Image 1 — 2017 Chevy Cruze — very dark transmission fluid at 112k miles
Image 2 — 2017 Chevy Cruze — very dark transmission fluid at 112k miles
▲ 8 r/Chevy

2017 Chevy Cruze — very dark transmission fluid at 112k miles

I have a 2017 Cruze 1.4 with a six-speed automatic and 112,000 miles. I drained about 4 liters, and the fluid was very dark.

I had already prepared a clean pan in case I decided to pour it back. I got worried, so I returned 3 liters of the old fluid and added 1 liter of fresh ACDelco DEXRON-VI.

My plan is to replace 1 liter every 400 miles. Does this make sense, or should I just replace all 4 liters that drain out?

u/Tall-Race3385 — 12 days ago
▲ 2 r/saab+1 crossposts

2011 Saab 9-3 XWD – soft/spongy brake pedal

My brake pedal was already soft/spongy before any brake work. I later replaced a frozen rear caliper and badly rusted rear rotor because of a separate noise issue. I bled the brakes afterward, but the original soft-pedal problem remains.
With the engine OFF the pedal gets pretty firm. Once the engine is running, it becomes very soft and travels very low. Braking is also weaker than it should be.
One strange thing: the brake-fluid reservoir cap diaphragm gets sucked deeply inward, and when I remove the cap I hear a strong vacuum hiss as air rushes in.
Master cylinder, ABS hydraulic unit, reservoir cap/vent, or something else? Anyone had this on a 9-3?

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u/Tall-Race3385 — 2 months ago
▲ 5 r/saab

2011 Saab 9-3 Turbo4 all wheel drive — Brake Parts Help

I’m replacing the front and rear brakes on my 2011 Saab 9-3 Turbo4 XWD (non-Aero). My brake codes are AC-BC-CC-DB (build plate attached).
Has anyone with the same setup replaced theirs?
If so, what brand/part numbers did you use, where did you order them, and did everything fit correctly?
I’m looking for rotors + pads, front and rear. Thanks!

u/Tall-Race3385 — 2 months ago

2009 EOS 2.0T CCT Timing Chain Job - First Time, Few Questions

First time doing a timing chain job. Replaced the chain, guides, and tensioner on my 2009 EOS 2.0T CCT. Timing marks lined up and the engine rotates smoothly by hand.

A few questions:

Found the metal pin in the attached picture on a rag near my work area. Does anyone recognize it or know where it belongs?

Before reinstalling the cam bridge, I rotated the engine by hand to check the timing. Could that have caused any damage?

After reinstalling everything and pulling the tensioner pin, I noticed the tensioner extends and retracts slightly every half turn to full turn of the crank. Is that normal?

Tip: I found it easier to install the cam bridge before pulling the tensioner locking pin In my case, the cam bridge didn’t want to slide in easily. I had to use an 18mm wrench on the camshaft and move it slightly left or right until the bridge lined up and slid into place.

I haven’t started the engine yet. Everything looks good, but I’m nervous about the first startup. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

u/Tall-Race3385 — 5 months ago
▲ 2 r/Volkswagen+1 crossposts

2009 VW EOS 2.0 TSI CCT 135k miles

I confirmed through the timing inspection hole that I still have the old style timing chain tensioner. I also have startup chain rattle/stretch symptoms.

Question:
Can I replace ONLY the tensioner and have it fix the issue, or once the chain is stretched do I need the full timing chain kit?

Not asking what’s ideal — asking if anyone here actually replaced just the tensioner successfully.

u/Tall-Race3385 — 5 months ago