Image 1 — [For Sale] Makera Carvera Air Desktop CNC Mill 4th Axis Laser Bundle
Image 2 — [For Sale] Makera Carvera Air Desktop CNC Mill 4th Axis Laser Bundle
Image 3 — [For Sale] Makera Carvera Air Desktop CNC Mill 4th Axis Laser Bundle
Image 4 — [For Sale] Makera Carvera Air Desktop CNC Mill 4th Axis Laser Bundle
Image 5 — [For Sale] Makera Carvera Air Desktop CNC Mill 4th Axis Laser Bundle
Image 6 — [For Sale] Makera Carvera Air Desktop CNC Mill 4th Axis Laser Bundle
Image 7 — [For Sale] Makera Carvera Air Desktop CNC Mill 4th Axis Laser Bundle
Image 8 — [For Sale] Makera Carvera Air Desktop CNC Mill 4th Axis Laser Bundle
▲ 13 r/PHXList

[For Sale] Makera Carvera Air Desktop CNC Mill 4th Axis Laser Bundle

$1,900

This is the Makera Carvera Air desktop CNC mill. It is the bundle that includes the 4th axis rotary module and the laser module.

Also includes original accessories, a bunch of end mills, clamps, air pump, and more.

Very well cared for. In fantastic (basically new) condition and works perfectly.

Feel free to ask any questions you have!

If this ad is still up, it is still available! Located near I-17 and Greenway

u/TheSerialHobbyist — 4 days ago

P2105 (Throttle Control) Forced Engine Shutdown ...I'm Dying Here

This truck has some history and I'm not sure if it is relevant, but a lot of that information is here: https://www.reddit.com/r/FordTrucks/comments/1swob1d/p0135_p0155_upstream_o2_heaters_p0443_evap_purge/

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This is a 2006 F-450 with the 3V 6.8L V10. It keeps shutting down the engine and giving code P2105, which is for "Throttle Actuator Control System." My interpretation is that the computer doesn't think the throttle actuator is responding how it should and shuts down the engine for safety.

Potentially relevant information:

  1. The previous owner replaced the throttle body assembly (with motor and sensor) a few months ago. Brand/quality unknown.
  2. I have sent the PCM in for repair to Flagship One twice. They fixed several problems (see the link above), but this persists.
  3. I am in Phoenix, where it is very hot.
  4. This was a bucket truck and the wiring is a mess.
  5. So far, this engine shutdown has ONLY happened when I've been towing (even an empty trailer). Could be important, or could be a red herring.
  6. This only seems to happen once the engine is hot.
  7. Once it starts happening, it keeps happening frequently (until the engine cools off).
  8. The engine itself is not overheating.
  9. Seems to usually happen when slowing down, with foot off the gas.
  10. There are several other codes, mostly related to the CAN bus (see the image). I don't think those would affect the throttle body, but they could be related.
  11. I have logged data with ForScan while this happens. It shows that the throttle actuator is kind of always slow to respond. I suspect (but don't know) that maybe it exceeds some "too laggy" threshold and that's when the shutdown happens.

Any advice, ideas, or suggestions would be very much appreciated! I bought this truck because I need it for my business to haul heavy stuff, but it has been an absolute nightmare so far and is unusable in its current state. I don't know where to go from here.

u/TheSerialHobbyist — 18 days ago

Where the heck is the MAP sensor??

This is the 6.8L V10 on a 2006 F-450.

ForScan is showing the MAP sensor at a constant 4.99V, so it is probably bad and needs to be replaced.

But I can't find the dang thing!

I can't find any diagrams showing where it is exactly on this particular engine. AI says it should be on the passenger side, behind the throttle body ...but I'm not seeing it there.

Anyone know where it actually is?

u/TheSerialHobbyist — 25 days ago

[For Sale] Clausing 201 Metal Lathe - $2500 OBO - I can deliver!

Asking $2500

But I need to sell ASAP, so feel free to make an offer!

I have to make room in my garage and sell one of my babies: this Clausing 201 gearhead light industrial lathe for metal.

This was made just before Atlas took over, when Clausing was still top-tier. It is very capable and can handle all metals (including steel) easily.

Works great! I just replaced the cross slide lead screw and nut, so everything is nice and tight.

