Image 1 — Cat back exhaust swap going downhill with gusto
Image 2 — Cat back exhaust swap going downhill with gusto
Image 3 — Cat back exhaust swap going downhill with gusto
Image 4 — Cat back exhaust swap going downhill with gusto
Image 5 — Cat back exhaust swap going downhill with gusto
Image 6 — Cat back exhaust swap going downhill with gusto
Image 7 — Cat back exhaust swap going downhill with gusto
Image 8 — Cat back exhaust swap going downhill with gusto
Image 9 — Cat back exhaust swap going downhill with gusto
Image 10 — Cat back exhaust swap going downhill with gusto
Image 11 — Cat back exhaust swap going downhill with gusto

Cat back exhaust swap going downhill with gusto

Purchased the BRExhaust 2005-2012 Nissan Pathfinder 4.0L Direct-Fit Exhaust System Kit 106-0066.

My OEM one with two mufflers was shot out. Just wanted to do a quick swap over the weekend and I’m getting my butt kicked.

Was ready for tight bolts on the cat flange but this was otherworldly for me.

Used my torch and PB Blaster back and forth trying to shock it etc, used my air scaler to break the scale away and shock the stud, wire wheeled it to be safe, and nothing was working.

Finally had to cut them but even then I could t get the stud out of the cat flange. Took an even closer look, and I could be wrong, but I think they were welded in to the flange with a stud gun or something.

Decided to just drill them out since the kit has bolt through hardware.

Got most of one but the others I’m making almost no progress. Tomorrow I go get new drill bits and trudge the road.

But now I look at the new pipe/flange compared to the cat outlet, and they’re almost 3/4” different in their ID.

Am I just dropping the ball on doing my part, is something not right, or is this standard for these 3rd party kits and it’s nothing to worry about?

u/TheHandOfZeus_19 — 5 days ago

2012 R51 pathfinder 4wd suspension and steering refresh

Looking to do a kind of “mile zero” refresh for my front and rear suspension, steering components, and some other complimentary stuff while I’m under the ride.

I’m a Diy’er as of late(economically driven) and while I can follow instructions/manuals to achieve desired results, I’m reaching out to pool tips/tricks/best practices and advice on the efficient order flow/order of operations for doing the work.

Looking to do it in 2-ish segments, front and rear.

Shopping for pre-assembled kits where possible to eliminate specialty tools where I can(control arms with ball joints, strut/shock assemblies).

All this is to keep the vehicle safe and functioning but she’s at almost 200K and only a few years out from being “put out to pasture” as a 4wd vehicle around the property that has AC and can help me with work without needing to regularly transport me.

Happy to list the parts/components I have in mind although I haven’t shopped for anything specifically yet.

I will aim to replace every fastener I have to remove to do the work and keep any salvageable hardware as a back up.

Also aware that u will 100% have to get an alignment done when I’m finished.

Thank you in advance to all of you who contribute in helping this plumber keep his workhorse going for a few more years.

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u/TheHandOfZeus_19 — 9 days ago

Fixing my pre hung door not being flush

First time home owner but have been in the home for 4 years now.

Slowly getting around to maintaining and fixing stuff I’m finding.

A few weeks ago I got around to replacing my weather stripping on my front door as I’ve seen light leak through for some time now.

Bought the higher end big box store rubberized kerf stuff after measuring to confirm correct sizing/dimensions.

After installing it, it was everything I had to get my door to close.

Great, I bought the wrong size. Checked dimensions again, confirmed dimensions of what I purchased, same size.

Looked a little closer and upon inspection discovered a few things that I’ll list. Please excuse my lack of correct vocabulary while I describe what I found and present pictures:

⁠1. The interior hinge side edge of the door, when closed, sits flush with the door frame(jamb?).

  1. The exterior hinge side edge of the door, when closing, makes contact earlier with the weather stripping before the handle side edge.

  2. The interior handle side edge sticks almost 1/4” out of flush with the door frame(jamb) at the bottom and almost 1/2” if not more, at the top.

  3. The exterior handle side edge just barely makes contact with the weather stripping once closed.

  4. It is a 4 hinge door and the top two hinges each have a torx head screw which I’m assuming is the long structural screw.

Now before I jumped on here I did give it a break in period, but the handle edge being out of flush as far as it is has me alarmed(maybe I shouldn’t be?) so I’m looking for advice on whether this is a standard/acceptable practice/occurrence and/or how I can fix it to bring it back to flush, make better contact with the weather stripping, and stop my AC from bleeding out of my house.

House built in 2019 for reference. Will gladly take other pics as requested to diagnose and correct.

Thank you in advance.

u/TheHandOfZeus_19 — 25 days ago