I want to buy a high power motor for my next project, but the problem is that everything from 1-3kw looks the same. How do I make sure the seller isnt pulling a fast one on me and overvolting a cheaper motor?
A while ago I got laid off and to add insult to injury SoFi dropped my interest rate because I was no longer receiving direct deposits. Does SoFi Plus still offer the 3.1% HYSA without direct deposit?
Bit of a noob question but this is way to expensive to yolo:
First photo is the inside of a lawn mower. The pulley and axle it sits on is directly connected to the mower's differential which still works. I want to connect a DC motor to it, such as the one shown in the second picture, ideally by setting it on top to drive the axle directly but I dont know how. Alternatively I could put another pulley on the motor and run a belt between the two, but I also dont know how to connect a pulley to the motor shaft in such a way that the motor actually spins said pulley.
Specs:
Differential axle is 1/2" in diameter,
Drive belt is 1/2" wide
I have no machine tools but do own a 3d printer
I'm having print issues with my SV08 from what I believe to be taco bed. For my previous printer I just replaced the print plate with a sheet of G10, but the stock bed sensor doesn't seem to detect my G10 sheet.
I'm interested in this plate because 1) it's the only option actually in stock, 2) it's not a $300 bed replacement, and 3) I can just plop this on without rebuilding the entire printer.
I'm concerned that this is only 0.5mm thick, as Ive had problems with 1.5mm sheets not being rigid enough. If this isnt SUPER FLAT there's no point in wasting money on a new plate.
I have a stock SV08.
Has anyone else used this? Is this a legit vendor? Is it flat?
I need to print a bunch of identical items. Rather than printing them one at a time, cleaning the plate, and restarting the print, I would rather start an entire plate of them overnight and pick up the lot in the morning.
The problem is that the build plate is nowhere near flat. Even though it creates a bed mesh before every print and calibrates the z offset, the toolhead is still too close for some parts of the plate and too far for other parts. This causes the toolhead to scrape against the print and often rip it off, creating messes like pictured. This time it also ripped off the thermistor, previously it snapped the hotend in half.
On my last printer I solved this with a sheet of G10, but the bed leveling sensor cant detect G10 causing the toolhead to plow straight through the build plate.
Has anyone else had this defect? Im wondering if this is something that can be fixed or if I need to RMA it.
I was trying to print on the whole plate when it crashed into the part, creating a big glob of plastic and yanking out some cable.
I'm trying to design some cookie cutters and have sketched up this moderately complex/organic shape.
I want to make all these lines 2mm thick so that I can extrude and print this part.
I tried 2d offset but it didnt work for this sketch.
