r/FordFocus

When I first got my car in 2022 , the check engine light came on and my car would almost stutter/jolt when shifting gears . They replaced my transmission as it was covered under NYS lemon law . I got a bunch of maintence done last year and I had them check up on my transmission because it had been shifting weird again and they noticed no issues . They did new breaks , coiler packs , fluids etc and my car was driving smoother . As of two weeks ago , there was about 4 times my car hesitated about 5 seconds when I pressed on the gas to accelerate. Now the awkward jolt when switching in low gears is back and the check engine light is back on . I’m nervous I will need a new transmission again cause it’s similar symptoms to last time … I have been doing so much research that this is a reoccurring problem for my car and am hoping if it’s an issue Ford can work with me even tho I saw the most recent 150,000 mile or 10 year warranty on my car has expired. Calling the dealership tomorrow but I use my car for work , as in , I drive around and transport people . I am a job coach . If I need a new transmission I will not be able to afford to fix my car and may have to leave my job . Any advice or words of wisdom with this POS car ?

Bought an '08 SE yesterday 92k miles. Just curious if there's anything that I should keep an eye out for. Also had the weirdest thing happen, today when I hit my brakes I hear water sloshing around. It has been raining heavy in the area

2012 ford focus titanium with 174k miles going for 1500 usd. Would pay for itself after 11 months of driving with current gas prices, using it as a way to avoid miles on my current truck (daily driver), unknown if transmission work has already been done on it. Understand that the 2012 year has a pretty terrible transmission reliability. How does everyone feel about this idea? Stupid? Great? Impossible to tell??

Hoping someone can help me?

I have a problem with my 2014 ford fiesta Zetec 80. The issue is as described with more context below.

- The engine cuts out in slow traffic (but starts up again with no drama).
- The revs idle at 1.5k-2K - usually only after throttle has been engaged and car stops. Sometimes a little jerky with the car rolling and my foot off the accelerator.
- Braking is more of an effort, but does not feel weakened or poor.
- Throttle body was recently replaced but this seems to have done nothing and the issue has got worse.
- Timing chain replaced 15k miles ago.
- Fuel economy as of recently has dipped a bit.
- Air conditioning seems to stabilize the rough revs, as does general fans being turned on.
- Cars coolant tank cap recently flew off after the coolant was changed, coolant leaking everywhere. Replacing the cap seemed to fix this in and of itself.
- I have had 2 mechanics look over this, and neither seem 100% certain on what it is.
- NO fault codes show on a diagnostic.

Please can someone advise me if they have had similar issues to this, and if so, what they found the issue to be? Or if any mechanics happen to be aware of such an issue, I’d really appreciate a comment.

I use my car for work, and need it for a million other reasons, so I would like to find out if it is a known issue that can be fixed, or if I should scrap the car, as soon as I can.

Many thanks in advance!!

This is if you want to DIY it. You would need to program it with Forscan for it to work fully but most finctions should just work even without programming. The radio will think you're in a Fusion though lol.

This can be done if you have the 4" screen and want to go up to the 8" screen but there is extra stuff for that.

Right now the ebay seller Lacyautoparts has a few Ford Fusion 8" screen from 2017 and 2018. These are all sync 3 and if you already have sync 2 8" you can just swap it out with no additional hardware sort of.

The listings say "screen only" but I bought it because it says it needs to be reprogrammed. The screens themselves don't need programming, it's just the APIM that does. It was worth the shot. ,When it got here today it was the screen and APIM.

I paid $70 for it. Another $10 for a GPS antenna on amazon, and the wiring adapter for my 2015 for the USB hub was another $12. You don't NEED to do the USB hub unless you want to use carplay. Android auto works without doing it. The USB hub I got lucky and found someone selling one on ebay for $20 but they are typically about $70-100 for the OEM part. The one you need depends on your year but for the 2015 it's the single USB port verison. I think the double one would work too but would make the in dash USB port not work.

Here are the active listings. They will likely post more. The normal price is $100 which is a great deal for a sync 3 screen and APIM but they have a 30% off thing right now for some stuff.

