and mainspring. i immediately go out to test it but the light strikes continue with the leftover bulk. i dunno if the factory 8# recoil spring is just dying. the 10# spring didn’t seem to fix the light strikes, but maybe i don’t understand the relation between the recoil spring and possibly result of the firing pin on the chambered round.

bought factory blazer aluminum ammo to see if it would make a difference, and at first, it ran through it without issue. About 300 rounds with no misfires. just when i thought i was in the clear, the last 100 (monarch steel and some blazer alum) had a few of them light strike. at this point i was freakin the fk out, thinking i had fked up the geometry or tolerance of the slide to frame fit, or changed the hammer and firing pin surface engagement (cause of the light strikes).

5. finally i reach out and ask for a new hammer strut in case the problem was in the geometry of the face that hits the back of the firing pin (thinking i couldve accidentally touched it with a grinding stone, idk i was paranoid). i noted how everything was replaced but i just wanted to cover all the bases before resorting to sending it back again.

i got that a few days ago and swapped it out, and went straight to testing ammo. 250 rds monarch 115gr brass vs my bulk 2000 from National Cartridge. I have significantly less light strikes with the box ammo, but it happens once in a while. still got 100-150 left.
ive gone through 400 of my bulk or so, and ive gotten maybe 20 ish light strikes? i dunno, ive been losing track from the whole experience.

im going back to the range to test some more Tuesday, but ive done as many tests i could think of like running the ammo in a different pistol side by side. heck if i could add an image, id show the paper target i put up last saturday. it looks like the work of a crazy person, or just some engineer doing test fires.

im just makin this post cause im hoping perhaps someone here will recognize the problem im dealing with. or some random comment ends up putting a new light on the issue.

im honestly just bewildered by the fact that the gun went thru one case of bulk reman and 2k stored box ammo from years ago with absolutely no abnormal behavior, then ever since the problematic bulk reman ammo was used, it feels like the gun has been tainted and wont return to normal. if it was as simple as never using bulk again, id be annoyed but happy to solve the problem. but since it happens sometimes with box ammo, and other guns can shoot the bulk normally with no hiccups, im losing it.

if i go through all my bulk and maybe some more box ammo without any progress, im sendin it back for the 6th time and praying Sig can figure it out. i just hope they don’t shoot 3 shots and say “looks good to me”. cause i ran thru 3 mags in a row with no problems the other day. but that doesn’t mean im not gonna go out tuesday, load my first mag, and get a misfire right off the bat. its driving me bananas

maybe some gunsmith or engineer out here is gonna be like “ye something something firing pin, or swap out this, yada yada” and ill finally be able to rest. or maybe its cause i adjusted the trigger post travel screw, and someone will give me the magic formula

i have a .308 that looks just like this and i was told by a gun store manager that it meant it was a dud, no primer so no way of setting off the round if fed into a gun. i wondered if that meant these could be used as dummy rounds. also how hard is it to reprime it? or do u have to go in a certain order when reloading it?

hiya! i didn’t know there was a sub JUST FOR US! i got this puppy at the end of May as my first pistol (ar15 was first gun, in Feb). shot 1000 rounds through it within the first week or two, rearsight sheared right off, with the sight part intact, but that screw was split like Gojo

sent it off to Sig to repair and ordered an offbrand optic for it when it came back. got it back, mounted the RMRfootprint optic directly to the slide, blue loctite on the 2 screws, couldnt utilize the recoil lugs at all, and went right back to shooting.

currently ~3200 rounds deep now and the rearsight is loosey goosey again, i tried loctiting the screw but the screw still loosens from recoil. sig sent a suppressor height sight with a short screw to replace it, and that didn’t really solve it. anyone else run into loose rearsight issues? i hand tighten it down, tried loctite, and yet it still comes loose after 200 or so rounds.

and lastly, i stumbled across a freedomgorilla vid that was recommending adapter plates for holosun optics for the p211, and that’s how i ended up here.
optic has not moved one bit. still secure and snug, no wiggle, no zero changes. but is there a big benefit to adding a plate? or a necessity? i was bummed i couldnt use any of the lugs (not even one!) but the optic is holding strong off those two screws. if it’s fine, do i leave it? or has it resulted in disaster for someone? i guess its not as bad as the wobbly rear, and ill notice the optic loosen before it becomes catastrophic.

but i value yalls thoughts!! this is my first pistol, so i don’t wanna get too cocky and ignore a red flag that’s plain as day

post removed from supersafety sub, and was told to try here for tx22 frt questions

saw this TX22 FRT at a gun show and was wondering why it had a slit through the pin hole. i asked the guy about it and he said all of the ones he had were like that, and he didn’t know if it was intentional or not. i might go and measure it to see if the hole is small and that cut is to increase tolerance without drilling the hole bigger. dunno how that would affect the material integrity tho.

it was goin for 50. i bought one from BAM for 20, fitted perfectly, then took it out to round the edges to keep the striker box from being chewed up. got one from Cerb for 40, but pin hole is too small (1.5mm vs min 1.7mm). returning it and seeing if they have anything else or will just refund.

not a gripe. i just thought it’d be interesting to show my stats for fsd. even though i let it take me everywhere, it never knows how to get into places or out of places. it consistently passes my destination and has to do a 7 minute turn around. or if it leaves my apartment, it’ll go to a dead end, 3 point turnaround, and still take the longest route to the exit. my streak will never be up there, but id gladly let fsd take the wheel once im on the road. that’s the only thing im missing for 100%. not taking the dumbest routes to enter or exit

readin the manual and then gonna clean the gun before i shoot it.

brought it in, they asked what i had, i forgot the name and said “Ivory, Sears catalogue gun”

