In my workshop I have a bench drill which I would like to control with a speed controller. The motor is single phase 50 240v 1/2hp 4 pole. I’m not sure or even possible which type of controller I would need, vfd? Any advice would be much appreciated
Hi everyone,
We are developing a small axial-flux permanent-magnet BLDC motor for household appliances.
We are having trouble designing the control/power system for 220–230V AC input. Our MOSFETs keep blowing, especially during power-on/off and switching.
What topology and protection would you recommend for this kind of application?
Any advice on rectification, DC bus, MOSFET protection, inrush current, and voltage spikes would be greatly appreciated.
Go easy on me, I’m a mechanical engineer and electric motors are a little magic to me. I want to construct a ceiling fan to turn a large diameter (10 foot), very high rotating inertia and heavy fan (about 80 lbs). I’m fuzzy on how to find a motor that can handle the rotating inertia to start the fan turning and run slow speed (probably 60-120 rpm). I’m hoping to run single phase 120 V to it, but could run 240 if needed. Looking to buy off the shelf motor with I assume a gear reduction box on it. I’ve thought about treadmill motors or lower end VFD pool pumps but I’m not sure any of those turn slow enough. Tips appreciated!
Can anyone help me find a replacement board or something to control the motor on this 60 inch fan. The board arced when i wired it up in the 3rd pic you can see that resistor blown and now it wont power on at all. Can't find a replacement anywhere
Took this from a large self-propelled carpet extractor. I tested it with my treadmill motor supply and it works. I doubt I'll need the full 36 volts, as a flatbed loaded up with heavy stuff has no business going fast. I assume I need a power supply to avoid inrush current. How would you power this?
Thanks for any info!
I got these lying around, the motors magnets are still there and usable. I wanna know what I can do with it.
I'm thinking of merging the three shafts to create one long and powerful motor but that seems like a long shot.
Motor size: 2.7 MW @ 675 V, fed from a VFD.
External cable arrangement: 15 runs of 3C x 95 mm² cables, giving a total phase conductor cross sectional area of 1425 mm².
According to IEC 60034-1, For other cross-sectional areas of phase conductors, the earthing or protective conductor shall have a cross-sectional area at least equivalent to:
– that of the phase conductor for cross-sectional areas less than 25 mm2;
– 25 mm2 for cross-sectional areas between 25 mm2 and 50 mm2;
– 50 % of that of the phase conductor for cross-sectional areas exceeding 50 mm2.
Does this mean the motor manufacturer is required to provide an earth/bonding conductor with a cross-sectional area of at least 712.5 mm²?
I have an older Blum minipress I got at auction a few years ago for a steal. The reason I haven’t used it yet is because the motor is calling for 240v 3 phase. Nothing else in my shop runs on 3 phase. Is it worth getting an electrician in wiring it for 3 phase? Or should I just try and move this one and get a single phase one? Thanks in advance!
I picked this up at a resale shop because I’m looking to make a homemade rock tumbler. Barber Coleman from the 60s it looks like. Do you think this would work? Would you trust it but to start a fire in my house lol? Don’t know a thing about motors but am learning little by little.
Hi there!
I'm building a three phase linear motor in a wye configuration using FOC, and I have a question:
How does the PWM work with the sinusoidal current? Each coil has a half bridge, and they're all connected at neutral.
For example, say 𝜃=0. Then U=sin0=0, V=sin120=sqrt3/2, W=sin240=-sqrt3/2. So it makes sense that when the PWM is in its low state, it should be floating, and in its high state, it should be at its relevant voltage (For U, V+ if 𝜃<180, otherwise GND (could this not also be represented with neutral as the reference point, where V+ = N+V/2, and GND = N-V/2??)). But what if it's more like U=1, and V=W, then U is always providing current, but V and W are only sinking it to ground part of the time? But then U would only be on at the same duty cycle as V and W because otherwise its an open circuit, which makes me think that when PWM is in its low state, it's GND, and in its high state, it's at the relevant voltage. But what if it's idle? Then it's wasting all of the power holding a position - even when FOC commands zero torque!
Please help!
Thanks!
Hi,
I found these two motors in my Dad's shed, they are brand new in the box and probably have been there for over 30 years. It has GEFEG written in the red writing which I'm assuming is the brand or maker. Only thing i could think of that they could be used for is a forklift.
If anyone has any info on what these would be worth that would also be very helpful
Thanks so much
This diagram is for a lift on an industrial fryer. It looks like a hoist motor with a lifting hook. I was going through drawings one day and found this drawing of the motor connection. It kinda looks like a two speed with only low speed being used but what I don’t get is the jumper from 1W to 2W. Wouldnt that make one winding useless. Being a lift motor I assume a brake but nothing is shown on the drawing.
Two 2600w 3 phase motors i found in an abandoned swimming pool They have been sitting derelict since 2008, Im going to restore them, make them functional again and see if they run!
I want to connect it to a 230v mains in the uk. Is that bad practise ?
It has an additional wire that feeds power from the alternator to solenoid, it will disable the relay to stop the starter from activation, while running.
The highlighted yellow wire.
One phase motor has weak performance. It’s a saw, 230v ac (ac induction motor). Can’t seem to cut through a 2”4 without needing it to speed up after about half the cut.
I’ve measured between common, start and run and it seems the values are reasonable.
The cap measures 25 uF and is marked as such. Tried measuring its esr (5,3 ohm) but I don’t know if esr is relevant to a starting cap? Is it worth replacing it or might it just be a tired motor?
This is from an older Igloo powered cooler I picked up recently for longer road trips. It's the fan motor. It still spins fine but the bearings are shot and it's super loud. It's so old Igloo doesn't support it anymore. It's a 12v motor, body is 27.5mm in diameter and 32.5mm long. The shaft is 2.25mm in diameter and 26mm long on one side and 13mm long on the other. I have tried searching for 12v motors and everything I find is way too big or small.
Can someone point me to a place to find another motor or the search terms I need to be using?
This is a single phase start/run cap motor. I know the wire numbers are not visible but can anyone tell me if there is anything drastically wrong with this arrangement?
This motor is pulling 40A no load on bench (i question my amp clamp) there is reports of major V drop from source to motor terminals also.
Thanks
For my hobby I decided to maybe dive in the deep end (to see if my end goal is even possible). Wanted to use esp32 to send signals to some sort of combination of mosfets or whatever to control both brushed and brushless motors (brushless would have an ESC in front of it). 1 issue is the motors are off and on a lot with addition braking added to slow it quicker.
Is it really that involved to have an ESP32 control mosfets that power/control 12v motors that can spike to 20 amps? If it is then it is, but I'm just trying to wrap my head around the project at a very high level.
things I've tried
long story short and I appreciate honest answers.... is this just a waste of time for me to try to come up with some sort of 4 n channel mosfets in a high/low config? (2 for throttle and 2 for brake). And yes, if you made it this far, I am a newb but wanted to at least look into this.
thanks!