Was changing brake pads and disks on the rear side and the thingymabob that sits around the bearing kinda looks like a relic from Titanic.
So is there anything I can do like a rust converter or something to extend the life of this or is it like so badly f**ked that I want it replaced this year?
Right side kinda looks worse than left side, but it both looks like structural rust to me xD
I see on my left headlight that it's worn and getting condensation on the inside sometimes, which is an issue on the mandatory EU inspection and certification that's around January next year.
Is there a way to only get the headlight glass? I only find the entire headlight assembly on AutoDoc (10 kr =~ 1€) and I'd not fancy dealing with replacing everything inside the headlight atm.
"I gotta sneeze but I have these cables running through my nose"
In the video you see the absurd stupid design from FFG on the conveyor pallet system for loading the Hessapp DVT 400.
The hanging spindle picks up the stock from the pallet on the lift, but all the chips get blasted into this area along with all the coolant and gets stuck to the conveyor belt. And with no holes or relief slots in the system all the chips gunk up until they block the pallets from moving.
Need to clean the conveyor every month to prevent clogging and it also eats up all the air hoses .-.
You'd expect better from a machine made in 2020. It's like the machine was intentionally designed to be as awful for the operator as possible.
Rant done.
Steam vented.
Hotel Trivago.
Hi I'm a happy owner of a Focus Mk3 2011 Hatchback, but it has some minor quirks. Sometimes while playing from the radio the CD-player will try to eject while there is nothing inside, and also try to load CD without anything being inserted. Really annoying because it takes priority over the radio and it interrupts my listening. I assume the sensor is malfunctioning.
Is it safe to just unplug the jumper to the CD player or do I need to change the entire media system?
I use a bt to fm dongle to play spotify from my phone because the bluetooth in the car has full amount of phone connections and I can't seem to find out how to delete the old devices. Manual doesn't have anything on it or shows menus that don't exist in my options.
I bought this 2011 Focus used from a guy 2 months ago, it just passed eu mandatory inspection a month before that.
I noticed after checking the new registration that the tires were low profile tires not listed for use on the registration and they look pretty "dry" cracked up.
Supposed to be 215/50/R17, they are 215/45, summer tires.
Looked at the date of mf and it says 0516, which is 5th week of 2016 (right?)
I just ordered an appointment at the tire shop to change them out. They have good thread depth tho, but how bad do they look? I've heard something about changing them out at least every 5 years, this guy had 10 y/o tires on during the eu-certification and it passed somehow? Idk man...
So I tried to take on a project that might be a little bit technical, and so far it's working great but the information you get online is sometimes outright garbage.
I bought a Canlamp PD20 on sale and wanted it to be activated in sync with the high beams, so I went ahead and bought this relay kit from Lumen. Total all of this with the mounting bracket was around €400.
It needs power, ground and an activator signal. I decided to draw the main power from the engine compartment fuse box using the header for rear 12v outlet (I'm never using it anyways) and went to get the signal directly from the high beam cable. Ground from chassis. The cables are that long to keep the relay away from the battery. An inline 15A fuse is mounted on the positive power cable.
The info that I found on this wire was not really correct cuz my headlight connectors have more terminals than on the reference picture. I found the brown wire number 14 to be the positive high beam signal and pulled the signal with a wire brancher thing, which is not the number 1 that was listed in the schematic. Also negative terminal here was number 13.
(Also this brancher thing is horrible and is not waterproof sealed, I'm gonna split the signal properly with other inline connectors later)
I had open the bottom plug on the headlight assembly and inspect where the cables ended up inside of the unit and using a multimeter to find the polarities.
If anyone has plans doing the same, be aware that the drawings online are dodgy sometimes and that you should think more than once about the situation before doing anything.I'm gonna redo the connectors with something permanent and more durable later. This was only to check that everything worked.
Anyways that's my life experience on this project, hope this helped someone out of some frustration.
So here the other day I wanted to have my AC filled up, because the previous owner said it was empty and I noticed there was no cold air and it's kinda hot in Europe right now. I found a local shop that specialises in AC and asked them to fill it up.
Focus Mk3, Hatchback 2011, 1.6 TDCi (DuraTorq) btw
They said during the nitrogen test they found the condenser unit to be leaking and I had to repair it before they could fill it. I asked for a price estimate and the guy wanted the equivalent of €600 for a new condenser unit.
Meanwhile I see on Autodoc a new condenser with drier is like tops €100.
Would it be rude to ask for them to install it if I order it myself? What would be the reason to charge so effing much for a condenser (with drier), given they also put labor and refill in separate rows on the price estimate? Any mechanics here that might explain what I don't see?
I'm not interested in paying 6 times more for the part just to be oem, the car is after all 15 years old.
Like I bought the car at 125k km for just about €4000 and I don't fancy spending a quarter of that just to get cold air in the few summer months here in Norway. For now I'm just riding with the windows open.
Had a birth spot on the top of my hand that didn't really fit into any other tattoo than something like this.
I found this design online, some kind of a tribal sun /cyber sigil maybe(?)
Decided to spice it up with white tips on the tendrils and inside of the black border.
Needles are from Killer Ink.
Used Raw Pigments Platinum Blackout and Whiteout ink. Had a 50/50 greywash just to get some fade on the tendrils. Needed several passes for a good even fill inside, even with pure black, might just be skill issue xD
I tried some custom design that I wanted to try to tattoo, but I find the practice skin (Reelskin) to be kinda awful and it doesn't wanna suck up the ink very well. It also washes out really easily and the stencil just doesn't wanna stick, even with the stencil glue.
I tried lining first with a 12RL9, then I had to clean up the blurry lines with a 08RL9.
Had blacout ink, white ink and greywash 50/50 black.
The white also doesn't seem to wanna stick to the fake skin.
Should I just ditch the Reelskin and buy a rotisserie chicken instead? xD
Ötzi the iceman found in the Tyrolean alps with his 61 tattoos is currently the oldest specimen of documented tattooing on humans, dating back more than 5000 years ago.
I thought to pay a homage and get one myself. The one I went for is called "T_10" and is located on the wrist on his left hand, right over the carpal tunnel and is originally just two lines.
His cause of death is speculated to be from a wound where an arrowhead is lodged into his shoulder, and thus I thought arrow shaped lines would be fitting.
Tattoo was done with a 08RL9 and a 10RL9, starting with the thickest needle and then putting the thin lines and blend with the thin needle. Ink is Raw Pigments Blackout.
The angle was a bit awkward on the side pointing away from the camera, but overall I'm very satisfied with the result. I put several lines next to eachother to get the thickness and taper right and it seemed to do the job.
Wanted to tattoo something bronze age stuff like this petroglyph from Tanum in Sweden and decided just above the knee was a nice location that was easily accessible for me.
I only did the lining, wanted to do some shading but I didn't have the time yesterday so I just put on some lotion after I was done. Used a bugpin 09RL from Killer Ink and Raw Pigments "James Brown" ink for more of a dark brown tone instead of black.
Didn't have any stencil paper so I just used a sharpie and tried to imitate the shape to my best ability.
I started by shaving and cleaning the area of operations and used both gloves and vaseline just in case.
The needle attachment has a little hodgepodge prison tech vibes to it, but it was comfortable and worked well imo.
I was worried the sharpie would wash out if I tried to wipe off the excess ink on top, so I just let the ink obscure the stencil and tried my best to remember where the lines went, that's why it looks a bit jumbled here and there.
Also the people's body length should have been longer, but ai didn't see that during the stencil stage .-.
Any tips and tricks are welcome, I'm merely a beginner but I'm a fast learner.