The back of your U.S. license has a barcode with everything the front does — covering the front isn't enough (a prevention PSA)
This sub sees the aftermath of identity theft, so I want to share an upstream thing a lot of people don't realize.
A huge amount of ID exposure happens through totally normal requests: a landlord, a marketplace buyer, a rental host, or a "verify yourself" step asks you to text or email a photo of your driver's license or SSN card. You send the whole thing — and now a full image of your ID (name, DOB, ID number, address, signature, photo) is sitting in someone's inbox, chat history, CRM, or camera roll. If any of that gets breached, forwarded, or the person asking was sketchy to begin with, it's a goldmine for a thief.
Two things people routinely miss:
- The back of a U.S. license has a PDF417 barcode that holds the same personal info as the front — name, DOB, address, license number, all of it. Covering the front but sending an uncovered back photo hands it right over. If you cover the front, cover the barcode too, or don't send the back at all.
- Photos carry metadata. A straight photo of your ID often includes the date and GPS location where it was taken — frequently your home. The original usually has it even if screenshots don't.
Practical prevention:
- Send only what the request actually needs. Many "send your ID" asks only need to confirm one thing (your name, or that you're over 18) — you can cover the rest.
- Cover the sensitive fields and the back barcode before sending.
- Strip metadata — re-exporting or flattening the image usually drops EXIF/GPS.
- Delete old ID photos sitting in your camera roll and in sent messages. Those are a standing liability if your phone or cloud is ever compromised.
- Be suspicious of who's asking. "Upload your ID to verify" is a common phishing setup — confirm the request is legit before you send anything.
You can do all of this by hand: screenshot it, mark it up in Photos or Preview, re-save, and delete the original.
Full disclosure, I'm the developer of a small on-device iOS app that does exactly this, which is why I know the barcode/metadata details. The manual method above works fine and costs nothing — happy to point to the app in a comment if that's within the rules, but I'm not here to pitch it.
Stay safe out there.