SYNC Version 2.0.16 With Navigation: https://www.ebay.com/itm/389766933784
SYNC Version 3.0.17 With Navigation: https://www.ebay.com/itm/389766666640
Sync Version 2.0.16 With NO Navigation: https://www.ebay.com/itm/389767115843

New antenna: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R6NL5G6

The USB hub adapter depends on your year. Search for "SYnc 3 USB hub wiring adapter" Again you don't need this if you just want to use android auto.

For the active listings you can look up the vins that are listed on the page to see if they have navigation or not. The APIMs with navigation are different from the ones without it so if you want navigation, make sure to get one with it.

For me the total for my Sync 3 upgrade it's about $130 after tax. I should be able to sell my Sync 2 8" screen, APIM and USB hub for about $150 on ebay once im done. The screen and APIM I bought also had the bracket for the Ford Fusion on it so I have that listed on ebay now for $20. In the end Im going to profit from this upgrade lol.

For programming them, I have not done mine yet but as far as I know there is 2 ways. Either editing your As Built file for the APIM or downloading one from a newer model year focus that has all of the same features and uploading that to the APIM in forscan. I plan on doing the second one as it seems easier and I already found a car that matches mine.

No telling what version of Sync 3 is on these but they should be able to update to Sync 3.4 easily.

Hi guys.
A month ago I had the entire suspension replaced by a new mechanic. At the end of the job, he handed me this removed control arm, which was completely rusted through.

Four months ago, my previous mechanic replaced the front brake discs and pads. Is it possible that the control arm wasn't in this condition back then? This control arm was right next to the replaced brake disc. I find it hard to believe it wasn't already this bad at that point, but I'm not an expert on this.

https://preview.redd.it/3eo8y9th872h1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c9eb4e95e6cf9c8abe54b772e9a460035a9eb496

I’ve been driving my dads Mk1 Ford Focus recently after passing my driving test, and it has the worst clutch of any car I’ve ever driven.

After leaving it to sit overnight, the clutch pedal will noticeably sit about an inch lower than normal, and you have to manually lift it up again before driving. It’ll drive just fine even when the clutch pedal has sunk down a bit, but leave it for a few more days and it goes low enough that it’s hard to get into gear, and you have no choice but to lift it up manually.

I’ve also noticed that its a bit of a struggle to pull away quickly from a stop. If you dump the clutch, it just slips away for a few seconds and then it hooks up and pulls strong. No slipping while driving, only when pulling away and just after changing gear sometimes.

Once you‘ve gotten used to it, you can drive it and it’s not really an issue, but it’s something I would like to get to the bottom of, as it drives very differently from my other car, and I forget about It when I switch between them.

I’m thinking of changing the master cylinder and seeing if it changes anything. Apparently my dad‘s mechanic already bled the clutch and said that he wouldn’t bother looking into it any further (typical)

Hey yall I’ve had my 2014 for about 7 years. Bought it off a little old lady who just used it for church and grocery runs. It’s got just over 62k miles on it now. About 5 years ago I had the transmission recall done, and it’s been bad ever since. I’ve tried taking it back to ford but apparently they don’t guarantee their own recall work. Ever since she’s made this knocking sound, and slips a little at stop lights. Yesterday I got the dreaded “Transmission fault” alert. Took it to Auto Zone and the only thing that coded was the battery (still under their warranty Whoo!) the alert code went away and she drove fine the rest of the afternoon. This morning driving home from the gym, she started lurching forward when I would brake. I have a little Fixd scanner and ran that and it still didn’t pull any codes. Any idea what could be going on?

I really wish there was a class action for these junky cars lol.

Edit to add: just drove it to work. Somewhere around 30-35 mph it hiccups. If I’m under that, or once I get past that it’s fine. I used to drive a manual in college so to me it seems like it doesn’t want to shift from 2nd to 3rd. Maybe it just needs a new clutch kit? I think the new battery is a band aid. Still no codes or dash alerts 😬

https://preview.redd.it/cboy81fev12h1.png?width=2040&format=png&auto=webp&s=2ce8958f5a7251ca37d2f8f3eb9fd64d2cab88b7

Took the car to replace the PCV and this is what the mechanic sent back, saying he strongly recommends I let him clean the valves. Says he has to order some spray cans and that he has done it before. Only risk he said is that he needs to change the oil after.

EDIT, forgot to add the question: could this be from the bad PCV or is something else that needs to change (gas quality, driving style ?)