It’s an Iver Johnson Model2-X single shot bolt action chambered in .22
Can shoot 22short, 22long, and 22lr which i thought was neat. must be the way it loads and ejects rounds with that lil lippity bippity thing. or maybe its somethin else.
shoots straight, no recoil at all, ejects brass 12 feet into the air so i wasnt able to catch it. it was also the first time ive tried to catch brass from a bolt action so there’s that.

lighting in the range made it impossible for me to see the front sight thru the rear sights. rear sights would catch the bright light above me and get fuzzy thus fogging up my view on the front nib. i wonder if doing that lighter blackening trick would help or not. turning off the light in my lane helped a ton, but im sure there’s a ton of ways to increase visibility of irons. maybe mark it with a white sharpie.

only downside of loading is i have to guide the round into the breech since the lil dip doesn’t align it with the bore. slows rate of fire a lil bit but still fun to shoot. super duper light gun. i want one with a mag. or semi auto. but with the weight and accuracy kept the same. is that too many things to combine into one gun?

but ye, told the regulars i was arthur morgan for the day and now i have a group of ppl who wanna play RDR2 together. haha Sears gun go pewpew

came home, cleaned the frick out of it, now i smell like Raid. prolly gonna pick up some kinda sniper stock padding from Academy in the morning so the metal plate backing of the stock wont be so slippy. maybe get a fancy one with a tonna slots for 22lr so i can try to do reloads from the stock. i think they’re all sized for .308 tho

been thinkin bout getting this kimber 2k11 since i had a chance to hold it and feel the slide and trigger. i don’t own a handgun, just a carbine, but ive shot other peoples guns. shot all of my bf’s handguns including ruger 1911, 32 long colt and 38 special revolvers, sa-xd, m&p9, and p226. p226 is the nicest one for me so far cause it doesn’t take considerable effort to rack, but its still much more than i can handle if im trying to do certain non-standard racks like underhanding it with left hand. the kimber felt really light, like the sig mosquito’s rack.

while discussin with ppl at the range yesterday tho, i found out that 1911s typically are really finicky, which i recalled from disassembly the ruger 1911 and the colt 1903. bushings to rotate, specific spot to insert takedown lever, etc. i asked if 2011s continue that tradition and they confirmed it. so now im not exactly sure what im gonna be getting into if i decide to pick up the Kimber. is it too much for a first time handgun owner? or is it not too complex, and just requires reading the manual meticulously? im also happy to get more general tips regarding handguns. anything i wouldn’t have learned from my rifle already, or from shooting handguns. i have a pretty good 5yd grouping, but at 15 im unable to get it to always stay in the center. i have a lotta hits going to the sides typically. all on paper, but not where i wanted to hit.

i like single action cause i don’t feel comfortable with a double action without a safety. prolly just too used to ARs and always being able to switch to safe whenever my finger isnt in the trigger guard. i like DAs with a decocking lever, but that doesn’t seem to be the norm, so i figured id be happy with a SA and keep the hammer down until i got on the bench.

bf’s rossi 38 special and his dad’s smith and wesson 32 long colt.

the 32 cylinder pops out easily with a lil shake and spins for a long time on its own.
the 38 special needs a hard shake or assistance of a finger and barely spins for half the time.

im just wondering what part of the revolver typically controls the comfort surrounding this mechanic. as far as i could tell, it could be the nub grinding against the frame, the spring holding the nub in that allows u to pull out the cylinder (pushing the rossi nub takes more force), maybe needing to oil the rod that u push to eject casings (no clue how to reach that internal section), or something else entirely.

new gun owner here!~ got my M&P15 in February and have really customized it to my own weird style. rarely get a chance to rapid fire, so i had to take the opportunity when i got permission to shoot on a friend’s land!!

can tell im inexperienced since i didn’t realize i still had rounds left in the magazine until i saw the cartridge fly out at the end lol

its old box, so has very lil info on it as was the standard. bf’s dad’s old guns, im plannin to go out to shoot his old 6 shot rossi revolver today. was gonna try three bullets cause the box is nearly empty. was probably last shot before i was born, to be honest.

as far as i know, it’s my boyfriends dads double barrel shotgun that’s old and i just wanted to see if i could smoothen up the handling with lube since a lot of his guns are gunked up or rusted. honestly have no idea what i’m looking at, and don’t wanna do anything that might hurt it. like, why does it have a compartment that looks like a battery cover? what’s the nipple on the underside do? is it 20 ga? ive never looked at a shotgun indepth before. its a pain to open and close the reloading part, break action or whatever.

just moved in with boyfriend and went thru his gun collection since it was the act of holding this m4 2 months ago that made me purchase mine.

while inspecting his gun, i felt like something was off about the castle nut. i asked if he installed the end cap himself or had a friend do it, but he cant remember as it was a long time ago. the reason i was concerned was cause i didn’t see any staking. im currently going through Patrick Sweeney’s Gunsmithing the AR15 since my bf gifted it to me, and i believe i will eventually figure out the castle nut thing on my own. i would just feel more at peace if i could get a preliminary confirmation from others though! im new to NC so i don’t know any gunsmiths or armorers to visit yet.

sorry for weird stance in picture, i don’t have a table in the new room, so everything is done on my butt, my knees, or squatting. in this pic, im squatting so i can balance the gun on my knee.

side note: his collection is pretty stacked, as im a one gun enthusiast. i have my work cut out for me, and im sure im gonna be back for guidance shortly. from fixing up rust, restoring metals, and learning how to diagnose certain guns ive never handled before. my first task is trying to go through and clean and lube as many as i can since it seems like both he and his father did not care to do any maintenance…which im not surprised by as i was able to fix someone’s magazine malfuncs at a range just by spritzing it with clenzoil about a week ago in Houston.