u/SomeBloke

I bought that silver iPod Classic Gen 7 a while back, thought I’d bricked it trying to install RockBox and came onto this sub for help (which you all gave, thank you!). Unfortunately, I browsed the sub and fell in love with all the other iPod models again, recalling how iconic they were when I was growing up. You guys made me go full iPod monkey and this is entirely on you.

My favourites here are the 7 Classic (for pure FLAC Rockbox IEM listening joy), the 3 Classic (for monochrome goodness and hefty chunkiness), the Mini 2 (for same reasons as the 3 Classic), and the Nano 2 for pure aesthetic.

I’m still restoring the Nano 1 in picture as well as the black Gen 7.

And that Tivoli player is fantastic with its Kloss sound engineering, fold out iPod dock, detachable speaker, and blue backlight.

I designed this as a space-saver for the already compact FNIRSI DPS-150 Programmable Power Supply. It's more comfortable for me to be able to tilt the power supply upwards and lift the screen for better access to the banana plug ports and the adjustment scroll wheel.

The arm to the board ratchets up and down with a simple print-in-place mechanism (just give the arms a firm squeeze together after printing and it snaps into functionality).^(1)

Assembly is straight forward with four M3 screws attaching the holder to the arms (I don't often use screws but, in this case, it was a lot less fiddly and trimmed down the amount of print required) and the rest uses the standard Multiboard bolt lock onto a snap (I prefer the moderate weight bearing snap as it tends to stay in place properly).

Model available for download here.

^(1) There was a load of trial and error getting that ratchet to "break" well and hold in place firmly. I'm going to use the work invested in that to build a parametric ratchet tool since it's a handy function to be able to add to a workshop design.

I designed this as a space-saver for the already compact FNIRSI DPS-150 Programmable Power Supply. It's more comfortable for me to be able to tilt the power supply upwards and lift the screen for better access to the banana plug ports and the adjustment scroll wheel.

The arm to the board ratchets up and down with a simple print-in-place mechanism (just give the arms a firm squeeze together after printing and it snaps into functionality)

Assembly is straight forward with four M3 screws attaching the holder to the arms (I don't often use screws but, in this case, it was a lot less fiddly and trimmed down the amount of print required) and the rest uses the standard Multiboard bolt lock onto a snap (I prefer the moderate weight bearing snap as it tends to stay in place properly).

Model available for download here.

Tried plugging in a long-abandoned Bluetti EB70, AKA Beelzebub’s Battery Pack, and immediately smelled Hades. I disassembled it hoping to finally achieve the dream of a loose wire sparking and thrashing about but instead found dinner served well done on a green plate. it’s going to be a long process of systematic measuring but thought I’d just check with the more experienced on here that the obvious issue, the caps that got swol, is more likely to be the result rather than the cause before I waste more caps in this thing‘s butt.

Follow up: Thanks so much for the replies, hugely appreciated and the perfect balance of informative and entertaining for me.

I’ve wanted a Gen 5 for a while now and at $30 I wasn’t expecting too much based on the poor photos but got a nice surprise to find the AV kit was still boxed! This is going to be an excellent way to record onto cassettes.

This was from a free lot (bonus!), I've hooked it up to the amplifier, and playback is pretty much perfect based on the tapes I have. However, when I hit record, it gives a half turn and then stalls. I've opened it up to check pots and belts but it actually looks really clean inside. Belt tension seems pretty reasonable too (except for the belt to the counter, which I'm assuming shouldn't have a lot of tension anyway?) and I'd like to avoid tearing apart the transport if that's not the issue.

If any of you have some direction on troubleshooting this, it would be hugely appreciated.

EDIT: Between u/climateconnect8360 and u/Rendenbrandt the problem turned out to be renowned idiot u/somebloke

The issue was the Edit button (on the right hand side near the levels) being activated.

I’ve never experienced anything like this before. I’ve done plenty of repairs on the board but have printed successfully for hundreds of hours since then.

I got the blob of death yesterday and disassembled the hot end assembly, replaced the ceramic element, reassembled it and then tested it only to discover none of the fans were working. the element heated up fine so I checked the fans on my bench supply and they all worked properly. Tested the JST terminals on the board and I got a reversed voltage value. Naturally none of the fans work now because the JST connectors can’t be reversed. Any suggestions on what could have caused this and how to troubleshoot it?

Please forgive the sketch, I’m incredibly new to this, having watched my young daughter’s first two lessons, and don’t yet know the specific terms so this is the best way for me to show what I mean.

The instructor is teaching her with a French grip foil and in her second lesson he taught her the normal grip as well as how to rotate the hand for a cut. When he described that action he mentioned, “move from 6 to 11”.

I didn’t want to ask anything because this is my daughter’s idea and I want her to learn to run with it independently when she’s there. But she’s really enthusiastic and wants to practice the movements at home.

I’m making a replica French grip for her to hold just to get used to the new hand movements and have fun. I’ve googled as much as possible but I’m limited by my lack of knowledge of the intricacies of fencing so any help would be hugely appreciated.

You only have to enter three dimensions:

1. Diameter of the object you want to hold (gap tolerance is included automatically)
2. Height for the holder
3. Thickness of the walls

On average it prints in less than an hour and uses under 30g of filament. That naturally depends on the sizes you've set. It simply slots onto two adjacent MultiBuild threaded fix points (same ones used for MultiBin Shells) and prints without supports. Parameters have upper and lower limits to prevent errors.

I hope it helps, and enjoy.

Makerworld model

Cults model

I had three basic goals with this design:

1. Reduce the filament requirement and print time for Multibin  Shells.
2. Allow me to maximise the space directly in front of me on my Multiboard wall by stacking shells directly above each other on the  grid.
3. Ensure full compatibility with standard shells, allowing Multibins to be easily removed without disturbing any Multibin Shells positioned above them.

I still find the fixing points for Multibin Shells to be one of the most reliable ways of securing anything to the wall. This is why I encountered issues with standard Multiboard shelves that use inserts. They were always either sagging forward or falling out completely if knocked. I replicated the Shell design with these shelves, but cut away the front portion whilst still allowing the side bin rail connectors to interlink with other shelves, which I believe results in a more robust wall.

Doing it this way allows me to stack shelves directly above each other on the Multiboard grid whilst still being able to quickly access the contents. It also means Multibin Inserts (the coloured cubes in these images) can be used without needing open space above the shelf. You can simply tilt the insert forward and place it on your bench to access its contents before neatly replacing it. It has been a huge help for me in organising my workspace and maximising the reachable area of Multiboard. I hope it helps you too.

Files available here

Note: This is an ongoing design. I am continually making tweaks as I identify things I like and dislike. The end goal is to make this fully parametric so that you just need to enter the height, grid width, and depth to generate the shelf you want. If you encounter any issues or have other observations, please let me know. Constructive feedback is the ultimate design tool.