I have a question about my 1971 Sears Craftsman 315.27782 circ saw. It is not the top of the line Craftsman Commercial, but it seems to have a UL Industrial Rated mark. Does this mean anything or was this a sort of manufacturing gimmick, as this seemed to be an homeowner saw? Also, you may recognize this saw from my “Slightly Older Circular Saw“ post.
He shot down 9 or 13 aircraft on the eastern front in WW2 in 109s & 190s.
One of the prongs is a bit loose, but since it's a molded plug, does it need to be replaced for risk of wire fraying? 1200W vacuum cleaner
Ancient Otis Interlock from the 40s? The elevator is a winding drum drive. Park Building, Titusville PA. Any info about these? It seems like a pretty good interlock.
So I was going to ride an old 1970s General Elevator, and the door popped open and it shut down. The elevator had overshot the landing (intermediate) by about a foot. What happened? I’m thinking an interlock failed and the door just popped open and it shut down, although it had already passed the call? The outer door wasn’t even latched and it quite easily slid open a bit. The inner door had very slightly popped open too. I called public safety immediately after.
At the Landmark Motel in Wildwood NJ, both the door open button and door safeties just stopped working? What might be the issue? It’s a shame because otherwise it runs excellent and these seem to be pretty robust. It’s a 1965 Dover Hydro unit completely original other than maybe the single bottom jack. Is it likely an operator fault or bigger issue? I’m assuming door safety curtain could be fitted somewhat simply, right? Both systems failed at the same time.
What fixtures are these? Found on old U. Sabetti lift in Rome.
front control arm bushings are slightly dry rotted and cracking, mechanic brought it up. 2018 Bolt, 99k miles, southeast pa. How is this? I am assuming control arms will be replaced too. A month?
My 1971 Lasko fan has a weird motor. I thought it was a PSC induction motor, but I don‘t see a capacitor. It’s got 4 poles, and has 2 separate windings. Doesn't seem like it’s got a centrifugal switch, and both windings seem to just be wired to the mains. Is it a shaded pole? It has got a squirrel cage rotor, so it is some kind of induction motor.
Fig 1: Ancient Montgomery Interlock
Fig 2: Door Operator
Fig 3: Inside the Car
Fig 4: Indicator
Fig 5: Fan
Fig 6: COP
Fig 7: Certificate
Fig 8: Door
Fig 9: Fan
I have a 1970s Mitchell 300 with a True Temper Foremost fiberglass rod. I need a replacement ferrule; the old one had to be removed and was in bad condition. I measured the diameter of both rod halves at 0.39 inches. Where would I find a replacement ferrule?
I need to drill a single 1” hole in concrete cinder block. I am looking at renting a drill. Would a 7 amp sds drill work? I’m guessing a regular hammer drill is out of the question.
I need to drill a single 1” hole in concrete cinder block. I am looking at renting a drill. Would a 7 amp sds drill work? I’m guessing a regular hammer drill is out of the question.
From no later than 1955. “Heller Bros Co” with a backwards s.
Any ideas of the manufacturer of this elevator? Installed in 1967. It’s a 100fpm 4-floor hydro unit. It has EPCO Flushline, probably one of the first installs with this fixture unless it has been modernized, which I highly doubt. It has a pretty basic relay controller, maybe GAL? There are no clues as to manufacturer. A nearby building has an old Dover installed by security (Radnor PA) from 1963, but that probably doesn’t factor into this much. It has a typical period-appropriate cab. Any ideas on the door track? I’d guess Dover or generic with EPCO and GAL equipment? I think it had an old MO Interlock. The whole thing is pretty run down, but it works ok.
My old circular saw makes a weird noise. I think bearings or dries up grease? Motor looks almost brand new and brushes are pretty good along with commutator. Makes noise with brushes out. When taking rotor out while it’s still connected to gearbox sound is still there?
General Electric once made power tools too! This was compatible with multiple heads, but there only was the drill attachment in the box, probably here somewhere.
What would be the best way to re-stain this 33 year old deck of mine? The previous stain job lasted 5 years, but it is now peeling badly. The wood itself is in surprisingly good shape, although the surface has some slight divots and since the deck was never really sanded when re-stained, isn't perfectly flat, but good enough. What would be the best was to go about this? I have a good 5 inch orbital sander, but I think I'll have to rent a floor sander and use chemical stripper? What I thought of trying was pressure washer, then scraper and go from there?