

Wind buffeting is driving me nuts
'25 rally
The wind buffeting on this is getting pretty old and has become my primary fatigue point.
I'm 5'6" with the 2" lower seat from SRC
It feel like no matter how I sit, my helmet is stuck in a turbulent air stream. It shakes my head back and forth, it gives me a headache, it blurs my vision, and is incredibly loud no matter the hearing protection - actually worse with better hearing protection. It's like bone conduction... It's bizarre.
So like... I understand this isn't exactly a touring bike. My expectations are tapered. I expect I'll get blown around, I expect I won't have a lot of power, I expect to not be able to go quick without the front end getting light. But at the same time, I feel like that there has to be a solution for smoothing out the turbulence going over my head.
I get that turbulence is a complex system and there might be a lot of guess and check here. But I'm curious if anyone's found any ways of reducing or mitigating this?
Some observations I have:
- Standing on the bike is actually pretty smooth over the helmet
- Tucking in to the point of touching my chin to the tank improves a little, but nothing substantial
- I noticed a LOT of air coming up behind the windshield from around the fork area, between the plastics and the gauge display
Items on the bike:
- Front light bar above fender, below headlights
- Nav tablet above the speedometer
- Stock side mirrors
- Bark buster guards
Ideas... Maybe?
- No windscreen
- Larger windscreen
- Bellows of some sort to seal off the air stream around the fork area... Though I'm not sure if this would make the front end lighter at speed?
- Removing plastics on the bike. Maybe less frontal area?
- Removing skid plate
- Clip on wind screen lip
- Edging on wind screen (this stuff)
- Remove side mirrors
- Remove grip guards
- Remove front tire fender
- Cant the bike further forward by slipping the forks up on the clamps
SO yeah tl;dr my noggin is turned into a bobble head from turbulent air and I'm curious if anyone has found any known helpers for this
Multiple wheel sets?
Just pondering something - if it makes sense to have 2 wheel sets, one with off road tires, one with on road.
I'm in information gathering phase right now. Haven't made a decision. But the 2 things that are in my mind:
1: Brake rotors
2: Sprockets
I realize that the brake rotors are more or less bedded into the pad. Would there be an issue with keeping sets of rotors and letting those stay on the wheel? I.e. rotors stay mated to the wheel, not the bike
And in much the same vein, I'm considering the drive sprocket as well. I know those wear with the chain to some degree. Could a pair of those be swapped out? Would it need to be changed between wheels? Or would that require maintaining 2 separate drive trains (chain, front sprocket, rear sprocket)?
I realize this is one of those questions that's going to get a lot of strong opinions about value. I'd love to just focus on the logistics aspect of the brakes and sprockets since that'll inform me of the rest of everything else and help me determine what the break even points between labor, logistics, and costs are.
Cheers!
How to: Plumbing the charcoal canister delete
I figured I'd share what I did in case it helps anyone who deleted their charcoal canister.
Goal was to have a system that performs safely, reliably, and in a controlled manner. I didn't really like the idea of shoving a random breather somewhere. Put it up high - you're apt to get fuel where it shouldn't be if you tip the bike. Down low? And it's possible to suck water up on a hot day on an empty tank once the air mass in there cools down.
So, here's how I did it!
The bike already has a ground dump behind the right foot peg. Coolant overflow, large tank drain (only on rally), and charcoal canister overflow dump.
I won't go into detail on how to remove the canister. Jake already did a good overview of it, though I will say it's possible to get it out without cutting anything :)
But, once removed, I put a y-fitting in there and used some 3/16" tubing to go from my air box, through a filter, to the tank, then a drain down to the original location as well. Orifice valve at the end is to keep it from becoming a full-fountain if something goes real weird with the bike.
Anyways.... Here y'all are!
Overview: https://i.imgur.com/5lbAWAs.png
Near tank: https://i.imgur.com/1jlmsqX.png
At airbox: https://i.imgur.com/WP5xlwe.png
Charcoal canister delete questions
'25 rally
I'm looking at the thing.. Seems pretty straight forward to remove. What I'm less clear on is the fuel tank side.
There's a big hose, and a little hose coming off the tank. Big one looks like it runs down to the bottom of the bike, near the rear brake, small one runs over to the charcoal canister.
What I'm not clear on is which one (or both?) of the barbs off the tank gets plugged and / or rerouted.
I've searched and can't seem to find much. Best I could find were for the 300 L non-rally which has 1 barb on the tank, not 2 like mine. Any guidance here?
Edit: Ok so that second line? Yeah that's just a permiter drain. It's a straight shot from this tube here: https://i.imgur.com/7gqZ5l7.png