Runs on standard 115/120V single phase household power.

Includes the very sturdy steel table it is on, the three-jaw chuck, the quick change tool post, an assortment of tool holders, the tail stock, a Jacobs chuck, and a live center.

I can deliver around Maricopa county (this is several hundred pounds).

If this ad is still up, it is still available!

u/TheSerialHobbyist — 25 days ago

Why don't they make these saws anymore?

This post is partially to show off this saw, because she's so pretty!

But for the actual question: why don't they make these kinds of saws anymore?

I'm referring to both this specific saw (the Hitachi Koki C15FB) and 15-inch miter saws in general. I know the entire industry seems to have moved on to sliding miter saws and those are definitely useful, but not quite in the same was as this.

Seems like a real missed opportunity for the manufacturers...

u/TheSerialHobbyist — 26 days ago

Worth it to upgrade angle grinder?

I was doing some cutting with my angle grinder last night and came to a realization:

I probably use my angle grinder more than any other tool in my shop.

And it is just a cheap Bauer (Harbor Freight) model that I paid like $35 for. It works fine, but it got me thinking about if there is a benefit to upgrading to a nicer one.

So, people who have nice angle grinders, what are the benefits?

I'm probably using cut-off wheels 75% of the time and flap discs the other 25% of the time. It seems like all that matters is that the thing spins, which mine does. But maybe there are benefits I'm not considering?

reddit.com
u/TheSerialHobbyist — 2 months ago

[For Sale] Maggi Best 960 - Industrial Radial Arm Saw ($2,500)

This is Maggi Best 960 radial arm saw in fantastic condition. Built for professional use in industrial cabinet shops.

Made in 2006. Has a 3.7kW (5hp) motor. Runs on 240V (or 480V) three-phase power. For an additional fee, I can set it up with a VFD or rotary phase converter if you only have single-phase power.

Includes a roller feed attachment and blade guard arm system (see photos). Also includes a couple of extra blades.

Located in Phoenix, AZ near I-17 and Greenway. Delivery available in AZ for a fee.

Please feel free to ask any questions you have!

Thanks! - Cameron

u/TheSerialHobbyist — 2 months ago

Hi all!

I just got a 2006 F-450 V10 bucket truck to use as my work truck. I already got the bucket off (you may have seen my post about that) and now I'm trying to sort out the CEL, so I can pass emissions and get it registered.

I'm getting these codes:

  1. P0135 - O2 1, Bank 1 heater control circuit malfunction
  2. P0155 - O2 1, Bank 2 heater control circuit malfunction
  3. P0443 - EVAP canister purge valve circuit malfunction
  4. P1000 - OBD Systems Readiness
  5. B1352 - Ignition Key-In Circuit Failure

(the last two probably aren't important, but I included them just in case).

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Here's the story so far:

When the previous owner had it, someone cut off and stole the cat, along with the downstream O2 sensor. They put a new cat on, but DID NOT replace the O2 sensor (didn't even add a bung).

I bought it thinking that was the issue, with the plan to simply add a bung and downstream O2 sensor.

However, the codes weren't quite making sense for that, so I went ahead and replaced the two upstream O2 sensors and the evap purge valve. That didn't help and the codes remain.

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I have spent a lot of time trying to diagnose and fix the cause of the P0135, P0155, and P0443 codes, as I think they're probably all related. But I have not been able to identify the issue.

All three are getting voltage (~11.8V with key on, ~12.3V with engine running).

There is a ton of aftermarket wiring on this truck from the original upfitter and from previous owners. Potentially, some of that wiring is causing an issue.

One AI (Gemini) thinks wiring is the problem. Another AI (Claude) thinks the alternator is the problem.

Supporting the wiring theory: tons of aftermarket wiring that is hard to trace and identify. Crane removed and wiring to that was cut.

Supporting the alternator theory: batteries are at about 12.4-12.5V. Running the engine and measuring shows the same voltage. O'Reilly alternator testing showed bad diodes (but I'm not convinced they tested properly).

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Before I spend money on an alternator or a dozen more hours tearing my hair out tracing wires, I wanted to see if y'all have any suggestions? Have you seen this code combo before? What makes sense as a potential cause?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!

reddit.com
u/TheSerialHobbyist — 2 months ago